I decided i like my lift, please help me fix my driveline issues!

[robhurlburt]

I installed IRO coils up front and made a bastard pack for the rear. I thought everything was too high, but according to the stock XJ specs I only netted 3-3.5in lift over stock. Everything must have been sagging on my XJ, because i measured a 4.25in increase in the front, and 5in in the rear. If i measure axle to the bottom of the flair, it is right at 20.5 all around (netting me 3in per stock specs).

Anyways, along with this has come a problem. I was under the impression that 3in of lift would be fine and would not cause any issues :bs:

As i sits, it the U-joint by the transfer case is knocking. What are some cheap, quick, easy ways to fix this? Cheap being the most important, followed by quick, followed by easy. I will put more time and money into it in the summer, but i would just like to get on the trails for a bit right now.

I have been told:
-t-case drop (is there a DIY on this?)
-Shim the rear axle with angle shims (i think IRO has a kit, not sure if that would work though)
-?????
-profit?

Pics:

Drive line looks steep:

Upon closer inspection:

Yup, you can see the white area where it was popping:

I think it looks good, but i either needs to be lowered, or i need to drop the transfer case.

 

[Lowrange2]

Transfer case drop...

There's 4 bolts holding the crossmember to the uni-rail. Remove those, add a spacer, replace with longer bolts. The downfall to dropping the transfer case is the misalignment of the linkages. It's just a PITA.

What size tires are those?

 

[robhurlburt]

Transfer case drop...

There's 4 bolts holding the crossmember to the uni-rail. Remove those, add a spacer, replace with longer bolts. The downfall to dropping the transfer case is the misalignment of the linkages. It's just a PITA.

What size tires are those?

Are there any spacers i could get locally...like tomorrow? Also, how much do you reccomend dropping the case? What happens with the linkage misalignment?

I am running 31x10.5x15s

 

[$700later]

you can make your own spacers pretty easily if you have the tools. i'd drop it an inch, but every heep is different, your experience may vary.

transfer case drop is a "band aid" that has worked fine for me for a couple years.

 

[$700later]

shims would help too, nice jeep by the way.

 

[Destroyer]

3/4" or 1" seems to be standard. My RE tcase drop was just 4 longer bolts and lengths of tube as spacers. Linkages may or may not need adjusting. Mine still shifted fine when I removed the drop spacers.

http://www.quadratec.com/products/16301_4481.htm

 

[MrShaft696]

just go to the hardware store and get washers, they do the same thing, no need to spend a bunch of money............

 

[Porch951]

I did a transfer case drop a while ago and used some big (like 1" diameter, and 3/4" thick) nuts. Worked great and cost about $3.

On the other hand, i think you're still going to have driveline vibrations with a small transfer case drop like that. You might consider saving yourself the trouble and just buying a SYE. Iron Rock Offroad has a reasonably priced SYE kit that includes a refurbished driveshaft for $200.

 

[pantherchams]

Wow. What year, tranny and tcase? I have lifted a 91 and 99 a similar amount (bit more) and didn't get close to having contact there. I can't believe how different they all are.

My suggestion is just DO THE SYE. Don't waste your time and money on a band aid. I know that isn't what you want to hear, but I have done the tcase drop. You will end up doing the SYE anyway, so just do it. Get the clearance, fix the problem, and do it right.

EDIT: I was just thinking about how broke I was when I did the tcase drop on my 91 and the SYE wasn't really an option. If you really have to, I would go the washer or nut route. I was not impressed by the drop kit I bought, could easily have found something at home depot to turn into a spacer. Just make sure you get longer bolts while you are there.

Ben

 

[87manche]

Go to local TSC, find the welder section. They will have 24" sections of square. Buy 1x1 square, drill four holes, buy longer bolts two aisles over.

