Milton's Other Jeep Build

[JeepN4kc]

On to the next project - which proved to be a complete PITA! :thumbdown:
Installing the hitch.
First thing I had to do was muscle wrench the old nutstrip out. Just 2 bolts on the tailpipe hanger - they did not want to come out:

But I made them - with the help of a 3' piece of square tubing as a breaker bar:

Primed and painted the nutstrips:

While that dried I prepped the mounting bolts w/ anti-sieze:

Then fit them in. This pic is the driver side for orientation (took me a little to figure this out):

I used my 7 year old daugher, my floor jack, a scrap piece of 2x4, and a lot of sweat and cuss words to get the hitch, nutstrips, unirail, fuel heat shield, tailpipe hanger, blah, blah, blah to line up and torque down. It sucked! Had to cut about half a foot off the exhaust tailpipe in order to fit with the hitch. But - I made it happen:

I have a Smittybilt 10K lb hitch shackle and locking hitch pin enroute from Amazon (gotta love Amazon). Should be in tomorrow via free shipping. :thumbsup: So - rear recovery point is covered.

 

[JeepN4kc]

And so this morning is where things took a drastic turn.
I popped the rear diff cover to swap in fresh gear oil and give these welded spider gears a looksee. Not good.

That pic might not show it - but the welds are cracked:
Look upper-left/lower-right:

Lower-left/upper-right:

I started a thread over in the XJ tech sub-forum (along with and my local Jeep club) did some searching on the www, and talked with a guy from one of the area 4x4 shops. Looks like I will likely start stacking the deck in the piggy bank for a true locker swap of the entire carrier. The R&P look good to go so I think I found this ticking time bomb before it went off.
Well - this build is definately in a holding pattern for now (and I haven't even wheeled it yet). I'll update when there's updating to be done. Feel free to comment, bash, admire, whatever...and until next time...................

 

[JeepN4kc]

My last post I said everything came to a screeching halt. (Good thing I didn't literally do just that from the diff blowing up). Well.........guy in the brown truck brought the finishing touch for the rear recovery:

I had to lube the receiver with WD40 and give it a couple good whacks w/ a bfh so I really don't think I needed the locking hitchpin - because nobody is pulling it out of the receiver by hand.

So............now I have to start building funds.............

 

[JeepN4kc]

So............that is where the XJ is as of now.

I've decided to sideline the XJ to the garage until I can work enough OT to save up for a fix. I'm planning on either a Detroit autolocker or Trutrac as this would replace the whole carrier. Sucks because this is something I wasn't looking at addressing till further down the road - but the road just got ALOT shorter. If money works out I will regear it now while this is getting done (4.56's) - currently has stock 3.55's. I've done a ton of research on diff reassembly and regearing and with preloads, backlash, pinion depth, contact patterns, etc., etc, this is way over my skill set and toolbox. If anyone is in my neck of the woods and has the skills and tools to help me with a wrench-a-thon to do this please give me a shout - as I would GREATLY appreciate the help. Otherwise, I'm looking at hauling it out to 4x4Land (Topeka, KS) when the time comes - I've heard awesome things about their shop and have seen some of their work in action on the trails.

 

[JeepN4kc]

After spending some time yesterday on the world wide internets I came to the conclusion that something was worth a try:

I was able to bust up the welds enough to rotate all the internals out of the carrier :2thumbsup:
I put all the pieces in individual baggies with labels so I know where all the washers go if I need them:

So far as my research goes.......I should be able to pop a lunchbox locker into this open carrier:

Very excited about this :cheers2: as it changes everything I was thinking had to come next..........for the better.............:cheers2:

 

[jonesinxj]

Very nice build and attn to detail!

 

[JeepN4kc]

^^^ Much appreciated - thanks!

I'd given this some thought the other day and decided today I would go ahead and replace the old rear axle bearings and seals. They aren't necessarily showing signs of wear but they do have over 115K miles on them. Since the XJ is currently out of commission on jack stands with the differential torn down and axles pulled from the pumkin - I figured why not swap them now. Seems like the perfect time, since otherwise it being a c-clip axle means dropping the diff cover, draining the oil, removing crosspin, removing c-clips, pulling axle shafts ..........then having to put it all back together.
First I pulled the axles all the way out to expose the seals and access the bearings:

Then laid out my supplies and tools. A slide hammer with bearing puller attachment made this job EASY. I rented the tool from O'Reilly's and most any auto parts store has a tool rental program. The rental was by far the most expensive part but once you return it you get your credit back.
2 seals
2 bearings
Axle/bearing grease

If you're replacing the bearings and seals you don't need to pull the seals first with a ring seal pulluer/tool because they both come out together with the slide hammer attachment. Insert the bearing puller, attach the slide hammer, and have at it:

