Just Another XJ on tons, coilovers, 42's, etc. Build

MoparManiac said:
Oh I wasn't referring to nylon locknuts.

I use the deforming thread conical top locknuts myself.

I've never liked nylon locknuts.
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Oh ha...guess reading comprehension fail for the day :D

A plus to the deforming thread nuts as well...they tend to be thinner than the nylock nuts.

In some of my mounting that is key, since a Nylock Nut would physically not fit.

Picked up some flat discharge hose yesterday. Goal for tonight is to do a block flush and flush the two forward coolant tubes. After that is done I'll get all the coolant tubes mounted and hose clamps on them, as well as mount the overflow reservoir. Maybe...just maybe i'll start getting coolant in the system tonight :D
 
**** yeah.

Be sure to take video of your first fire up. I know that was such a big moment for me (on both engines :laugh:) that I love to occasionally look back on.

And I have half the work into mine as you do into yours.

:thumbup:
 
MoparManiac said:
**** yeah.

Be sure to take video of your first fire up. I know that was such a big moment for me (on both engines :laugh:) that I love to occasionally look back on.

And I have half the work into mine as you do into yours.

:thumbup:
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Yeah I'll be sure to post a video of it firing up and running.

However firing a 4.0L up again ain't NOTHING compared to starting up a 440 big block :D

Much more excitement for the bigger vroom vroom
 
freerider15 said:
Oh, and I'd be curious to see how many actually torque their all their bolts to spec :D

5/8"-11 bolt, i.e a common link bolt size...210 ft. lbs.
9/16"-12...150 ft. lbs.

I'm willing to bet most get it as tight as they can with a normal ratchet...and not bust out the torque wrench.
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Anything above a 1/2" or 12mm high grade bolt, I stick a 1/2" ratchet on it and crank that ****er down till I'm pounding on the handle with my fist.

Anything over say 5/8 or so, I stick a breaker bar on it and give it gudentight. Haven't broken one yet and nothing has come apart, so I must be doing it right.
 
freerider15 said:
Stronger, not in shear. Grade 8 = Grade 8 (though in reality if assembled correctly, there is next to no shear load on a bolt when in use ;))

In the sense of torque load on the threads, yes. But that is not so much what I care about.

See my post above :D
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Fine thread is definitely stronger in shear. A smaller minor diameter means the effective shear strength of the bolt is less.
I have 4 shock bolts for my front coilovers on my xj that look like bananas and had to be hammered out because they bent right at the edge of the thread and shoulder somewhere near the middle of the eyelet. They were course thread alloy SHCS, torqued and red locktited, and in double shear. No binding either. Those are stronger than grade 8 too.

If you cut the bolts 2-3 threads longer than the end of the nut, damage to the threads and grit should not be an issue regardless of course or fine thread.
 
Vanimal said:
Fine thread is definitely stronger in shear. A smaller minor diameter means the effective shear strength of the bolt is less.
I have 4 shock bolts for my front coilovers on my xj that look like bananas and had to be hammered out because they bent right at the edge of the thread and shoulder somewhere near the middle of the eyelet. They were course thread alloy SHCS, torqued and red locktited, and in double shear. No binding either. Those are stronger than grade 8 too.

If you cut the bolts 2-3 threads longer than the end of the nut, damage to the threads and grit should not be an issue regardless of course or fine thread.
Click to expand...

Yes technically due to minor diameter, the fine threaded bolt is stronger in shear...thats NOT what I have issues with.

The issue is, the smaller minor diameter and thus smaller "teeth" round off when used in our applications. The issue...I/we can't make custom bolts (well most of us :D). If I could make a custom bolt to where the shoulder of the bolt ended just outside the bracket, then I would be using fine thread. However, using store bought hardware, that is not the case. Many times we have to settle with the imperfect scenario of threads riding within the mounting hole. This causes problems for finer thread far more than it does course.

Fine thread is all well and good...until I try and take the damn bolt out aaaand I can't, since the threads have deformed enough to not make that possible.

I've had this very issue with fine thread, which is why I switched back to course.

