Mod diary for the streetpirate XJ

[streetpirate]

1987 2dr, 4.0, aw4, 231, d44.

this is my planned buildup of my first xj. the goal is to be in the top caliber
of non off road orientated jeeps, and mostly to kill all ricers. this will be done without lowering it, removing 4wd, or putting any kind of bling crap wheels
and such on.


stage one:
bilstein hd shocks
energy suspension poly rebuild kit
15x10 american racing outlaw II w/4in bs
additional rear pack to add on some extra leaves to fix the sag+ higher rate

parts i still need for stage one:
28mm front and 22mm rear sways
poly bushings for the above sways
295/50/15 tires all around
Z28 quick ratio ps box
t-bird front springs(cut 1-1.5 coils to bring 0-1.5 lift in front)
mj shackles if needed to raise rear a bit


stage two: $-still a ways out$
4.6 stroker with m90 supercoupe supercharger
awshifting arcade shifter for aw4
parts to keep everything cool, oiled, blah...
np242 case (4 wheel burnouts)
beefing up everything to handle the power.
maybe a cage.

 

[tealcherokee]

sounds like my jeep.....just not thought out....

lets see..... were going to run 4, 12" wide tires, and expect to do 4 wheel burn outs with 300 horse....

were going to lift the jeep, and run a 26" tall tire

a 15x10 with 4" af backspacing sticks said 12" wide tire about 4" outside the fender

heheheeh, its going to look like a mexican ricer....better order up some 400 spoke 15" wheels.....better yet go with a 13" rim!

do some research...........

 

[Dr. Dyno]

I already have the stroker and I've reduced body roll substantially with urethane bushings. I have a 28mm factory front antisway bar and a factory 16mm rear antisway bar; both have urethane bushings. A thicker rear antisway bar would certainly tighten up the rear some more and eliminate what little understeer I still have left. I also have urethane bushings on the front UCAs and LCAs.
You've elected to go for 295 width tires but I think they'll be much too wide. Firstly they'll stick out from the wheelarches and secondly, you'll have more rolling resistance. Mine are 225/70R15H and I consider them to be already wide enough. I wouldn't mind a set of 17" rims though and shod them with 225/60R17 tires. The lower profile will reduce sidewall flex for even less body roll.
My shocks are Mopar HD gas charged units and they seem to be more than up to the job.
How many turns does the wheel go from full lock on one side to full lock on the other when using the Z28 steering box? What's the turning circle? With the stock XJ box it's 3.4 turns which is already reasonably quick, and the turning circle is impressively tight. The Z28 box would have to be a substantial improvement to make a swap worthwhile. What Z28 model years are we referring to?
The AW4 and the NP242 will not handle the torque of a supercharged stroker so you'd better consider beefier items. There are no upgrades for the AW4 and you'd probably be better off swapping in a 700-R4. Novak Conversions have an adapter kit to make that possible. The NP231 is stronger than the 242 so if you have that, either keep it or swap in the NP242HD from a Dodge truck (much higher torque rating).
The next weak links will be the rear driveshaft universal joints and the rear axle. If you're lucky enough to have a D44 or a Chrysler 8.25, keep it. If you have the D35 (like I do), consider swapping in a D44 or better still, a Ford 8.8.
I've been contemplating the idea of supercharging my stroker but the additional cost of drivetrain upgrades to handle the torque would send the total cost well beyond $5000. Is it worth it? If you don't plan to ever sell your Jeep, perhaps yes. You'd have something unique and special. A real sleeper that'll not only smoke ricers but also leave a few high $$$$ Mercs, BMW's, and Lexuses red faced.

 

[A Satria]

DR, DYNO

I really admire your technical skill in ENGINE related matters :thumbup:

So, its confirm that AW-4 can not be strenghten by any means ?

The following are my engine spec ;
Engine already STROKED to 4.5L, CR around 9.5, Using Programmable Piggy Back attached to standard factory ECU
Dynoed at KSNUSA.com (4 WHEEL Drive dyno test)

• Torque 195 @3100 RPM to 3410 - at WHEEL
• HorsePower 140 @3750 RPM to 3950 - at WHEEL

Is the power within the range of normally modified STROKER ?