Be sure to wipe down the inside rim of the axle tube real well to clear away any debris, oil, or grease before reseating the new bearings and seals. If the inside lip of the axle tube is scratched up or marred you might consider some rtv around the sides of the seals or directly to the inside lip of the tube.
I packed the bearings with some grease so they are prelubed before I get around to refilling the diff/axle with oil:

Carefully tap the new bearings in - they will come to a "seat" so don't worry about pushing them too far into the axle tube. I used the head of a rubber mallet that fit into the tube opening and the blunt end of a punch to set against the bearing and hit those to push the bearing in place. You can use just about anything that won't damage or marr the bearing case. Getting the seal in to cap over the bearing was more of a challenge for me. I used the old seal and bearing to hit against in order to seat the seal.

And there ya have it - new bearings and seals await the reinstall of my axle shafts. This took maybe 30-40 minutes on the conservative side and cost me about 30 bucks for the bearings, seals, and grease. I might put a thin smear of rtv on the outter edge of the seal/tube interface for good measure but I'll probably wait untill all this rear axle is up and running to see if it's even needed.
Until next time..............

 

[Jumbojeep1992]

Did you ever find out what the whistle/whine was coming from?

 

[JeepN4kc]

Did you ever find out what the whistle/whine was coming from?

Not yet. I was running the engine the other day just to let it get up to temp and give it a listen. I can't be sure but it really sounds like the pitch is coming from the alternator. I crawled under to give it a look and it has some cracks in the ribs/vents on the front side of alt and just generally looks "burned" up for lack of a better word. I'd say it has to be either the alt or the a/c comp/clutch. Been thinkin of runnin to a pick&pull or I know a guy parting out for an alt. to swap out - $20-$30 depending on which I buy from - probably worth the swap:dunno:

 

[Outlander560]

nice build I like the color (same as mine) haha. What size are those km2's?

oh and you can do without the REAR sway bar. Definitly keep the front one, but the rear can go your rear articulation will improve greatly

 

[JeepN4kc]

nice build I like the color (same as mine) haha. What size are those km2's?

oh and you can do without the REAR sway bar. Definitly keep the front one, but the rear can go your rear articulation will improve greatly

Thanks, man - 33x12.5x15 KM2's - they are pretty killer IMO. The steelies have 3.75" bs-ing so no clearance issues.

I plan on the rear sway delete - as far as the front - PO took that out.
People say w/o sways the rig will be unstable. I say I don't plan on taking corners at 40 mph and probably won't see hiway miles............

 

[Outlander560]

it's a nice looking tire...me just being me i'd keep the front sway bar but like you said no highway miles so you'll be ok. What is next in store for this ole gal? I just regeared mine to 4.88s from 4.56 with my 33s and i love it.

 

[JeepN4kc]

^^^ Well, I gotta pull the trigger on a locker to go in the rear carrier (most likely going with an Aussie) and I'm looking for a used set of diff covers. Otherwise I'll just order direct from Solid Axle Industries - I have one on the rear of my WK, like it, and they're priced well. Regearing is something I would like to do (4.56's) but that will have to wait because setting up gears is something I'll probably have to pay a reputable shop to do and will probably coincide with a selectable front locker (big money item with that combo). I need to get a fuel tank skid under it and I also plan to get some unibody stiffeners from TnT Customs to mate up with the belly pan I have sittin in the garage.

Plus, I think I'm gonna find a good working used alternator to swap out.
So, lots of plans. Not alotta $'s. But it's a project/toy so time is on my side as I don't need it on a daily basis.

 

[JeepN4kc]

Started the XJ up and let it run to bring up to temp today. I used the ol' long screwdriver-to-the-ear trick and pinpointed the source of the engine whine.
Def coming from the alternator (as I suspected all along). :shhh:
I also ordered a few items today :cheers:

Dana 30 Solid Axle Industries diff cover
Chrysler 8.25 Solid diff cover
Aussie Locker for the 8.25 29sp

Got good deals on all 3 - buy direct from S.A.I. for great deals on diff covers
and I got the Aussie from Rockridge4WD.com (a vendor on JF that gave me the best deal I could find). :thumbsup:

Can not wait for this stuff to arrive................:woohoo:

 

[JeepN4kc]

Found out last night my Aussie and Solid diff covers were delivered.:clap: Naturally, while I'm on duty. Older daughter said the dog chewed up the boxes so hope he didn't ruin anything.
Gotta try and get this put together today or tomorrow so I'll see how the install goes.............:dunno: and try to get a write up posted on this thread.

