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K&N vs. AFE

splatXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Holland, MI
I see a lot of information on this forum about the FIPK, but personally, I don't like the transition to the throttle body. I do like the design of the new AFE Stage 2. The progressive tube and length make sense that it would bump torque quite a bit, but they are claiming 9hp and 14lb-ft. I am a believer of K&N numbers and have always been that way with AFE as well, but has anyone here seen dyno proof of that? 9hp/14lb-ft seems a LOT for an intake!
 
I have the K&N FIPK... and if knew then what I knew now I would have saved the money and made my own for soooo much less. Yes I did notice a bit more pep in its step, but for $350+ it wasn't worth it IMO.
I would reccomend buying a Rusty's airtube (cost is low) or something like it, simple and effective. Match it with the bigger air filter and you'll be sitting pretty for about $60-80 (I think, haven't looked in a while)
The gains will be there, the self satisfaction that you didn't spend tons of money on something that performs as well as what you just put together, and with whats left you can go buy a Dremel tool, some grinding wheels and bore out the bottom restriction on your TB below the butterfly valve for just a tiny bit more pep.
As for AFE, no idea.
Sorry that didn't answer your question, I just don't want people tossing their money away like I did, unless of course they choose too after reading all this.
 
Not interested in an "exposed cone" design like Rusty's at all! Michigan has quite a bit of mud and I don't want it to get splashed. That is why I have narrowed it down to the K&N and the AFE. The AiRaid is out because it keeps the stock bellows tube aka turbulence creator.
 
splatXJ said:
Not interested in an "exposed cone" design like Rusty's at all! Michigan has quite a bit of mud and I don't want it to get splashed. That is why I have narrowed it down to the K&N and the AFE. The AiRaid is out because it keeps the stock bellows tube aka turbulence creator.
Both the K&N and the AFE have an exposed cone design. They cone is within a cold air intake housing, but it will still suck in water better than the stock setup will. What beakie was saying is that you can save yourself hundreds of dollars by building your own cold air intake including filter, intake tube with CCV breathers, and insulated intake housing. Check out:
http://www.jeep4.0performance.4mg.com/
 
splatXJ said:
9hp/14lb-ft seems a LOT for an intake!

Those figures would be believable if they were for the intake together with a 62mm bored TB and a 62mm bored TB spacer, not for the intake alone.
 
Dr. Dyno said:
Those figures would be believable if they were for the intake together with a 62mm bored TB and a 62mm bored TB spacer, not for the intake alone.

That raises another interesting question ... with the added length of the intake tube on the AFE vs. other intakes, is a TB spacer even worthwhile? I understand it increases plenum volume, but most of the time we "care" about power is at WOT. At that point, the entire intake tube is a plenum.

They have yet to post a dyno sheet, but their initial claim is 9/14 on stock engine!
 
Beej said:
Both the K&N and the AFE have an exposed cone design. They cone is within a cold air intake housing, but it will still suck in water better than the stock setup will. What beakie was saying is that you can save yourself hundreds of dollars by building your own cold air intake including filter, intake tube with CCV breathers, and insulated intake housing. Check out:
http://www.jeep4.0performance.4mg.com/

Yes, but they are "protected" with a shield unlike the Rusty's. Forgive me for being lazy in my older age, but 10 years ago I'd agree with you. At this point in life, I'd rather pay for someone elses engineering and a 10-minute install so I can spend my time elsewhere! :flipoff:
 
I think the stock intake box is fine. Just take out the silencer and install a flat k&n.

I took this farther and drilled a 3" hole in the sheet metal in front of the airbox and put a 3" tube in it, and connected it using tube connectors I found in the "ricer" section of autozone. Then I insulated the intake box.

I used to run an open element K&N (rustys off road kit) thinking it improved performance, but it actually hurt it because it was sucking hot engine air. My throttle response was lazy. So I took it off and built the system described above, and the sharp throttle response returned.

Some might say "Why don't you insulate the open element?", well for 2 reasons, it doesn't look as clean, and at high rpms there is so much suction that the insulation would stick to the filter causing a flow restriction. I could build some kind of a frame to hold the insulation but I figured the extra performance from a cone filter as opposed to a flat filter wouldn't be that much, so I put the stock air box back on.

Another area I found extra low end torque in is the thermotec intake manifold heat shield Dr. Dyno did. He said he got 4 lb-ft at 1000 rpm, which sounds reasonable for the older intake manifolds, but since I have the bigger 99+ intake (more metal = more heat capacity) I'd put that figure around 5 or 6 lb-ft. These gains aren't that noticeable in any type of driving on pavement, but they are DEFINITELY noticeably when going slow off road, because airflow is slow and the intake manifold normally gets so hot you could cook off it.
 
splatXJ said:
Yes, but they are "protected" with a shield unlike the Rusty's. Forgive me for being lazy in my older age, but 10 years ago I'd agree with you. At this point in life, I'd rather pay for someone elses engineering and a 10-minute install so I can spend my time elsewhere! :flipoff:
Fine, spend the money. I spent under $70 CDN including the filter and recharging kit, 3" ABS plastic tubing, a Ford CCV inlet, foil windshield screen and cardboard. The entire process including shopping, driving home and installation took me just over an hour. Out here, the K&N FIPK is $385 plus $15 for the recharger plus tax. So over $400 for relying on someone else's 'engineering' of a free-flow intake. My time is not quite worth $330 an hour, yet, so I found my experience suits me well...
 
Been wondering the same question, Which one to get? I can get a K&N FIPK for $220 to my doorstep. Not sure about the AFE. It's my understanding that on a K&N for a '97+ XJ you can't use a TB spacer. Is this correct?

And after two minutes of searching. AFE for 97-01 XJ is $215 to my door.
Whcih TB spacer should I be looking for? Suggestions?


KodiakXJ
 
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splatXJ said:
Sorry, but I don't think I'll be putting cardboard ANYWHERE under the hood of my XJ! :roflmao:
Its for making the template there, buddy. But don't worry, I'll leave you to your Walmart oil changes, Harbour Freight tools, K&N FIPK, professionally-installed Old Man Emu 2" lift and blinging stere-i-o...

How much do they charge you to fill your tires with air at the local gas station?
 
Beej said:
Its for making the template there, buddy. But don't worry, I'll leave you to your Walmart oil changes, Harbour Freight tools, K&N FIPK, professionally-installed Old Man Emu 2" lift and blinging stere-i-o...

How much do they charge you to fill your tires with air at the local gas station?

You know, the original thread was K&N vs. AFE. I don't recall mentioning DIY in there anywhere. How about you take your rude comments and look elsewhere seeing that you have contributed absolutely nothing productive to MY thread! I've probably built and wheeled more Jeeps than the age level of the person who would even write a post like your last one.
 
splatXJ said:
I've probably built and wheeled more Jeeps than the age level of the person who would even write a post like your last one.

Then you should know that home made mods are a good idea. It gives your XJ some personality.

I've heard a saying: "What an engineer can do for $1, any common idiot can do for $3." So be an engineer!

If your willing to pay $300+ for the performance of a sub $100 intake, go for it. But why stop there? Might as well top off your blinker fluid and get some elbow grease to shine up that intake! http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=2
 
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