What do you think of adding 5-psi of Paxton Supercharge into this engine ?


-Andhi-
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84750

 

[Cjmartz2k]

Mine put down more than that with a modded 4.0L.

 

[Cjmartz2k]

I just noticed that wasa 4 wheel dyno. My test was in 2hi FYI.

 

[Dr. Dyno]

DR, DYNO

I really admire your technical skill in ENGINE related matters :thumbup:

So, its confirm that AW-4 can not be strenghten by any means ?

The following are my engine spec ;
Engine already STROKED to 4.5L, CR around 9.5, Using Programmable Piggy Back attached to standard factory ECU
Dynoed at KSNUSA.com (4 WHEEL Drive dyno test)

• Torque 195 @3100 RPM to 3410 - at WHEEL
• HorsePower 140 @3750 RPM to 3950 - at WHEEL

Is the power within the range of normally modified STROKER ?

What do you think of adding 5-psi of Paxton Supercharge into this engine ?

-Andhi-
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84750

As far as I know, nobody has bothered to manufacture upgrades for the AW4 due to the fact that it has funky electronics and it's probably cheaper to swap in another tranny. There are plenty of beefier trannies out there (like the 700R4) that are relatively inexpensive.
Your HP/TQ numbers are very low even for a 4WD dyno, but I'm curious about why you didn't just go to a 2WD Dynojet. Your Jeep runs in RWD in 2-Hi mode.
You could run any of the centrifugal superchargers (Vortech, Paxton, Powerdyne) but it would have to be a custom installation. Maximum boost of 5psi would be no problem and installation is relatively easy because a centrifugal takes up less space than any other type of supercharger (and turbo). You could also run it without an intercooler, saving you even more underhood space. The only downside is that you're not going to feel a noticeable difference until you reach at least 3000rpm, but that won't matter if your stroker's making abundant torque at lower revs.

 

[tealcherokee]

i agree that your motor is makin almost no power over stock.....

im expecting 250 WHP with my 4.5

 

[A Satria]

As far as I know, nobody has bothered to manufacture upgrades for the AW4 due to the fact that it has funky electronics and it's probably cheaper to swap in another tranny. There are plenty of beefier trannies out there (like the 700R4) that are relatively inexpensive.
Your HP/TQ numbers are very low even for a 4WD dyno, but I'm curious about why you didn't just go to a 2WD Dynojet. Your Jeep runs in RWD in 2-Hi mode.
You could run any of the centrifugal superchargers (Vortech, Paxton, Powerdyne) but it would have to be a custom installation. Maximum boost of 5psi would be no problem and installation is relatively easy because a centrifugal takes up less space than any other type of supercharger (and turbo). You could also run it without an intercooler, saving you even more underhood space. The only downside is that you're not going to feel a noticeable difference until you reach at least 3000rpm, but that won't matter if your stroker's making abundant torque at lower revs.

i agree that your motor is makin almost no power over stock.....

im expecting 250 WHP with my 4.5

Something is definetely wrong here....:rattle:
- it is only overbored to 4.5
- using crankshaft modif only
- Using piggy back
- At the moment, using standard Injector
-BUT NO PERFORMANCE CAMSHAFT installed yet !!!
- What do you suggest for the camshaft ? :thumbup:

• tealcherokee, would you share engine spec with me, as I am so far away for precious information such as this
• DRDYNO, please take me into a higher education level....

if you say that the result you are saying at the WHEEL, then I must have done something very wrong. I'll consult with the DYNO SHOP and get back to you.
So, its confirm that the 2WD at Rear Wheel HP should be around 250HP !!!
What is the standard Torque and HP Figures for 4.0L Standard XJ ?

I have TH-700-R4 from my old 350 engine, but it does not have any electric module. Will it be much better in terms of performance compared to AW-4 ?

