KOH builds

I'm thinking you don't need big axles (but I'd bet a 300 would be nice.)
Just remember you are only running 35" tires. A 30 and 8.25 would do fine.
Unless you plan on racing it often...
Keep it as light as you can.

Thats the super big gamble.

Keep it light and hope that dave is easy on us (doubtful its the hammers) or build it like any other Hammer rig and just put 35" tires on it in place of 40's?

As for TC. I think I would take a 231 over a 300 for this. The 231 keeps the driveline and exh on the same side and opens up the pass side (mostly) as well as fits under it better. But the 300 can do twin stick which is nice. But that will just over complicate it if the driver is not fully prepared on when and how to use that to a advantage. again those if its easy rock and a D30 front can handle it, then the twin stick is just not needed either?

In any case, this year will be the most fun I think of any future years, as we are all green on it this year, and no idea what to expect. Not to mention in future years the rigs will progress in build. Even being 'stock' class theres alot of taking things to the limits in the rules to make the rig more extreme, that some either wont or cant, or just dont know of another way to do it. And next year it will be more obvious.

Looking forward to seeing everyone on the dirt out there. Even if we are hated by some here, when that time comes. :moon:
 
well a D60 and 14b only add about 250lbs over a dana 30 trussed and a D44 with good brakes and big axles in both. So its not that big of a deal.

But yeah, I heard someone is running a 14B, shaved to a D44 (or better) ground clearance, chromoly axles, spool on 5.38's... :gee:

Oh and a Currie Rockjock D60 front with chromolys, grizzly, superjoints, true high steer, and thick tubes... :looser:

and the driver does have the ok to 'nerf' the smaller D30 jeeps if needed, in the front tire. Of course only to pass, not to rip the ball joints / unit bearings off, or to break a small ujoint :-)
 
5:38's......and 35's.
What is the math for your top speed?
Get through the desert as fast as you can in order to get into the line's for the rocks as quickly as you can.

ONly 250lbs he says... Is Troy working on your rig?

Okay, I'll stop :D
 
5:38's......and 35's.
What is the math for your top speed?
Get through the desert as fast as you can in order to get into the line's for the rocks as quickly as you can.

ONly 250lbs he says... Is Troy working on your rig?

Okay, I'll stop :D

The 5.38's (or more then a 4.88) was one main reason we went this over a CHP9" setup.

5.38's will give us the ability to bring the motor in to the power band and have the responsivness we think we need for the desert.

FYI
with our set up we Should be:

in 2wd or 4wd hi:
3750RPM (we are setup for a 4500 consistant rpm if needed)
1st - 26mpg
2nd - 47mph
3rd - 73mph
OD - 97mph

Meaning in 3rd we are good for most all desert section.
3rd gear:
2000 rpm - 39mph
3750 rpm - 73mph
5000 rmp - 97mph

so 3rd is a universal gear.

in 4wd Lo we will also have the finial gear ratio similiar to a AW4/atlas or ? with 3.8/4.56 ratio gears.

so we feel its perfect :D

As for the wieght differences, as a initial guess (we are weighing everything though as we go though)

The rear is about 100lbs more, then a trussed D44 with locker and disk brakes.

The front though with the full 1ton knuckles and big 35sp axles I am guessing 150lbs more(maybe a bit more), then a trussed, sleeved etc, D30 with wj outer stuff.

Why stop? This is how info gets out there. I am not to sure why I am sharing all this, but I guess so far, this is just common info and no real 'secret' stuff :-)
 
I thought about going with light and agile but when it comes time to mash the throttle on a climb I don't want to wonder " if " it will hold together. I've wheeled the wee out of the stock 30/44 in our TJ and have only broken one stock shaft on the trail BUT I am well aware that there's a 35" tire attached to it and take it easy and pick a good line. ( most times )

Without any idea of what the course will be like I can only assume worst case scenario and it will be brutal. I've seen to many 30's pop the pinion with 4.88's wreck wheelin' and I plan on being higher than that with the gear ratio as well.

I'm fairly certain a stock 60 would hold up to the abuse from the door so those fancy aftermarket shafts should do the trick easily without fear.

The desert will be new to me so bombing through it at 100mph probably won't happen, much. :D I just need to get a GPS and have my co-driver sleep with it from here on out. :read:
 
Good points.
Although my 30/44 combo lasted for a few years in the Hammers, I also never 'raced' it in the Hammers. Heavy right feet seem to be a common issue with racers (no known cure, well....at least until something breaks.)

IDK, I'm still thinking light and agile, with eye popping desert speed.
How fast are the Jeepspeed guys going (when all out?)
 
As for the wieght differences, as a initial guess (we are weighing everything though as we go though)

The rear is about 100lbs more, then a trussed D44 with locker and disk brakes.

The front though with the full 1ton knuckles and big 35sp axles I am guessing 150lbs more(maybe a bit more), then a trussed, sleeved etc, D30 with wj outer stuff.

ok, the front i can maybe agree with you on. but you must have taken a LOT of weight off the 14b to only be 100lbs more than a 44... idk that number seems a bit ridic to me.

IDK, I'm still thinking light and agile, with eye popping desert speed.
How fast are the Jeepspeed guys going (when all out?)

jeepspeed guys are also running on top of the whoops, KOH trucks are a lot heavier and sink into the whoops; but also have a lot more travel than the JS rigs. im running a mixture of both on my XJ.. havent had a chance to take it out in some good dirt yet..
 
I'm still curious how fast the Jeepspeed rigs go down the flat desert roads (without whoops.)
We can get a D10 out on the worse sections right before the race starts.
That should help out a bit!
:D
 
ok, the front i can maybe agree with you on. but you must have taken a LOT of weight off the 14b to only be 100lbs more than a 44... idk that number seems a bit ridic to me.

:dunno:

The piece of 3/4" plate I used to redo my 14b wieghed half as much as the gaint piece of casting I cut off. Did I mention it has more clearance then my HP60 and a smooth bottom? I also trimmed and cleaned up the pig of a center section, the rest of the axle is fairly lighter in compairson the the center chunk. No need for a truss really, compared to a big one on a 44. Once I ditched the massive 13" drums, the axle got alot easier to move around. I was able to carry a brakeless but otherwise complete 14b by myself without too much trouble.
 
Which is why it's nice to have a girlfriend who works in a machine/fab shop and has access to plasma cutters and nice heavy tig/mig welders. My Hobart is nice for most stuff ( Right Andy ? :D ) but it's nothing like the toy's she has and yes she can weld a hell of a lot better than me ! It's nice to hand her parts in the morning and get them back at the end of the day cut, welded or bent to fit. :greensmok

I keep telling them they need a lathe, mill and a tubing bender but they haven't gotten them yet......
 
Which is why it's nice to have a girlfriend who works in a machine/fab shop and has access to plasma cutters and nice heavy tig/mig welders. My Hobart is nice for most stuff ( Right Andy ? :D ) but it's nothing like the toy's she has and yes she can weld a hell of a lot better than me ! It's nice to hand her parts in the morning and get them back at the end of the day cut, welded or bent to fit. :greensmok

I keep telling them they need a lathe, mill and a tubing bender but they haven't gotten them yet......

LOL.... it welded the weee out of my shackle relocation kit, thats for sure. Its also nice knowing that all I have to do is bring Jeannie a bottle of wine, and she gets you to weld up anything I need... :D:D
 
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