Is it to late to start an Xj build now?

backwoods308

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Ohio
I have done some research and found that the xj was one of the most reliable 4wd's ever.So bought a 1995 cherokee country with no rust to start with, but in looking around the net alot of the parts to build one no longer are made. Are there still alot of guys here driving XJ's? Are there still plenty of parts vehicles out there? I have noticed that I have a very good oil leak somewhere, and need an ac compressor for starters. I feel like people have moved past the xj to newer vehicles and I hope this is not the case. I would like to keep this around for quite a while. Btw, correct me if I am wrong, I hope I am. I hope that I have not gotten into XJ's to late.
 
You apparently have only done "some" research and not enough. The XJ is still very popular. What are you trying to accomplish with your build and we could help you find what you need a lot better. As far as the oil leak goes, you should be able to find all the seals at any parts house and the oil filter adapter o-rings are found at the dealer. You should be able to find a compressor at a pick a part or from someone on here who is parting out one.
 
I was wanting to put as small of a lift as possible that would have 31" tires without rubbing on 15x7 soft 8 wheels.I am going to get the wheels as soon as I figure out what offset won't rub with 235's until I get a lift. I would like to get a roof rack and front and rear bumpers. I also want rear quarter panel guards with the handles. I want it reliable, and something that would be able to still take on a trip if wanted.
I would kind of build it with an expedition rig type look. One thing though that I have read about an expedition rig is do not install a lift so that if parts break you can find them at any local parts store. Not sure what to do exactly. I am going to give it to my son when he starts driving.Any help would be appreciated.
 
What kinda parts are you having trouble finding?? Anything needed to build a badass xj is readily available.

The whole parts store availability thing is a moot point. Control arm bushings dont die overnight, typical expedition rig guys thinking they will be crossing the atacama...
 
First off which offset or backspacing do I need.For now I am putting 235/75/15 tires on at stock height.I am getting soft 8's in 15x7 from summit. I don't want them to rub on either the lower control arms or fender flares.
Next, I am considering a rough coutry 3" lift,will that work without 31's rubbing? Also can't find an A/C delete pulley assembly.
 
I'm going to be switching to a considerably better paying job in the next few days and this seems to be a far better time to build/restore/restify a XJ than just 4 years ago when I bought my then brand new daily in 2012. There are more body parts available for rust repair, there are a bunch of service and upgrade parts, not to mention the parts to do major mods to it. My XJ is going to need rust repair, some front steering and suspension work, and maybe even interior work that I would seriously like to do to it, as well as a few mods to the 3.6l Chrysler 200 that I bought new in '12.

I do think that the XJ will become an automotive icon like the Power Wagon, Mustang, '68-'70 Charger, '32 Ford, Tri-5 Chevy, ect too.
 
First off which offset or backspacing do I need.For now I am putting 235/75/15 tires on at stock height.I am getting soft 8's in 15x7 from summit. I don't want them to rub on either the lower control arms or fender flares.

Next, I am considering a rough coutry 3" lift,will that work without 31's rubbing? Also can't find an A/C delete pulley assembly.



The first thing you should do, if you want to wheel at all, is weld on frame stiffeners. I ran 235/75x15s on stock Ecco rims and stock saggy suspension on mine before I put the lift on. It didn't run on the stock control arms or the JKS arms I put on with the lift. I never wheeled it like that but I never had a problem with the fenders. I put a 3" lift on after that using OME parts and it was really nice. I would suggest steering away from rough country for the lift though. Their joints aren't known for lasting very long.


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Do you want to actually do some wheeling or just look good?

On the soft 8's you should be fine with 3.75" or 4.5" backspacing with 31's on the control arms. Keep in mind that the farther out your wheel is the more stress your ball joints will see, so having more backspacing, in theory, will let your ball joints last longer.
 
Actually building this for my son for his first vehicle, it will be his daily driver, but may see some light trails 5% of the time.
 
If that's it, I wouldn't build it at all. Fix it to get it running and throw some at's on it and call it a day.

Exactly. Like I said earlier, you can fit 235/75x15's on stock aluminum wheels at stock ride height.
 
Gotta 3rd that, mine is basicly set up that way, my Mid Sister's was like that the last couple years if it's life, and Dad ran bith of his like that, which he put to work at the railroad he worked for at the time, he wished his had some sort of limited slip in their 35's and all of them have had air shocks on the back (and 36psi seemed to be the sweet spot on all 4 of them). Mine seems like it might need a track bar and/or tie rods (haven't driven it in a while, but Dad discovered it likes to wander all over the place), and the brass 3 row we put in nearly a decade ago needs replacement, and he thinks it should get another one. Those might be better things to spend the money on for an older and/or higher mileage rig, especially since Ohio isn't likely any better than Illinois when it comes to weather.
 
3" lift kit with new lower control arms, an add-a-leaf, and shackles, 4 new shocks, and some 31" tires.

Would be a fun father/son project, where you can see real results quickly, and IMO, that's how Chrysler should have made your '95.

That is a real good look and doesn't change any of the important drivability characteristics nor tax the driveline / steering / track bar and incur the additional costs associated with that.
 
Whether a certain tire size will "fit" is determined by trimming, backspace, bumpstop adjustment, and lift height. Take all factors into account. Decreasing your backspace, as you seem to be interested in doing, might necessitate trimming. Ask yourself if you are willing to trim and/or adjust bumpstop height if need be. Ask yourself allot of questions, actually.
 
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