Installed 95+ booster, need brake line size

[IRPancake]

Just put the new booster in, and eyeing it up I thought the lines would reach, but I misjudged and the lines aren't even close. I took the booster and master cylinder off the 95 XJ, but and keeping the proportioning valve off my 88, and need to know the size connections of the master cylinder, and of the stock proportioning valve. I know they're mismatched or something, but I can't find the threads and need to know soon to finish it up before I have to go into work :dunce:

I also think the one line will stretch, but am screwed with the other

 

[IRPancake]

the one line will stretch but it doesn't thread.

 

[IRPancake]

ok, should have just googled it, searching on here brought up every thread related to brakes lol.

http://www.cherokeeforum.com/showthread.php?t=3352&highlight=brake+swap

Then I used a total of four adapter fittings, I went to NAPA and they fixed me right up.

There is....
a 3/16" female to 1/4" male adapter
a 3/16" female to 5/16" male adapter
a 3/16" female to M12 x 1.0 male bubble end adapter
a 3/16" famale to M10 x 1.0 male bubble end adapter

I don't know which adapter part number is which, but the four numbers are..

7936
7909
7818
1442

 

[RCP Phx]

You would be better off with the correct lines vs adapters.

 

[IRPancake]

can you get lines with 1 end metric the other sae?

 

[RCP Phx]

Yes,factory or custom.

 

[IRPancake]

I've never flared brake lines though, and whats wrong with adapters?

 

[IRPancake]

Also, does the hole on banjo bolt for the brake hoses need to line up with the hole in the brake caliper?

 

[Pharaoh XJ]

Been through that 2 weeks ago its a PITA cause AMC has like 4 different fittings between the prop valve & the MC.

I did the swap using my 94 prop valve & the 96 booster/MC

I found that the line coming out of the back of the prop valve will bend & eventually fit but the front one is to short. I tried making my own lines from brass lines but i thought it was unsafe.

SOLUTION: get the line from the front of the new prop valve 95+ ( dont worry the nut size is different but the thread is the same TPI & width) bend it to, its actually longer than it looks

 

[RCP Phx]

I've never flared brake lines though, and whats wrong with adapters?

I was refering to someone like SSB!

 

[xxmidianxx]

Shoot magimerlin a PM he knows what you need. He helped me with mine and all we did was "splice" the lines coming off of the prop. valve and the lines coming off of the booster. I am sure he will explain it better.

 

[markw]

I did the prop valve from the 95 onto my 91 along with the booster and mc. I think I had to cut one line shorter and rebend another one. It's all 3/16" if I remember right.

 

[IRPancake]

The link I posted in my last post listed a bunch of adapters for the stock proportioning valve to convert it to 3/16" line and the master off the 95 to convert it to 3/16 as well. Then you just get a 12" or slightly longer section if you can (link said it was close but it fit) with 3/16 and connect it all up. I'm running up to napa tomorrow with that list and seeing what happens. If thats all thats required I should be up and running within 30 mins hopefully. I have a feeling though I'm going to have a small battle with the brake sensor. I have it now that its off when upright, but when you push it it turns on like it should work, but the sensor moves and stops working right. I dont know if when tightened down I should be good but hopefully thats all it needs. I dont know what else I could do to stop it from moving

edit: also I dont think the line coming off the back of the MC that connects to the prop valve is the right size, I tried threading it for a while but it wouldn't catch so either I"m an idiot or its the wrong size

 

[grinola]

I did a 97 booster and prop valve on my 90 and I just cut and flared my lines using the right ends. Actually the ends that were on the 97 booster. Flare kit is about $25 at autozone.

 

[IRPancake]

I'd rather not cut up the old lines if possible, just in case something goes wrong I can swap right back to the old one if I need to. You should see the crap I keep "just in case" lol

 

[IRPancake]

Went today and got all the fittings. Napa only had some of the fittings (2 fittings and 2 20" section of hose was $21!!!). I went next door to advance auto to get the other 2 fittings they didn't have. Ended up getting the wrong one so I made another trip. Now everything is hooked up, just need to bleed the brakes and test it out. Also need to adjust or file more away for the sensor, right now they stay on all the time with the slightest movement of the pedal and doesn't reset, either that or I need to completely tighten it down.

 

[IRPancake]

got it all back together and went to take it for a spin and it only started braking really late in the pedal travel. I came back and rebled it and it moved it up some. I bought those stupid speed bleeders they're probably not holding pressure that well or something. Plus I rounded 1 out so I'll just get new ones and call it a day. Once it does 'catch' though, its alot easier to stop, a lot less pressure needed to stop the same distance.

Still need to figure out what to do about that switch, too bad there isn't an easier way to hook up the brake lights, should just put a switch behind the pad or something :spin1:

 

[IRPancake]

is that common for the brake pedal to move a few inches before it actually applies the brakes after this swap?