And as far as shear, as I mentioned earlier...in the correct scenario...the bolt body itself actually sees next to no forces in shear, only in tension ;)
 
freerider15 said:
Yeah I'll be sure to post a video of it firing up and running.

However firing a 4.0L up again ain't NOTHING compared to starting up a 440 big block :D

Much more excitement for the bigger vroom vroom
Click to expand...

Hah, yeah I was pumped for the 440 fire off, but honestly just as pumped for the 4.0 since I had just rewired the whole thing and it was originally a 2.5 MJ.

And on the fine thread thing, I hate them. I know they have their place and all that, but I've yet to have an application where I couldn't just up the bolt size if I needed more holding strength. This isn't the aerospace/military industry.
 
MoparManiac said:
And on the fine thread thing, I hate them. I know they have their place and all that, but I've yet to have an application where I couldn't just up the bolt size if I needed more holding strength. This isn't the aerospace/military industry.
Click to expand...

my shock bolts are fine thread to get a bit more clamp load out of them since its not very easy to upsize them.
 
freerider15 said:
course
Click to expand...

Princess-bride-image.jpg


:D

Broke two 9/16" bolts in Johnny Joints, bent 4, broke one 5/8" upper link bolt, bent 6 1/2" coilover bolts, bent 4 1" shank Johnny Joints...

Heavy rigs suck. :anon:
 
Work on the rig has kind of paused for now, not sure when I'll get back to it...no motivation right now.

Just lost a close friend this last week/weekend. Was in a car accident Thursday evening, life support was pulled on Saturday...it was his 30th birthday.

Gotta work on handling this and getting back to normal before I think the buggy will get some more attention.
 
that sucks man :( really sorry to hear that.

the buggy has waited this long. it will survive a few more days/weeks.
 
Well as many have said...digging into the project to try and keep busy and keep your mind off things sometimes is the best medicine. I found myself just sitting around and just kind of "staring at walls" if I didn't keep busy. So a few days after I picked back up as I could and got back to work. Still is far from easy but I know it will take a while to heal this "wound".

Anyhow...updates:

- Got the hydro done (steering linkage just needs a little work). Got the system filled and as bled as I could without the motor running. I used a cordless drill with an allen bit to run the pump so fluid would actually circulate...as otherwise I was essentially just dry turning the system. Took about 2.5 quarts so far. I anticipate another quart or so after its all said and done and bled.

- Got the cooling system all hooked up and filled...took about 4 gallons.

Coolant bonging my system :laugh:

20140311_2039082_zps978f4649.jpg


- Got the Doubler and Rear Diff breather hoses done
Both cases Teed together with a 3-way brass barb fitting:
20140331_165643_zps550ff4d4.jpg


- Got all the brake lines hooked up to their respective cutting brakes, and finished the rear completely. I decided to run the line through the brackets in grommets for security and "ease" of routing.

What do you do when you're not sure which grommets would work best? Order $30 worth of grommets from McMaster Carr :laugh:
20140327_214215_zps04c9fade.jpg


Rear line run:
20140331_165616_zpsd678dd52.jpg


Line running through the brackets:
20140331_165551_zps8e1531c6.jpg


Line and breather running up the arm:
20140331_165504_zps1842f110.jpg


You can kind of see in this picture the fun that is brake line connections coming into and out of the cutting brakes:


20140331_165720_zps0b65cc7c.jpg


- As well, I got the vacuum hose for the fuel pressure regulator hooked up and routed.

Next things to get done are:

- Finish front brake line routing and connecting, bleed brakes (REALLY REALLY not looking forward to this)
- Install Front Diff breather
- D300 Cable shifters (currently waiting on paint to dry)
- Fill Front Diff
- Fill Doubler
- Fill Tranny
- Get the electrical done enough to get the thing running on its own

Once this thing fires and is running again...it will pretty much be ready to load onto a trailer and take for a shake down run (minus interior panels).

I'll still have things like body panels, front and rear lights, blinkers, etc. to all do...but those don't matter so much right now. I just want the damn thing running and moving under its own power again. I'm hoping to finish most of the list above this weekend. Who knows...maybe I'll get her fired up as well :greensmok
 
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