is brake line flaring a lost art??

[meaded]

Use your regular flare tool set the tube about twice as high as normal place cap part in as normal for first step of flairing, use tool to press your bump on it is easy.

 

[Wa Woody]

Sean P, the $40 Ridgid one doesn't include the buttons for making the double flares, the $67 one does though. I agree its a better setup than the cheap imported stuff.

Montanman, if you read throught Stu's post you'll see he has problems with the wingnut style flaring clamp. IMHO they just don't adequately hold the line when trying to flare it. I ream out the end of my cuts with a reamer that looks like the one I previously posted so maybe I'm removing the hardened metal from the end of the line. Even with good flaring tools it takes some practice to make good flares. Good Luck.

Woody

 

[montanaman]

Montanman, if you read throught Stu's post you'll see he has problems with the wingnut style flaring clamp. IMHO they just don't adequately hold the line when trying to flare it. I ream out the end of my cuts with a reamer that looks like the one I previously posted so maybe I'm removing the hardened metal from the end of the line. Even with good flaring tools it takes some practice to make good flares. Good Luck.
Woody

Yeah ... I wasn't pushing for any particular type of tool ... just put that up there for more information. The pics alone made it worthwhile for me to look at it.

 

[Thayer]

Is flaring stainless steel line with these hand tools a hopeless cause? I just tried a few times and I didn't even dent the tube, even though I tightened everything down beyond belief.

 

[carnuck]

NAPA sells the high pressure tube flaring tool, but it's @$100 and you need a vise to hold it.

 

[SeanP]

Sean P, the $40 Ridgid one doesn't include the buttons for making the double flares, the $67 one does though. I agree its a better setup than the cheap imported stuff.


Woody

Now I need to find those buttons somewhere

 

[lawsoncl]

Oddly enough, the $20 special from Sears worked great for me. Of the dozen flares I did, everyone looked fine. Well, one of the practice ones looked funny, but I expected it to since I didn't square off the end of the line first. It had large coupling-type nuts on the bar instead of wing nuts and grabbed the tube very well.

 

[SuperRA]

Now I need to find those buttons somewhere

I started with a cheap double flaring tool... same POS results. I then got a Rigid flare tool and it is soooo much better because it clamps the bar right where the tubing is, not all the way at the ends.

True it doesn't come with the double flaring buttons, but I used the buttons from the cheap flaring tool and everything works just fine. So I guess that first POS wasn't that useless.

Along the same line as this thread.

I'm considering making a couple of hard lines for a transmission cooler, that the ends will have to have a barb to clamp a hose over.

Whats the best way to make a barb on the end of tube/line? I'm considering getting a double flare tool, and only take the end of the line half-way thru the process. Basically crimping down the end of the line with the first fitting, that bulges the line, out, but NOT using the 2nd fitting that folds the end of the line over.

Anyone every try that?

Yes I've done exactly that, on the trans cooler lines. I wanted to replace the hose, so I cut off the factory crimped lines and then had to bead the tube. Took the flare process halfway thru and it leaves a nice bead. Only things to watch out for... you'll have to file or sand the tube smooth again, the gripper bar will mar the tube. When using the double flare buttons, dont stick the tube out as far as you normally would for a double flare, if you do, it'll make the bead too big.

 

[Dirk Pitt]

http://www.carcraft.com/howto/50919/

hth

 

[Nevada City Sparky]

Oddly enough, the $20 special from Sears worked great for me. Of the dozen flares I did, everyone looked fine. Well, one of the practice ones looked funny, but I expected it to since I didn't square off the end of the line first. It had large coupling-type nuts on the bar instead of wing nuts and grabbed the tube very well.

Ditto here, but I didn't get it from Sears but NAPA instead. Gripped tube just fine, but I had better luck using the next size up anvil (1/4" anvil instead of 3/16). the pin fit better inside and produced a nicer double flare. I think the key is to avoid the ones with wing nuts which seem to be cheap Chineese knockoffs.

 

[dizzymac]

Don't use a tubing cutter on stainless, use a cut off wheel and then debur the end and only flare seamless stainless.

 

[Thayer]

Don't use a tubing cutter on stainless, use a cut off wheel and then debur the end and only flare seamless stainless.

After doing a quick web search, I noticed that flaring stainless tube isn't DOT approved or something like that...? Anyways, I asked about stainless because I had to redo my rear brake hard line ot pass state inspections. Stupidly, I bought stainless line and nuts from Summit. Flaring the line was impossible with the cheap Summit tool, so I gave up and used preflared line from Napa with tube connection nuts. Ended up using 3 pieces, 60", 30" (which I had to cut down to 22" and flare one end), and 20". I have no idea how people can bend up a single piece and then somehow maneuver it into place. All those connections might be more prone to leaking, but at least I can replace sections easily when they rust or what not.

Now I have 20" of stainless tube and I want to use it to redo my fuel vent line. Can normal brake shops put a bead in stainless tube?

 

[Wa Woody]

I have no idea how people can bend up a single piece and then somehow maneuver it into place.

Now I have 20" of stainless tube and I want to use it to redo my fuel vent line. Can normal brake shops put a bead in stainless tube?

When building a new hydraulic line I start at one end and work it into place a little at a time. I use my tubing pliers a bunch. They fit into tight spots and keep from kinking the tube. A piece of wire can be used to figure the length and bends needed sometimes.

I wouldn't mess with the stainless line, fine on show cars, but not a good choice on Jeeps IMHO. Two feet of steel brake line at any automotive parts store is cheap and easy to work with. If you really want to use the stainless line for the gas vent try a single flare and don't worry about a double flares. A single flare should be fine on a vent line. Any hydraulic hose shop should be able to flare the stainless line if you can't with your flaring tool. Good Luck

Woody

 

[Thayer]

Thanks for the info. I looked at your quote of me and noticed I had a typo. I have 20' (feet) of stainless 3/16" line sitting around, not 20". I can't return it since I made a cut in it already.

I ordered stainless because it was only a few bucks more than regular and my stock lines look very corroded, small flakes coming off the whole length of the line along the uni-rail (too many winters in New England and upstate NY). It looks really bad, so the state inspection station failed me for that. When I actually took the stock line off, I made a cut in the long line to get it out more easily and noticed the rust isn't anywhere close to getting through the line wall thickness. I guess I was safe afterall.

Anyways, I'll give it a go with the single flare to redo my vent line by cutting it to length and having a shop doo the flare.