Making the frame purdy

[RCP Phx]

I broke a M10 drill bit into the port hole when trying to tap the hole for the ACOS spacers...FML!

How would I go about getting this out? Drill it? If so what # bit should I use? I am concerned that if I use too large of a bit, I may run the risk of messing up the threads and won't be able to re-tap...How do I fix this and do it right?...because if I dont I will have to cut and weld a new bump stop tube thing...and I dont have the time or $ for that at the moment.

How much if any is sticking out? How thick is the material?

 

[DirtySouthXJ]

How much if any is sticking out? How thick is the material?

^ this. That is going to dictate how you can attack the situation. If enough protrudes you can try grabbing it with pliers and reversing it out. If not enough to grab, you can try super gluing/epoxying an extension on to try and reverse it out. You can try expanding the material around it with heat and pulling it out. What is the bit made of? It may be able to be struck and shattered like a stuck tap.

 

[Xjin85]

^ this. That is going to dictate how you can attack the situation. If enough protrudes you can try grabbing it with pliers and reversing it out. If not enough to grab, you can try super gluing/epoxying an extension on to try and reverse it out. You can try expanding the material around it with heat and pulling it out. What is the bit made of? It may be able to be struck and shattered like a stuck tap.

How much if any is sticking out? How thick is the material?

There is nothing sicking out. Maybe .5mm of 1/4 of initial material. Just a tiny nub. lol

I went in there with some needle nose and try to use that small little piece on the lip as leverage to unscrew it. There seems to be playing there, but I can’t keep the rotation consistent.

I’ll take a picture of it in a few minutes and posted.

I was doing some research and found a couple of different tools that may work.

I found this cool tools that looks like they may work in this application.

https://www.waltontools.com/how-to-remove-broken-taps/

Tap extractor

Temo Broken Tap extractor


Usually I would just go to town on it and drill it out with a normal vent. But this is something that I need to do right the first time as it’s very delicate. If I don’t get it right, I’m gonna have to cut that two bath and re-weld one. Which I can’t do at this time. So it’s so crucial that I get this right.

Anyways, today, I start painting with the RP- 342!

Today is the only day I have with the nice weather and no rain so I got up early.

 

[RCP Phx]

Those are tap extractors and you stated it was 10mm drill bit? For a drill bit I would weld a small nut on it to get it to spin back out. How thick is the metal?

 

[Bent]

Tap sockets are your best defense against tap extractors.

Top extractor's work well with plenty of penetrant, working the tap in and out. If the tap is shattered, a punch and a chisel is good for getting to the portion of the tap that you can use and extractor on.

I've never had one break where I was fortunate enough to be able to weld something to it. FUBAR or go home.

 

[Xjin85]

Those are tap extractors and you stated it was 10mm drill bit? For a drill bit I would weld a small nut on it to get it to spin back out. How thick is the metal?

Thats actually a great idea but I don't have a welder. I may have to ask my buddy to come over with his. Do you mean the thickness of the tap?

Tap sockets are your best defense against tap extractors.

Top extractor's work well with plenty of penetrant, working the tap in and out. If the tap is shattered, a punch and a chisel is good for getting to the portion of the tap that you can use and extractor on.

I've never had one break where I was fortunate enough to be able to weld something to it. FUBAR or go home.

I bought a cheap Chinese tap and I think that may be why...Here is a pic of the broken tap:

Broken Tap Pic

I am terrified that I am going to mess this up so I am just trying to find out the best way of going about this.

 

[75SV1]

I have used the Wilton once or more. Limited success with taps. I have also used carbide drills on taps and drills. Carbide drills snap real easy. Any side load, and snap. And then its EDM time. I'm in a similar situation. I broke a drill, on a bolt to a Chevy Avalanche. Not fun.

 

[Bent]

Thats actually a great idea but I don't have a welder. I may have to ask my buddy to come over with his. Do you mean the thickness of the tap?


I bought a cheap Chinese tap and I think that may be why...Here is a pic of the broken tap:

Broken Tap Pic

I am terrified that I am going to mess this up so I am just trying to find out the best way of going about this.

Tap remover. Penetrant, small punch if shattered, and a bit of patience.

 

[Xjin85]

I have used the Wilton once or more. Limited success with taps. I have also used carbide drills on taps and drills. Carbide drills snap real easy. Any side load, and snap. And then its EDM time. I'm in a similar situation. I broke a drill, on a bolt to a Chevy Avalanche. Not fun.

Whats your favorite most successful method? Thanks for sharing this.

Tap remover. Penetrant, small punch if shattered, and a bit of patience.

What kind and size tap remover would you suggest?

 

[Bent]

What kind and size tap remover would you suggest?

They are size specific. There may be some sae to metric crossover with some sizes.

