Just Another XJ on tons, coilovers, 42's, etc. Build

[shortxjdoug]

Ahhhh ok.



I'll probably end up just using some of all the wiring I have sitting around from striping the harness...lots of pretty colors to choose from

Haha i have multiple partial harnesses from vehicles just for the spare wire...

 

[rockclimber]

duh huh?

for your control signal from the dash to the relays

http://www.neutrik.com/en/ethercon/ethercon-cable-connector-carrier/ne8mc

cat 5 has 8 wires that can be used for signal from the switch to the relay

2 runs of them would give you enough for all of your switches plus a few extras for misc stuff.

that plus one main power and ground for all the switches means you just unplug a couple connectors and the panel comes free.

 

[kndrewa]

http://naxja.org/forum/showpost.php?p=245678816&postcount=9

 

[Starboard M]

Yeah...the seemingly never ending list

So this is what I've been working on (amongst other things) the last couple nights:

Its stainless, wanted to be kind of "fancy". Well "fancy" came to mean PITA. It's 16 gauge stainless, which likes to heat up and discolor when cutting (all I have is an angle grinder really). Overall doesn't look to bad, but its not perfect.

FYI, my stainless dash is a PITA when the sun hits it, and I have glass and a roof. Causes glare and cooks you at the same time.

I tried a wire wheel to "texture" the metal (blanking on the technical term) to hide blemishes in the metal and it looks pretty cool, while also removing the same heat marks you encountered.

Mine will eventually be painted semi gloss white.

 

[freerider15]

FYI, my stainless dash is a PITA when the sun hits it, and I have glass and a roof. Causes glare and cooks you at the same time.

I tried a wire wheel to "texture" the metal (blanking on the technical term) to hide blemishes in the metal and it looks pretty cool, while also removing the same heat marks you encountered.

Mine will eventually be painted semi gloss white.

I see...

I'll put it in as is and see how it does. If it gives me too much of an issue I'll deal with it then. It's only a small piece in the dash, so hopefully it shouldn't have much effect.

On another note...gotta love an oops moment.

Was working on getting stuff out to get the rear main seal done...can't get the oil pan out :banghead:

It doesn't clear between the passenger side engine skid arm, and the pump or whatever on the passenger side on the bottom side of the motor.

So, I'm going to need to cut off that passenger side arm, clearance the back side of it, then make sure it all works together.

Oh the joys of building around an already existing platform...

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

it lives! and its gorgeous! lol. skins will really set this rig off.

 

[freerider15]

Well, been working on the rig on and off...hoping to do another run here in the next few weeks.

But before I do another run I really want things actually further done than they were.

So:

Been working on getting the interior actually 100% fit. Hoping to paint this weekend.

A small note...black oxide GR8 bolts rust...quickly :laugh:

So all the GR8 black button head hex bolt I bought...I now can't use. So, I've got a whole bunch of Stainless pieces coming that should be here tomorrow.

Ebay fukkin rocks...been buying more and more stuff off there lately since stuff tends to be cheaper and free shipping. Bolts would have cost me 2x what I used to buy stuff through boltdepot.com for. :greensmok

Then the not so sexy or fun stuff:

Bought a new oil pan from Advance Auto ($60 after online coupon and in stock :greensmok) since mine had seen better days.

Replaced the rear main, oil pan, and oil pan gasket. Also doing Cap and Rotor since I noticed mine ticking and when I pulled it off it had rub marks on the inside.

Biggest PITA of the whole oil pan deal...is that...I couldn't get my oil pan out...it didn't clear the passenger side engine skid arm

So after cutting out the arm and redoing it some the pan can now come in and out.

Headed to the JY's tomorrow to get a new tranny pan, another steering shaft piece, and another speedo unit since I can't find mine.

I'll get some pictures up once I get the interior finished...should look much better after!

 

[Weasel]

looks good, the oil pans are always a pia, I have to jack mine all the way up the get it out.

As for the steel panel, the guys here take a DA with a 120 grid paper and buff it. Nice texture to it and doesn't always look dirty, show finger prints, etc.

 

[bmikes]

Hey man I've been reading your entire thread for the past few days and got to the end finally. 6 years in like 6 days! ��

Your rig is immaculate!! It gives me a lot of motivation to do stuff on mine, which is basically bike stock compared to this thing. Keep up the good work! I can't wait to see more

 

[freerider15]

looks good, the oil pans are always a pia, I have to jack mine all the way up the get it out.

