Looking to buy - Questions

[driver3]

I have searched and read a ton of information on the site - great site btw. I plan on buying an XJ in the next couple weeks. I have read the posts on which xj is best, etc. What transmission, what axles, what xfer case. So, bear with me, I have a few more questions that I could really use some owner input. I've settled on 1999 as the year.

1. Rust - I live in Colorado, came from the midwest. I will not buy one with any rust on it if i can help it, it makes everything so much harder to work on. I have access to xj's with no rust being in the location I am. That being said - what role does rust play in the prices? I'm seeing high prices here, it's a popular car. There's one with 152k miles - 0 rust - no mods - listed for 6999. After reading here and other places, people are quoting 3500 for mileage such as this, but they don't list the rust condition. I MIGHT be able to get this one down to $5k, but still, that is higher than edmunds tmv, etc.

2. Considering these all seem to be around the same prices, are there any add-ons from the factory that are must haves? The ones that seem like it are the towing package. I also want cruise control, which is common. However, is it as simple as adding a trans cooler and hitch to one without? or does the package offer more than that?

The particular one I'm looking at is listed at 6999 as I've said, but I'm thinking 5k cash. Still.. 152kmiles. 1999 model year. no rust, decent tires (stock size), donut spare, no lift, cruise and pwd/pdl. body is straight. Brakes are terrible, feels like warped rotors, shakes the whole car. Something is also clunking up front on the right side. The dealer says they will do new brakes and bushings or whatever is needed to fix the front end before I get it, but obviously I'll have to agree to buy first. There's a hitch ball on it, not a 2 inch plug in one, just an aftermarket ball and no trans cooler. Interior is in great condition, no rips in the seats, etc. command trac 4wd. 4wd seems to work fine in a gravel parking lot - turned the wheel and got the hop, etc..

So, what factor does rust play in the price? What are the "must have" options if any? On the particular one I've discussed, if the dealer does the brakes and any front end work - is it a bad deal? <-- the last is an amatuer question I know, but ask me more questions or give me an opinion if you would.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Ecomike]

I bought a rust free one 2 weeks ago for $450 here, 1985 model. The late 1980s had much better corrosion protection than the 90s!!!

 

[88trailcrawler]

I don't really know details from year to year. But I'll offer my thoughts on narrowing down your selection.

1) If you want 4wd, confirm any you might be looking at are in fact 4wd. I noticed a lot listed that don't really clarify in the listing. 2wd will obviously be listed at a lower price and grab your attention. I got to where I was looking for the t-case lever, 4wd badge or front diff in the pics.

2) decide what engine and Trans you want and don't compromise. There are plenty of XJ's out their, be patient. If you compromise, you will probably regret it

3) determine your acceptable maximum mileage, and skip past one that exceed it. A great deal on a 250k miler probably will be regretted if you were initially considering higher priced lower mileage XJ's in your budget.

4) Really think about what your intended end use will be and narrow your search accordingly. If your going to build and wheel it, you may not need a super clean granny wagon. A few fender benders or bumper bashes might not matter if your going to trim and add bumpers.

5) personally, I would stay away from previous owner mods unless you understand them and they are super clean.

6) research, learn and figure your comfort level for common problems. Some of the best deals will be finding one that needs some repairs that you know exactly how to fix and the seller doesn't.

7) if your wanting a clean "car" focus on the condition of the interior. Exterior mods, such as bumbers, flares, grill/lights, etc are easier and cheaper than interior restoration (in my experience)

8) figure what you want, know what you can fix and be patient.

 

[LYKOS]

Buying a 99 is smart.

Stay away from 2000 and 2001 XJs due to head cracking issues. The 0331 heads used in these years are prone to cracking.

 

[Ecomike]

I think I read recently that even some 99s have the 0331 head that cracks.

 

[xcm]

Did you mention buying a broke ass jeep from a dealer?

Those are a dime a dozen on craigslist, you buy prestine (albeit priced as such) vehicles from the dealer... Also that price is higher than i am...

Dealerships of any sort, are a bad idea.

 

[iluv83vettes]

My buddy got a 99 sport with 200k 4x4 for $800 from a dealership ...

 

[Hypoid]

Yup, welcome to Colorful Colorado!

First, your location does not preclude surface rust, or cancer. There are threads on where to look for rust. With you being from the midwest, I think that may be redundant.

Second, I'd rather buy from a private party, but, I also do my own wrenching. Dealerships are good at putting lipstick on a pig. They know the State of Colorado gives you little recourse after you sign the dotted line.

Third, check into the Colorado Chapter. Someone on the local level might know of a SCREAMIN!!! deal. http://www.naxja.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=95

 

[Ecomike]

I corrected the shpelin errers, LOL:

"Stealerships are good at putting lipstick on a pig"

Love it, I gotta remember that one.:laugh:

 

[xjwisconsin]

My neighbor paid about that two years ago for a similary conditioned xj. a week later back to the dealer to have the ac ripped out and replaced, two weeks after that the front end grenaded... Just because it comes from a dealer does not mean its a deal. five years ago I bought my 98 from CL. Looked good at the time. Last year I was doing some rust touch ups and learned that all of my lower door edges are nothing but bondo. DOH!!! at that second I remembered my dads words from years gone past. "Take a magnet with you when your looking at a used car", he used to drag the magnet in known rust areas to check for bondo build up when he would get a new car.

 

[sjx40250]

Buying used is tough. Dealer or no, really don't know what you are getting. I made up a list of 50 something items to check when I purchased my last one. It was a little lower in range than the one you are considering. Still had issues. But that is what JEEP stands fork, Just Empty Every Pocket. Do I regret having paid that much for it? Well I bought my '90 in '90 and still have it. I have done a number of things to it but for a 22 year old Jeep with 210,000 miles, I am satisfied.

My point is that something is about to wear out soon. Just go with the flow and expect to do some repairs. Rust is a good criteria though. Go to the PNW where there isn't any salt used in the winter. My 90 doesn't have any rust, but the head liner has about 200 straight pins holding it up!

 

[TA2Jeep]

I paid under $3k for my '99 with 145k - no rust, CA Jeep. Granted, mine is a government strippy model (power nothing, no cruise, am/fm only) but that price is too high for that mess from the dealership. Here's some way better options for you :

http://cosprings.craigslist.org/cto/3449246518.html

http://cosprings.craigslist.org/cto/3435982320.html

http://cosprings.craigslist.org/cto/3448821523.html

http://cosprings.craigslist.org/cto/3418845004.html

http://cosprings.craigslist.org/cto/3395358051.html

http://cosprings.craigslist.org/cto/3412818386.html

 

[Ecomike]

Wow, the ask on jeeps is way up since I last looked. The last 2 we bought here were STEALS!!!!