MAP vacuum line

2stix

NAXJA Forum User
Location
fallbrook Ca.
does anyone know how much vacuum i should have at the throttle body of an 89 4.0? i think i may have a bad vacuum line going from the throttle body to the MAP sensor. i am getting low readings. lower than other vacuum sources. i am fighting a low idle issue, but even when i raise the idle manually i still get low vacuum readings from the end of the line towards the MAP. when i take it from the throttle body direct i get a little higher readings. at low idle (maybe 300 400 rpm) i am only getting 10. if i rev it up it only rises a couple points if that. i read somewhere here (Rags post) that the MAP needs a min of 16.1 for it to go into closed loop.
 
How many inches of vacuum at the intake manifold?
 
15 at the manifold. 10 at the MAP end of the line. close to 15 at the throttle body. just not sure if the plastic line is SUPPOSED to lower the vacuum or not.
 
Haven't checked my vacuum in a while, but my vac line had a couple breaks in it, patched up with electrical tape. Picked up some vac tubing from work (carquest) to replace the "main" part of it.
 
I replaced the line on my MJ with a section of brake tubing. No more crack for me.
 
thanks for the fix techniques, but what i am looking for is the actual number. how many inches of vacuum does the renix 4.0 need to run properly. any renix guys out there want to take a quick test and post some findings?
 
17 to 21 inches of vacuum at idle. Higher the elevation, the lower the vacuum. My Jeeps have about 16.5 inches at 55000 feet per the MAP sensor reading through the DRB tester.

While disconnected, what does your vacuum gauge read. I'm wondering if it may be faulty.
 
perfect, thanks cruiser54. that was the info i was looking for. my gauge is good, but like anything it can allways fail. i will check with a different gauge, but i have a feeling it is correct. i mentioned in another thread about my low idle issue that i had borrowed a DRB tester a while back and your post above reminded me that i did test the vacuum at the MAP and it was around 15 in. i will double check my paper work on that. my old school ways lead me to believe the 15 in. was good enough. but i guess with these renix systems we need more. the guy i borrowed the tester from is a retired jeep tech and knows quite a bit about the renix. and he posted on a thread something about the MAP needing atleast 16.1 in. vacuum to work properly. my compression checks where actually a little higher than normal (165lbs mostly) on this 245k mile engine. but now that i have found a low vacuum reading i will do a leak down test to check ring seal percentage. it may be time to either rebuild or swap for a used engine.
 
17 to 21 inches of vacuum at idle. Higher the elevation, the lower the vacuum. My Jeeps have about 16.5 inches at 55000 feet per the MAP sensor reading through the DRB tester.

While disconnected, what does your vacuum gauge read. I'm wondering if it may be faulty.

55000 feet? Where do you live? :cheers:
 
Just an opinion from a guy with a motor way more tired than yours. The lower the vacuum the higher the output from the MAP. The highest vacuum is at idle, when you have the highest restriction and again when you hit a sweet spot in the RPM band with a constant throttle and load.

The only thing I normally use a vacuum guage for is testing valve seal, the needle should be steady and have no pulsing.

The narrowest part of the TB after the IAC is likely to be the highest true vacuum.

Vacuum is relative and constantly changing with throttle plate position, RPM (cam) motor trim and where you measure it on the intake.

Constant low (or high) idle on a hot and cold motor is likely the TPS, either the ground or the signal somewhere in the wiring between the TPS and the ECU. Try changing the TPS adjustment incrementally and see if it changes your idle (after testing the ground). I found the best spot for mine is somewhere between where the book says the tranny half of the TPS should be set and the stick shift adjustment of 0.08 volts on the ECU half of the TPS. My butt dyno says I get decent shifts and a decent idle.

Low idle on a hot motor, try unplugging the O2 sensor and see what happens. One of the things the ECU is going to try and do is supply enough oxygen to the CAT for a good catalytic reaction, sometimes the programming compromises the fuel/air mix and it screws with the idle.

Again just an opinion, the programming in the ECU isn't perfect, It isn't going to deal effectively with any and all inputs and circumstances. They did a pretty good job programming it, but not perfect. I'm fairly anal about most things, but have learned to compromise some with my Renix. I never have gotten a 600 RPM idle, it idles at 500, thumps like a metronome and never misses a beat, I'm happy. My biggest issue was a ground splice for the TPS between the bend at the firewall and the connector, the splice is inside the harness sheath. I had a (ground) splice that was never crimped and the wires were just laying in there, ohm test good. As soon as I cleaned and soldered that splice my idle stabilized at 500 and my 2000 RPM hot starts disappeared.

I used a drill bit to clean out the MAP orifice on the TB and regularly check out the TB to MAP vacuum line. My method is to plug one end of the line with my finger, suck until I get a good vacuum and vacuum glue the end of the line to my tongue, If the vacuum releases you have an issue.
 
well i think i may have found my problem. did a leak down test on a warm engine and got 15% on #2/#3/#5/and #6 cylinders. #1 had 27% leak down, and #4 had 30% leak down. it was getting dark but for the most part it seemed they were all leaking into the crank case. i am going to do another check in the morning but will have to be on a cold engine and double check my findings, and do a better listen for where the leak down is on #1 and #4. i do have a spare engine from an 87 that has 135K miles on the meter so i will do a leak down on that one and see if it is in good enough condition to do a swap. otherwise i may have to do a rebuild later when i can save some cash.
no wonder i couldn't get this thing to run right.
 
Back
Top