Mean Green's baseline dyno

gradon

gradon

NAXJA Forum User
Location
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SRT in Beltsville, MD was having a dyno day and my friends were going to test their Camry 3.0l v6 swapped mr2s out(I spent 15 hours P&Pin the heads, intake, and exhaust manifolds of one of them). 2 runs for $40 or 3 for $50 per car--I bargained for 2 runs each for my XJ and m3 for $70. I was hoping for a little more, but at least it's putting to the ground what the 4.0 was rated at the crank(psc1 is disco'd):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sCuWHpnmoFU&feature=player_embedded
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wNGcES_nkJA&feature=related
m3:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=raX24zx0WA4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hOt9JKbtd6k&feature=related
 
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I'm using the 81-86 long-snout 4-weight 4.2 crank, 4.2 rods, Sealed Power H802cp30 pistons(.030" over), ported and polished head, mopar 30ab cam, Sealed Power rockers(stock style), Borla header, 2.5" Magnaflow muffler, 2.5" mandrel-bent ss tailpipe, 63mm TB, K&N FIPK with Amsoil eaau3090 filter, 99+ intake manifold that has been ported&injector bosses smoothed, 6-pintle LT1 injectors that flow ~25.5#@49psi. I'll be able to pick up some power once I spend a couple hours with my brother road tuning the PSC1. Those 18.5:1 AFRs in closed loop are unacceptable(pcm should be maintaining 14.7:1, but can't, or else is too slow; gonna buy a new o2 sensor), and the afrs should be a steady 12.5-.8:1 the whole time the pedal is mashed(was told by one of the techs that the clamp-on tailpipe wideband reads .25-.5 higher than it is at the main o2).
 
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In the torque department, yes, but you as can see, the m3 was putting down 28 more whp(221 vs 193). They didn't want to rip the m3's coil harness to use the induction clamp, which is why the rpms and torque weren't measured, but it's probably between 210-220wtq.
 
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I wore out the auburn lsd during that 2-week Snowpocalypse last year--was out having fun almost everyday in my 2wd. When I got the replacement(they have a good diff exchange program), I ditched the 3.55s for 4.10s. The 255/60/15s are 27", so it pulls pretty hard. . .
 
I just picked up a 94 2 door with a blown engine for free, I was debating a 4.3 or sbc swap, or just going the easy route and building a stroker so it will still pass smog. after watching the way that thing wakes up above 2k I think i'll go the stroker route :D
 
96 2dr 2wd ax15 w/ac SE stripper(my 4th: 88, 92, 94). No pw, pl, rear defrost, rear wiper, or tach(have 125mph euro cluster now). I commented on the off-topic top-speed thread but not the one in this section--it hit 136mph with the 3.55s (paced by my bro on his yzf600) and probably would've hit 140 if I felt like waiting for 20 more seconds, lol(hits the aerodynamic wall at 120). Bumper is off since I needed access to whack the hb back on after the stock timing set destructed(have a rollmaster 7100 now)--needs to be painted too.
edit: for all that have ax15s, one word: Hurst.
edit 2: I highly recommend a stroker over a chevy transplant and if you really want more power, then follow Bryson's line of thinking. . .
 
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I'm going to disco the cts, which forces the pcm into full-time OL, keeps the stock location e-fan on, which will trigger a relay to turn on the 2nd e-fan, and do a full map tune of the psc1. I don't care about the "high input cts" CEL that will be caused if it's getting the proper gas it needs.
 
gradon said:
edit 2: I highly recommend a stroker over a chevy transplant and if you really want more power, then follow Bryson's line of thinking. . .
Click to expand...

:cheers:

I have a stroker plan already mapped out. Hopefully one day I can actually afford to build it. Somethin like a 4.7L, forged internals, with Hesco's aluminum head. :rolleyes:
 
Boostwerks.com said:
:cheers:

I have a stroker plan already mapped out. Hopefully one day I can actually afford to build it. Somethin like a 4.7L, forged internals, with Hesco's aluminum head. :rolleyes:
Click to expand...
Hey now were talking. That's my exact plan as of right now. I'm shooting for 300+ on a 4.7L stroker. People tell me it's impossible and it only makes me want to do it more. I'm absolutly positive I can do it. My biggest problem is dishing out the coin for the Hesco head. I have a 0331 head sitting here that will most likley get ported and put on first. From there I'll see how far I really am away from my mark. Once I hit 300 at the crank I'm shooting for 300 at the wheels. :laugh3:

Oh on a sidenote, speaking of forged internals, you should check out Bulltear Industries and their new forged pistons.
 
Nice job. What's a stock 4.0 put down, about 140-145? So you have a good 30% over stock (assume comparable dynos).


On the power debate, here's my take:
Stroker is the easiest and cheapest, good for about what you show: 30%
Turbo on a stock block is next, good for about 50%
If building the engine for a turbo you may get up to 100%. Stroking doesn't really help with max boosted power, and at this point a v8 swap starts to break even.
 
norcalchris said:
Hey now were talking. That's my exact plan as of right now. I'm shooting for 300+ on a 4.7L stroker. People tell me it's impossible and it only makes me want to do it more. I'm absolutly positive I can do it. My biggest problem is dishing out the coin for the Hesco head. I have a 0331 head sitting here that will most likley get ported and put on first. From there I'll see how far I really am away from my mark. Once I hit 300 at the crank I'm shooting for 300 at the wheels. :laugh3:

Oh on a sidenote, speaking of forged internals, you should check out Bulltear Industries and their new forged pistons.
Click to expand...

The head is expensive, but the added detonation resistance of an aluminum head is worth it for me. I'd feel comfortable running 15lbs of boost all day long on a 9.5CR with 91 octane if tuned well. The added stroke, CR, and detonation resistance would allow me to target 400whp under boost with a potentially better-than-stock MPG when I stay out of it.

I'm partial to CP pistons however. :cheers:
 
The engine I'm working on now is for my brother in the '88 eliminator that I'm giving him(he helped pay for my 96 and helped me with my stroker build). It's a 505 roller cam based motor that will be 4.9l with their 4.060" stroke nitrated crank w/ +.060" 34cc dish ceramic-coated tops, nitrated-skirt ross forged pistons, 6.125" eagle forged rods, and will have a SCR of 8.75:1 pre-boost, lol. Here's the link with some pics: http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1355
edit: my brother says he'll weld his own exhaust mani, but like I told you a year or so ago when you were in your design phase, Bryson, we might be giving you a call.
edit 2: my lowered grocery getter still can go over curbs and medians, and as stated earlier, still kicks @$$ in the snow. It is perfect for the urban carfare environment.
 
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I will make it down to your neck of the woods--MIR--once the psc1 is tuned. I think it has the potential to be at the 13-14s borderline. I'm auto-xing the m3 at Blue Crab on Sat.
 
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