I am definetely going to install PAXTON SC in place where the existing battery is. I am going to move the battery to the cavin, using dry Optima. I have a spare performance turbine and pulley, so that I can modify it to generate boost at lower RPM.
Still I would like to have max 5psi boost at engine RPM of 5000.

Would this be OK for the drive train, etc

 

[Cjmartz2k]

- What do you suggest for the camshaft ? :thumbup:

• DRDYNO, please take me into a higher education level....

http://www.jeep4.0performance.4mg.com/

&

http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/stroker.html

 

[A Satria]

http://www.jeep4.0performance.4mg.com/

&

http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/stroker.html

OK,
Guys, what would be the best performance camshaft for STREET Racing Usage ?. Remember that this would be installed in a "LOUZY" AW-4 Automatic transmission.

I dont mind about rough idle, smoke legality, etc. Just give me the number of the best performance camshaft for ;

1. Normal induction system
2. FORCED induction system

Thanks....

 

[tealcherokee]

a rule of thumb is the best cam for turbo apps, is the motors stock cam

that said, im only running 6lbs of boost, maybe way down the road 8 after some serious work, so im running a crane 260/272, its a pretty hot cam, they make one hotter, but you should spend the money on the mopar perf cam 240/240

 

[A Satria]

a rule of thumb is the best cam for turbo apps, is the motors stock cam

that said, im only running 6lbs of boost, maybe way down the road 8 after some serious work, so im running a crane 260/272, its a pretty hot cam, they make one hotter, but you should spend the money on the mopar perf cam 240/240

The mopar perf cam 240/240, is it also good for Supercharger Apps ?

Can I asked you detail questions right here, or should I just PM you....

 

[DeftwillP]

- it is only overbored to 4.5
- using crankshaft modif only

So you got all of your extra displacement by increasing bore only??
You used the stock 4.0 crank??
If thats even possible, I wouldn't add FI or you cylinder walls will blow.

 

[tealcherokee]

The mopar perf cam 240/240, is it also good for Supercharger Apps ?

Can I asked you detail questions right here, or should I just PM you....

with lower boost applications you can run a hotter cam, if you plan on going to the double digits (good luck, the head wont be able to flow it) then your going to want a cooler cam

6 psi out of a blower, 240/240 is the hottest id run

 

[tealcherokee]

he said using crankshaft modifications only....hense NO boring, just a stroker crank, its the same thing i did

 

[Dr. Dyno]

Something is definetely wrong here....:rattle:
- it is only overbored to 4.5
- using crankshaft modif only
- Using piggy back
- At the moment, using standard Injector
-BUT NO PERFORMANCE CAMSHAFT installed yet !!!
- What do you suggest for the camshaft ? :thumbup:

• tealcherokee, would you share engine spec with me, as I am so far away for precious information such as this
• DRDYNO, please take me into a higher education level....

if you say that the result you are saying at the WHEEL, then I must have done something very wrong. I'll consult with the DYNO SHOP and get back to you.
So, its confirm that the 2WD at Rear Wheel HP should be around 250HP !!!
What is the standard Torque and HP Figures for 4.0L Standard XJ ?

I have TH-700-R4 from my old 350 engine, but it does not have any electric module. Will it be much better in terms of performance compared to AW-4 ?

I am definetely going to install PAXTON SC in place where the existing battery is. I am going to move the battery to the cavin, using dry Optima. I have a spare performance turbine and pulley, so that I can modify it to generate boost at lower RPM.
Still I would like to have max 5psi boost at engine RPM of 5000.