As for the steel panel, the guys here take a DA with a 120 grid paper and buff it. Nice texture to it and doesn't always look dirty, show finger prints, etc.

Yeah...its much easier to get to the oil pan on the buggy

Hey man I've been reading your entire thread for the past few days and got to the end finally. 6 years in like 6 days! ��

Your rig is immaculate!! It gives me a lot of motivation to do stuff on mine, which is basically bike stock compared to this thing. Keep up the good work! I can't wait to see more

Thanks!

 

[freerider15]

Alrighty...been a whirlwind lately with things.

The tranny pan was the biggest PITA. Got a pan from a junkyard, got some bungs of JEGS...welded bungs to new pan. Well I went ahead and got it all installed to get back to where I was...or so I thought.

I noticed the new bungs were leaking as well...and decently heavy from the rear passenger corner of the pan. Well, turns out one of the holes in the tranny stripped out some and couldn't keep enough pressure on the tranny pan gasket to seal it.

So, drilled and tapped the hole to a bigger size, good to go. Well the bungs weren't leaking from the fitting this time thankfully...but some of the weld. So, I went and threw another ring of weld around the original weld. Well...I didn't think to take the temp probe out for the Autometer gauge

After a quick pop and sizzle...the plastic in the probe was melted and the probe in two pieces now. Made sure to take the other probe out...then got all the welding done. So, $13 and 3 days later...there was another probe from JEGS.

Skipped the tranny pan gasket and used some Permatex Right Stuff.

Well, the pan doesn't leak a drop FINALLY :greensmok

I notice the doubler leaks a little...but I've given up on that ever 100% sealing.

THEN...went to reinstall the power lead back on the starter...only for the plastic that holds it on the solenoid to break off

So, a quick trip to Advance Auto and I've got a brand new clean and shiny starter in. :laugh:

After that was all said and done, I pulled it out to the driveway and gave it a spray down. Well, that only worked so well. I ended up really just needing to resort to a bucket of water and a rag. This revealed a bit of touch up paint and adding of paint since with the moisture I can see rust in some spots.

So my fuel cell...I had noticed it not fully sealing at the fuel cell cap. So I went ahead and order a gasket from JEGS. I special ordered some stuff from Grainger for rubber seals to sandwich the cap. So I took the cap off, only to find the inner rubber seal...missing. So much for fuel resistant it claimed to be It was in pieces all over the inside of the cell. Put the actual meant for fuel cell gasket from Jegs on, so hopefully that should hold.

Got a new vent breather on. Original breather was -6AN, new one is -10AN:

Got the same type of rollover valve in the tank. Went with the FATS routing instead of around the back like before, since its more of a PITA for me to do 3 sides and down.

Got the rear "firewall" in, I really think it starts to make it look like a true rig :laugh:

[/URL]

Been working on getting the interior panels done. Currently have the exterior parts of the passenger side painting and curing:

Looking to have the interior side painted and curing tomorrow, and the drivers prepped so it will start to be painted Tuesday.

I've got until August 5th to get the interior fully done and the UHMW skids on. Headed wheeling for 4 days in Buena Vista!

Goal is to have all the interior panels painted and mounted by this coming weekend, so that I can use the weekend to do little finish work and get the UHMW belly panels on.

Oh, and as a note...do NOT use black oxide bolt...they rust the moment they get any moisture Working on switching them all out for stainless.

 

[MoparManiac]

As I said before, I've been there dealing with the leaky fittings/pans/etc.

If you can go use someone's TIG, or just have someone TIG them in for you, it's much better. It's hard to make sure something is totally sealed with a MIG (at least for me) and MUCH eaiser to tell if something is completely sealed with TIG.

My doubler finally doesn't leak after about the 3rd time installing it :laugh:.

My old RCI 2161 cell exploded multiple times. Blew a side seam out and leaked everywhere. Replaced under warranty. Blew a side seam out again. JB welded it shut. Blew out another seam the first trip after that.

I had a discussion on Vetteboy's thread on Pirate about black oxide vs stainless bolts. Some people don't like the stainless due to stripping them out and having to drill them out. I haven't had a problem in about 2 years and I have my interior panels out quite a bit (cleaning after races, general maintenance, dropping exhaust pieces, etc.).

Looks good. Make sure to take some video of wheeling this time :thumbup:

 

[Olympus Off Road]

My doubler finally doesn't leak after about the 3rd time installing it :laugh:.

