Lift planning in New Zealand Part2, SYE Q's

N

Nixt

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Plimmerton, New Zealand
1995 VIN, 1996 appearance in and out (factory)

NP242 to a D35C - 3.5" now then 5" of lift later planned.

SYE questions:

1) Anyone have reccomendations on NON-hack and tap options? Seems I find hundreds of guys doing hack and tap but none buying one...
2) Can anyone link me to a good beginners' explanation of which yokes will be right for a converted driveline - all the numbers and 'shorthand' naming is totally over my head. I need to buy a clue and need help.
3) Has anyone on the other XJ sites done writeups on this that i should know about?
 
Nixt said:
1995 VIN, 1996 appearance in and out (factory)

NP242 to a D35C - 3.5" now then 5" of lift later planned.

SYE questions:

1) Anyone have reccomendations on NON-hack and tap options? Seems I find hundreds of guys doing hack and tap but none buying one...
2) Can anyone link me to a good beginners' explanation of which yokes will be right for a converted driveline - all the numbers and 'shorthand' naming is totally over my head. I need to buy a clue and need help.
3) Has anyone on the other XJ sites done writeups on this that i should know about?
Click to expand...

i got the advanced adapters SYE it was a very easy install and everything looked and worked great. i used a factory front driveline in the rear instead of buying an afterkmarket driveline however. i would recomend the AA SYE though good quality shipped fast.
 
With a 242 transfer case your only options are the Hack and Tap and the Tom Wood's SYE.
 
Well, looks like it'll probably be the re-machined shaft for me, then. Ouch, though, on the price...

Mitchen - I've read here in the forums that using a front DS is a little risky based on the strength of them. Have you had any issues?

Anyone else have ideas about shafts, then? Opinions on using a front?
 
I cant really see the advantage of using the front shaft (especially down here in Aus/NZ as you cant just wander in to any wrecker and grab another). What front shafts I have found are normally worn at the slip joint anyway and that is not cheap to repair. May as well get a good new heavy duty shaft built for the job and any spare front you find that is in reasonable condition keep as a spare for the front.

Cheers
Steve
 
From what I understand, so long as you're running 35's or smaller with appropriate gearing you'll be fine with a repurposed front driveshaft.

The 3103-27CV yoke is a 1310 style yoke for 27 splines originally made to be a slip yoke but when cut down works perfectly as an SYE yoke. The CV denotes that its compatible with a double cardan.

I have that setup and am pretty happy with it. I like it that my front and rear driveshafts are interchangeable, too.
 
Dana 35......
Wouldn't suggest you run tires larger than 33".... The D35 is known to snap axles like tooth picks when tires run are larger than 33" and if you decide to install a traction device such as a locker... then don't go larger than 31"...
You should look to upgrade to a Corporate 8.25 from a mid 96 XJ or newer. In mid '96 the C8.25 was upgraded from 27 to 29 spline axles. The C8.25 can usually tolerate up to 35" tires without a problem.
 
XJ front drive shafts are plenty strong. The benefits: they are disposable if worn or damaged, reasonably cheap to rebuild, and in the States they are common. I get them 2 at a time for $25-35 each at the junkyard.
 
Steve - Very good point, and one that those in the states really can't relate to. Hard enough finding them at ALL in the yards here, and the parts are 'quite dear', as they say.

Others about driveshaft - thanks for the input (more is welcome!). I think I will be having a shaft make locally, but am still pricing it out. I may use a front DS as an interim shaft.
(Will that work, BTW? It's the same 1310 yoke, right?)

Others about tire size- This Xj will see 32's by the end of it's evolution, but that's all. I am not a hardcore rockclimber kinda guy - just need to get out into the bush and along the shores without worrying about being stuck. And it *will* be regeared when I do go up to the 32's, as it has 3.55 now. But initially I will just be running my existing 30's on stock rims with the 3.5 lift. Articulation being more important than clearance for me at first. This whole SYE thing is going to happen *now* because I'm spreading the costs over two upgrade 'cycles'. One now - lift plus SYE/axle. Another later - pucks & shackles to get 4.5-5", and the 32's on proper rims. Those tires are goddamn expensive!

Thanks, all - keep it coming, *especially* any Aus/NZ jeepers.
 
Nixt said:
Steve - Very good point, and one that those in the states really can't relate to. Hard enough finding them at ALL in the yards here, and the parts are 'quite dear', as they say.

Others about driveshaft - thanks for the input (more is welcome!). I think I will be having a shaft make locally, but am still pricing it out. I may use a front DS as an interim shaft.
(Will that work, BTW? It's the same 1310 yoke, right?)

Others about tire size- This Xj will see 32's by the end of it's evolution, but that's all. I am not a hardcore rockclimber kinda guy - just need to get out into the bush and along the shores without worrying about being stuck. And it *will* be regeared when I do go up to the 32's, as it has 3.55 now. But initially I will just be running my existing 30's on stock rims with the 3.5 lift. Articulation being more important than clearance for me at first. This whole SYE thing is going to happen *now* because I'm spreading the costs over two upgrade 'cycles'. One now - lift plus SYE/axle. Another later - pucks & shackles to get 4.5-5", and the 32's on proper rims. Those tires are goddamn expensive!

Thanks, all - keep it coming, *especially* any Aus/NZ jeepers.
Click to expand...


I run a cobbled together OME lift consisting of the OME 934 coils, OME CS034RA leaf packs with the OME extra leaf and OME nitro shocks, I managed to get about 3.5" of lift out of that. I run a 32" tire. I really like this setup as I can still drive it 1000 miles if I want and its is still damn good on the trail. And boy does she need regeared! :D I have a 231 t-case so I am really no help when it comes to 242 SYE's but the SYE I got from advance adapters is nice.
 
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honestly go with dirtbound's 242 kit or IRO's kit 242's you're basically stuck with a H/T, tomwoods sells you a stock 242 shaft that has been machined to fit the yoke and you deff pay $$$ for it as well.
 
I don't see why there'd be a problem with a hack and tap. I've been running mine for 3 yrs or so now with no issues. It was cheap (RE kit is only $100), and has held up fine. The only thing is, you have to have a steady hand when cutting the output shaft to make sure you cut it straight and a good eye when drilling it. It also helps to put the transmission in gear and let it idle in order to spin the shaft and help keep the cut straight.

Even on 32s, I would source a different rear axle before regearing. If you're concerned with reliability, don't leave in the known weak link.
 
Darky said:
Even on 32s, I would source a different rear axle before regearing. If you're concerned with reliability, don't leave in the known weak link.
Click to expand...

Agreed, wonder if he can get ahold of an 8.8 down there....
 
The 8.25 is pretty rare down here, I'm guessing NZ would be the same. The cheapest option for us, and what I did, is grab a D44 out of a TJ (All TJ's in Australia and probably NZ came with a D44 rear) and stick this in the XJ, fairly easy and although it has the same axle tubes as the D35 at least it has the bigger ring and pinion and axles and no C-Clip. My D44 was $250, they are more available than anything else but still not dirt cheap.

As an aside I trashed a D35 on 32's and now run 35's on the D44.

Cheers
Steve
 
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