Would this be OK for the drive train, etc

I'll assume that you used a stroker (258) crank without overboring the cylinders to reach 4.5L. If you only overbored the cylinders (let's say +0.030") and still have the stock 4.0 crank, your engine's displacement is still going to be only 4.0L.
Since you're still using stock injectors (in a stroker?), the engine will almost certainly be running lean (unless it ISN'T a stroker).
Your choice of camshaft will depend on whether the engine will stay naturally-aspirated or have forced induction. For a NA stroker, the Crane 753905 that I have is probably the best choice, with a wide powerband from idle to redline and great midrange torque. For forced induction, I would suggest the CompCams 68-232-4 (206/212* duration @ 0.050, 0.460/0.476" lift, 113* LSA, 27* valve overlap). The stock cam is OK but there are better and this is one of them.
You didn't say if you have any other performance mods on your Jeep (intake, TB, header, exhaust etc.) so I can't judge if your HP/TQ numbers are within expectation. If your engine only has the 258 crank & rods but is otherwise internally stock (the 9.7:1 CR is the result of the longer stroke) and you have no performance mods, your HP/TQ numbers would make sense.
The 700R4 is stronger than the AW4 and will be able to handle the torque of a supercharged stroker. Maximum boost of 5psi is safe enough.

 

[tealcherokee]

23 spline aw4 is good for about 400 crank HP, after that youll rip up the clutch packs, performance clutch packs, ive read up to 600 horse

your np231/242 should be fine as well, theyre rated for around 1500lb-ft, so if the tranny can hold 400 (say thats what your at) with a 2.8:1 first, thats only like 1100 lb-ft. im running a np249 out of a v8 grand, something like 1800lb-ft

dana 30 should be ok up front, 44 or 8.8 out back would be wise, a 9 if you got the money.

pick your cam wisely, personally i wouldnt run the cam DYNO suggests, it depends on what your looking to do, if your planning on keeping the jeep in the woods a smaller duration cam would give more low end torque. If your building a high revving motor (which i am, revlimitor is going to be set at 6800-7100 depending on the dyno sheets when im done) youll want to run something a little more agressive. i was going to run the 240/240, but i was pushed by a few people who know what theyre doing to go with the 260/272, im still thinking the 240/240 would have been a better choice, time will tell, it was only a $100 cam....

just becareful how crazy you go

 

[BrettM]

The 700R4 is stronger than the AW4

What is your source for that information? Or are you just assuming since the 700r4 was put behind SBCs and the AW4 only behind 6s...?

And performance upgrades ARE available, the Toyota version of the tranny is often modded for the Supra guys running 500+ hp. Contact Level 10 (www.levelten.com) for that.

 

[A Satria]

I'll assume that you used a stroker (258) crank without overboring the cylinders to reach 4.5L. If you only overbored the cylinders (let's say +0.030") and still have the stock 4.0 crank, your engine's displacement is still going to be only 4.0L.
Since you're still using stock injectors (in a stroker?), the engine will almost certainly be running lean (unless it ISN'T a stroker).

Your choice of camshaft will depend on whether the engine will stay naturally-aspirated or have forced induction. For a NA stroker, the Crane 753905 that I have is probably the best choice, with a wide powerband from idle to redline and great midrange torque. For forced induction, I would suggest the CompCams 68-232-4 (206/212* duration @ 0.050, 0.460/0.476" lift, 113* LSA, 27* valve overlap). The stock cam is OK but there are better and this is one of them.

You didn't say if you have any other performance mods on your Jeep (intake, TB, header, exhaust etc.) so I can't judge if your HP/TQ numbers are within expectation. If your engine only has the 258 crank & rods but is otherwise internally stock (the 9.7:1 CR is the result of the longer stroke) and you have no performance mods, your HP/TQ numbers would make sense.

The 700R4 is stronger than the AW4 and will be able to handle the torque of a supercharged stroker. Maximum boost of 5psi is safe enough.

1. YES, I use a stroker (258) crank without overboring the cylinders to reach 4.5L.
2. Injectors, will be replaced
3. Camshaft, I got your point
4. If your engine only has the 258 crank & rods but is otherwise internally stock, YUP, that is it :explosion .... you guys should know how difficult it is to get such parts from the US.... However, I am working on it based on your guys advise !
5. What should I do in regards of additional modif (intake, TB, header, exhaust etc.)

Thanks

-Andhi (Jakarta, INDONESIA)