I'm glad you had plenty of practice before welding up mine (Which I apparently cut wrong)

Not a drop.

 

[MoparManiac]

:laugh:

Mine was leaking between the 241/205. I dumped a whole bunch of RTV on it the third time.

Mind posting up what you used for the rear firewall? Been thinking about doing the same over the winter when I do the rear 4 link/backhalf.

 

[freerider15]

As I said before, I've been there dealing with the leaky fittings/pans/etc.

If you can go use someone's TIG, or just have someone TIG them in for you, it's much better. It's hard to make sure something is totally sealed with a MIG (at least for me) and MUCH eaiser to tell if something is completely sealed with TIG.

My doubler finally doesn't leak after about the 3rd time installing it :laugh:.

My old RCI 2161 cell exploded multiple times. Blew a side seam out and leaked everywhere. Replaced under warranty. Blew a side seam out again. JB welded it shut. Blew out another seam the first trip after that.

I had a discussion on Vetteboy's thread on Pirate about black oxide vs stainless bolts. Some people don't like the stainless due to stripping them out and having to drill them out. I haven't had a problem in about 2 years and I have my interior panels out quite a bit (cleaning after races, general maintenance, dropping exhaust pieces, etc.).

Looks good. Make sure to take some video of wheeling this time :thumbup:

Yeah TIG would have definitely been nice...but no one close by that could do it ASAP.

I'm still getting some leaking of oil...but not sure where/how. Seems like rear main...but I just replaced the damn thing. At this point if it wants to slighty drip...its going to. Might just stuff a sponge or two under there so all I have to do is pull that instead of wiping any residue off the top side of the engine skid (PITA to get to).

Yeah black oxide is nice, especially since its GR8...but sucks that it rusts so easy. I'm going to throw some paint on the ones on my boatsides, since stainless there will get destroyed pretty quick.

:laugh:

Mine was leaking between the 241/205. I dumped a whole bunch of RTV on it the third time.

Mind posting up what you used for the rear firewall? Been thinking about doing the same over the winter when I do the rear 4 link/backhalf.

Firewall is 16 or 18 gauge I think, with 1/4" perforated sheet (16 or 18 gauge as well). I can figure out what exactly when I get home. Its a nice addition to protect from stuff in the rear...and I like how it looks too

 

[freerider15]

So, I'll throw this pic out.

Went wheeling for 4 days in Buena Vista at COFest.

Didn't even hit Carnage, just some nice easy and more scenic trails...

Aaaaannnnnddd did this:

Sheared three studs. This is what happens when you play on easy trails :lol:

You get going a weeee bit too fast down the mountain...then an outcropped rock just jumps out of nowhere!

This also happened on a high alpine shelf road just wide enough for one rig (i.e. very long drop off my drivers side ) That was a fun recovery all the way down, since I also punctured the sidewall on my Irok.

Wally did surprise me on Holy Cross, was good to see him again :rock:

Though the Reids are damn good knuckles that I know I could never break, I'll be selling them to move to what I feel is an overall more superior setup that's sitting in my garage waiting to get mounted...as well as some new meats :evil: :rock:

Updates to come this weekend :thumbsup:

 

[cracker]

did you limit your ram? that is critical and far too little people do it.

I am a huge fan of the Solid axle keyway as well and I run the artec ind arms that tie into the OEM tie rod location

 

[freerider15]

did you limit your ram? that is critical and far too little people do it.

I am a huge fan of the Solid axle keyway as well and I run the artec ind arms that tie into the OEM tie rod location

Ram isn't limited, since I can use a hair more than the full stroke of the ram can give me.

However, my studs were not ARP studs. I got these studs a long time ago, so not sure If I knew it back then or not. My drill press ate through them like butter, so I was able to extract them all pretty easy.

Artec Arms with tie in bolt and SOLID knuckles sitting on the bench

 

[cracker]

Artec Arms with tie in bolt and SOLID knuckles sitting on the bench

:thumbup:

 

[foxwar71]

However, my studs were not ARP studs. I got these studs a long time ago, so not sure If I knew it back then or not. My drill press ate through them like butter, so I was able to extract them all pretty easy.

I've noticed that cheaper arms are just using some B7 allthread when I was building my buddy's HP60. Ditched that junk in a hurry and put real ARP's in there. If Artec had their arms out when I did my build, I woulda done those and not built my knuckles. Those tie in kits are the bee's knees.