 

[Xjin85]

tomorrow is the day!
I hope that I get it all finished.

Can’t wait to tell you guys a crazy story but I’m gonna wait until I finish everything.

But I have another cool story to tell…. I was walking around in a new town that that I’ve temporally moved to and noticed a business that had a bunch of XJ’s and it’s rear parking lot.

I saw The Owner outside and ask if they were his and that sparked a two hour conversation. That was awesome.

Anyways, he had a 2001 that was sitting for a while And he said, I could have it if I got it running. I asked him what was wrong with it and he said that it overheats. I’ve already replaced my entire cooling system so I said challenge accepted.

Send you pictures of a jeep as soon as I get home.

Quick question, will those fancy axle tube seals sit flush and seat correctly with the CV axel shafts?

 

[Xjin85]

So I made progress yesterday but am a DUMB ASS. I have been so sort of asleep i put in both upper ball joints first instead of starting with the lowers.

SO....then I tried to install one of the bottom ball joints by flipping the C clamp upside down while using those OTC ball joint press attachments for Jeep/Dodge....It is not pushing up anymore and I can't get it fully seated. I was careful regarding the placement of the ring attachment on the Ball Joint but eventually, the ring wouldn't stay flush with the lip of the BJ. So now when I try to reset the press and re-align the rings on the lower BJ and tighten there is only full contact (ring to BJ) on one side. I'm not sure if its pushing up evenly.

What would be the best way to go about this? Should I or do I have to take off the top BJ's to get better technical to get the things in differently or is there a trick to this I am missing? I bought these damn attachments just to avoid this

Here is a pic of the progress so far.

Also got in the axel tube seals and started the ACOS spacers.
Pic of Progress (click)

 

[Bent]

The first thing I noticed was that the clamp does not appear to be properly aligned.

 

[RCP Phx]

All ball joints are not created equally, did you measure them for size, we are only talking in thousandths here?

 

[Xjin85]

All ball joints are not created equally, did you measure them for size, we are only talking in thousandths here?

I didn’t measure. I just lubed them up and push them in. I think it’s bc I wasn’t careful enough to evenly seat the lower ball joint I pressed in.

So, when I get the next chance I get, I will take it out and give it another shot. Hopefully the ball joint will be OK to reinstall.

Anyone on here in the Boston area?

 

[Wraith40k]

Thanks for the added and much-appreciated advice.

I've already bought just about everything I needed (so far but it's always something...ALWAYS) other than the POR metal prep.
I've got a wide array of different types of wire wheels for both the drill and the angle grinder. I even bought twisted wire bore brushes to use with the drill to get in all the nooks and crannies.

Just need to get the 2 things you suggested and I'm on my way once the weather gets just a bit warmer.

It's been a blessing getting into XJ's and I've already learned so much over the past several years on this forum. But it has also become somewhat of a curse
in that it's also become an obsession on top of me being too dumb and stubborn to do it any other way. This Jeep has brought me through hell and back with all the problems and money I've dumped into it. She's left me stranded on the road countless times over the past few years having all kinds of different problems. And the more I put in the blood, sweat, and tears the more I obsessed in learning more on how I can make it better. And the more I buy. Then there is the countless hours I spend online every day researching all this stuff. I am so far down the rabbit hole now.

She looks rough on the outside but man, with all the work I've done to this date. I am hoping to keep her going for another 30.

Once I get the underbody fully taken care of I'm going to get cracking on the interior. I have some awesome ideas. And then after that IDK. I was thinking about painting it but I like the idea of her being a sleeper and eventually making it into a stroker and maybe even adding a supercharger while I'm at it. I've already squeezed out as much HP as possible (I think) with stock and have done every other upgrade imaginable to it. All day I think and drool at the thought of that becoming a reality someday.

what is a rough estimate of how much por15 it would take to do a coat covering the unibody (adding frame stiffeners) as well as the underbody from the transmission back?

 

[Black1990jeep]

I like the PPG brand DP two part paints. Great stuff. I degrease, followed by Metal Prep (made by AutoTech) I give the paint two coats. Brush strokes leave thin spots, thus two coats with drying in between coats, this assure full coverage. You may then rattle can to give a color w=that you may like. DP comes in a small number of colors, black, grey, red/brown, white off the top of me head is what DP is offered in. It is a tough primer, but can also be used as a top coat.

I done my frame after welding frame stiffeners with this, and my rock rails. I injected paint between the stiffeners and frame and within the frame with aerosol rustoleum red primer using a straw on the nozzle. Of course I did also use weld thru primer too. You can use the straw nozzles off of cans of brake cleaner or such on the paint can.

Paint thinner leaves a residue, do not use it after things have been degreased, and degrease after using paint thinner.