 

[JeepN4kc]

Had a bunch of stuff goin on today - but I managed to find time for some stuff on the XJ.
First part of the day I laid out the diff covers and added a little touch. Did this to the WK diff cover and liked it - so why not repeat. Just some Rustoleum touch-up and then a few coats of clear. I'd heard tell of premature rust on these Solid diff covers back when I did the WK so figured some added protection couldn't hurt:

It was later towards evening when I got back to the Jeep so I popped the fronf diff cover, drained it, hit it good with brake cleaner. This gave me look at the front internals, ring, and pinion gears - everything looks good to go. I also see why a lunchbox in the D30 requires pulling the carrier - the center pin won't clear the ring gear:

Let it dry and squeezed a bead of rtv on the cover:

Let that skin over a couple minutes then lightly bolted the cover on:

Let it sit about 20 minutes while I straightened up the garage and put stuff up then came back and torqued it down in a star pattern to 30ft/lbs:

Now - anybody that knows me or my WK build knows I dig the stickers
So, while I was straightening up I added some character to the XJ:

That was good for the day. Tomorrow comes the real adventure as the plan is to install the Aussie in the rear 8.25 :looney:

 

[JeepN4kc]

I got the Aussie installed today :guitar:

Start with all the supplies and tools:

Instruction manual
Aussie locker parts from box
Original side gear washers
Original c-clips
Carrier center pin (I picked up a new one since the original was fairly worn)
Feeler gauges
Shop towels
Coffee
Tobacco
Flat head screw drivers (small & large)
8mm open end box wrench and socket
More shop towels
Soft mallet
something to drive center pin in/out (I used a ratchet)
I had my axles all the way out for a bearing/seal redo so first thing I had to do was re-insert my axle shafts:

Next - grease the teeth of the axle gears and the back (or outboard side) and place the washers to the outboard side of the gears. The grease will hold the washers:

Then put the axle gears in the carrier and the spacers to the axle gears - again, grease is your friend as it acts like a glue to stick the parts together:

Insert the center pin and usea flathead screwdriver to push the spacers outward toward the axles. Then use feeler gauges to measure the clearance between the center pin ad the spacers:

Check the manual for the proper spacing. I realized the gauge used in this pic wasn't the right one to be checking with - so pay close attention to what the manual reads. Then - record your spacing on the back of the manual. This is critical because if a problem arises the warranty is void without proper spacing and documentation. My spacing was .008:

Once you get the spacing recorded pull the center pin back out and the spacers:

 

[JeepN4kc]

Next - grease the teeth of the cam gears, the inside diameter of the cam gears, the slots and holes for the pins and springs, the springs and pins themselves, and set the spacers in the cam gears oriented so they will "cap" over the axle ends. Also, set the pins in the slots with the "step" going into the slot first:

Next - push the driver side axle through the driver axle gear and set the c-clip:

Then press the driver cam gear against the axle gear and seat the spacer over the axle/c-clip:

Then push the passenger axle into the axle gear, set the cam gear against the driver cam gear and orient the "slot" to insert the passenger c-clip. With the c-clip in place push the passenger spacer to "cap" over the axle/c-clip. Then press the passenger cam gear against the passenger axle gear:

Orient the two cam gears so the center pin holes, and pin/spring slot/holes line up. Use a small flathead to slide the pins across the slots and into the holes. Then, set the springs in place with one end seating on the now exposed "step" and the other in the outboard side of the slots:

Once this is done measure the spacing between the two cam gears:
And again - check the manual for specs and record it. Mine was .165:

It is now installed:

But not done. Now it's time for the "spin" test. The manual explains in detail how this is to be performed - but a trick I used to hold the one side in position was to chock the tire with the mallet while I spun the opposite tire. The cam gears should "click" and allow the tire to spin in the opposite direction of the chocked tire:

Don't forget to record this step was done:

 

[JeepN4kc]

Once this is done it's time to button up the rear diff:

Once the diff cover is back on and fresh gear oil is put it the diff - take your new rear locked XJ out for a spin. It will be a clickety-clack SOB on turns but after a while you'll get used to how to drive with your new more capable XJ :yelclap:
This took about 2 hours from start to putting the diff cover on. I took my time, followed the manual EXACTLY, and kept my hands clean so I could take pics. It is as they say - easy as changing brakes.
Good luck to anybody wanting to do this and I hope the write-up is helpfull! :flipoff:

 

[JeepN4kc]

I also received my $100 pre-paid Visa card in the mail from Discount Tire Direct while I was finishing up the install. :spin1: This day just kept getting better.



Once I was done with the install and refilled the front and rear diffs with fresh gear oil it was time to take the XJ for a spin. I drove around the block some and then decided to hit a place around the corner. It's an undeveloped housing edition - so nothing special - but got to play a little:

Back in business baby! :cheers:
Until next time...................