Mean Green for a 1999 XJ

ratoutjian

NAXJA Forum User
I've read several forums on H.O. alternators. The mean green 140A seems to be well thought of but high priced. I've searched for one but all the suppliers list the alternator as available only up to the 1998 year. I've got a 1999 XJ. Anyone know why the '99 and up years are excluded? Does anyone sell a mean green for a 1999?
Thanks,
Robert
 
99 and up used a 117 amp alternator whereas the pre 99 used a 90 amp. So your stock 99 is only 20 amps short of the mean green. This is according to a parts search so, let me know if I'm mistaken.
 
You've got a couple of other options...

1) Get an alternator for a late Durango. Up around 136A Max output, but you do have to modify the mounting slightly (some grinding is required - but I don't recall how much or what.) Most other later ChryCo trucks should also work - nearly all of them use a Nippondenso alternator (identifiable by the "ND" cast into the rear bearing boss.)

2) Other vendors. Powerman wants to come to mind, and others if you search. Also, you can use the shop I've been using - click the link in my sig, and go to San Jose Generator. (Yes, I know the images are goofy. I'll work on that to-morrow...) Rod does good work, and I've been using him for years (typically, only when I buy a new rig or do a job for someone else have I had to replace his parts. The best warranty is one you don't need - and I've not needed his in the last ten years...)

I think the 1999-up units are "clocked" differently (different relative location of the terminals on the backside WRT the mounting,) which is easily fixable. It's like having to reclock the old Delco SI units - four possible positions, and you can change from one to another in about two minutes with a 5/16" nutdriver. You may want to ask Rod to be sure (if you decide to call him,) but that's mainly what I'm thinking at the moment. I'm working on getting solid information...
 
coastie124 said:
99 and up used a 117 amp alternator whereas the pre 99 used a 90 amp. So your stock 99 is only 20 amps short of the mean green. This is according to a parts search so, let me know if I'm mistaken.

If you've got access to the parts books, could you double-check something for me? My 2000 has a 124-amp alternator per the build sheet, but this doesn't seem to be very common. My thinking is that it was combined with the tow group; if you could verify this for me (and grab the part number for the 124-amp unit), I'd much appreciate it.
 
casm said:
If you've got access to the parts books, could you double-check something for me? My 2000 has a 124-amp alternator per the build sheet, but this doesn't seem to be very common. My thinking is that it was combined with the tow group; if you could verify this for me (and grab the part number for the 124-amp unit), I'd much appreciate it.

No parts book just an 1999 alt and autozone.com. Did a quick search, and it seems that the build sheets say 124amp alt and they really have 117 amp alts in them. Best way would be to look at the back of yours and see what it says.

As far as upgrades I would imagine you could get one off a late model dodge truck or Grand Cherokee and it would probably have more amps. Don't know how the compatiblity would work out, worth looking into if you could pick one up from the junkyard and save yourself a few hundred dollars. I personally think the mean green alts are way over priced for what your getting. 150 amps isn't that much of an increase. There are all sorts of stock vehicles that run 160 amp alts.
 
I Still have the original window sticker for my 99 sport and it lists a 124 amp alternator as standard equipment, build date 3/99. hope that helps.
 
As far as the wiring goes, (5-90) can the stock battery wiring harness from the donor vehicle be used? The inline fuse will need to be higher and the cable gauges are gonna need to be thicker, so I was thinking if I pulled a 136a off a dodge pick up, I could just take as much of the battery wiring as I could and replace my stock wiring because ti would have a larger inline fuse. Does that sound right? any one?
 
nyxj42 said:
I Still have the original window sticker for my 99 sport and it lists a 124 amp alternator as standard equipment, build date 3/99. hope that helps.

Would someone with a 124 amp alt listed on their build sheet please see what alt you actually have installed on the vehicle. I've heard that they are really 117 max.

I've also heard that the stock wiring harness is lacking somehow and that simple wiring upgrades can net you more output.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
the problems with the stock wiring harness can be remedied by fabricating heavier gauge cables for the battery/starter, alternator/battery ground, head/firewall ground strap etc. or, just buy a set from 5-90, they are priced reasonably and it seems too convenient to me...
 
If you have a Classic or Limited, you probably have the 124 amp. alt. I have one, and I've confirmed it by looking at the tag on the back of the alternator. I used a telescoping mirror to see it because there was snow on the ground at the time. Part number 56041822AA, minimum output of 90 amps. Mitchell Manuals lists that p.n. as Wrangler only, but there it sits in my engine bay.

P.n. 56005684AB is a typical higher-output XJ alternator rated at 117A max. and 88A min.
 
Dunno, but I am running a Mean Green alternator on my 00 XJ.....works just fine...had to grind a bit of the mount away to make it bolt up right, but other than that, works great.....
 
selarep said:
As far as the wiring goes, (5-90) can the stock battery wiring harness from the donor vehicle be used? The inline fuse will need to be higher and the cable gauges are gonna need to be thicker, so I was thinking if I pulled a 136a off a dodge pick up, I could just take as much of the battery wiring as I could and replace my stock wiring because ti would have a larger inline fuse. Does that sound right? any one?

Most of the OEM wiring on the donor vehicle will probably be about the same size as what you've got now - 8AWG. The alternator output lead might be heavier - but ChryCo was notoriously cheap on wiring, and that didn't change after the merger with Daimler/Benz. So, you'd want to upgrade the alternator output lead and the fuse/fusible link - but no need to change the rest for something that won't net much of an improvement.

Most of the later-model ChryCos seem to have gone back to fusible link wire anyhow - and have you tried to find fusible link wire larger than 14AWG? I've been at it for a bit, and it's not the easiest stuff going to find... "If I had my 'druthers I'd screw a chimpanzee," is how the song went (I think.) That's why I suggest (and offer) using an ANL fuse - they're easier to find, easier to replace, and you can get them in various ratings.
 
5-90 said:
....................................

I think the 1999-up units are "clocked" differently (different relative location of the terminals on the backside WRT the mounting,) which is easily fixable. It's like having to reclock the old Delco SI units - four possible positions, and you can change from one to another in about two minutes with a 5/16" nutdriver. You may want to ask Rod to be sure (if you decide to call him,) but that's mainly what I'm thinking at the moment. I'm working on getting solid information...


Any solid info on this yet? Is it a simple fix like you describe?

TIA Darren
 
LynchMob said:
Any solid info on this yet? Is it a simple fix like you describe?

TIA Darren

Not yet - I've been occupied with medical matters (MIL) of late.

Thinking on the subject, I think that the alternator output stud guard is also a bit different - but that can usually just be replaced by switching the guard on from the old unit. I also plan to look into finding simple "flat" guard for the stud - since that will also make it easier to use a larger wire for the output lead (as it stands, the "channel" guard has to be modified slightly.)

I've got a catalogue with illustrations, so I just need to pry loose the time to sit down with it.
 
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