 

[rmonte4812]

Do the iron rock kit. I just did a 4.5 lift and the iron rock kit with no bad vibes

 

[robhurlburt]

transfer case drop is a "band aid" that has worked fine for me for a couple years.

just looking for a band aid right now, thanks

shims would help too, nice jeep by the way.

any idea as to what angle shims to use? IRO has a couple different angles. Thanks for the compliment!

just go to the hardware store and get washers, they do the same thing, no need to spend a bunch of money............

probably will end up doing this

Go to local TSC,

i'll give that a try, thanks

I will try the T-Case drop. I'd rather not spend $200 on a SYE right now, I don't even have that much in the lift. I want to see how it rides (i can't even drive it), and I may just end up lowering it, rendering a SYE useless.

 

[ehall]

The transfer case drop will cause the rear output shaft to point downwards a bit more than default which can alleviate some problems with the rear driveshaft, but the negative side effect is that the front output will angle upwards a bit more which can cause problems up front, and the motor mounts will be twisted which can lead them to blow out sooner too. Basically the two motor mounts and the transmission mount make a plane, so if you drop the transmission mount then the rest of the driveline angle changes. It's a band-aid that can lead to more problems in a short while.

Shims are for the u-bolts and are only used with a dual-cardan driveshaft. Basically if you have a slip-joint (like the stock shaft) then the two ends are supposed to be parallel to each other, so the rear axle pinion needs to be at the same angle as the slip-joint. If you change to a dual-cardan shaft (like the stock front shaft) then the axle pinion needs to point at the transfer case, which requires rotating the axle (which requires shims). Do not use shims with the stock rear shaft.

A couple of other options for you to consider... You can get a slightly longer driveshaft, or you can get a slightly longer slip joint, both of which would cause the slip joint to seat further inside the transfer case. It looks like you have an AW4 and an 8.25 axle so a driveshaft from a 1987-1995 4WD XJ with a D35 rear axle will be about 1" longer, and a driveshaft from a 1987-1995 4WD XJ with an AX-15 manual transmission and a D35 rear axle willl be about 1.5" longer. The slip yoke on a YJ Wrangler is a about 1/2" longer than the stock 1987-1995 4WD XJ slip joke, while the slip yoke from a 2WD XJ will be about about 1" longer. The driveshaft lengths are hard rules, but the slip yokes are "usual" and the parts are not guaranteed--either way take a tape measure with you and measure.

Long-term the best bet is to switch the rear output to a fixed yoke and install a dual-cardan driveshaft

 

[robhurlburt]

A couple of other options for you to consider... You can get a slightly longer driveshaft, or you can get a slightly longer slip joint, both of which would cause the slip joint to seat further inside the transfer case. It looks like you have an AW4 and an 8.25 axle so a driveshaft from a 1987-1995 4WD XJ with a D35 rear axle will be about 1" longer, and a driveshaft from a 1987-1995 4WD XJ with an AX-15 manual transmission and a D35 rear axle willl be about 1.5" longer. The slip yoke on a YJ Wrangler is a about 1/2" longer than the stock 1987-1995 4WD XJ slip joke, while the slip yoke from a 2WD XJ will be about about 1" longer. The driveshaft lengths are hard rules, but the slip yokes are "usual" and the parts are not guaranteed--either way take a tape measure with you and measure.

i am an uber noob here so bear with me. how would a longer driveshaft fix the knocking of the U-joint? I can see i pulling the SY into the transfer case more (which i assume would only be a good thing).

wait...that might actually decrease the angle at the u-joint slightly....

Are the driveshafts a direct bolt in?

 

[bert01xj]

Just so you know this bandaid will lead to a bad trans mount and motor mounts.

 

[ericfx1984]

T case drop

http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoTCdrop.htm


and get some axle shims

 

[robhurlburt]

Just so you know this bandaid will lead to a bad trans mount and motor mounts.

just looking for a band aid right now, thanks
I will try the T-Case drop. I'd rather not spend $200 on a SYE right now, I don't even have that much in the lift. I want to see how it rides (i can't even drive it), and I may just end up lowering it, rendering a SYE useless.

T case drop

http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoTCdrop.htm


and get some axle shims

thanks. any idea on how to determine what degree of axle shim i need?

 

[RCP Phx]

Get an agle finder and see what the current angles are and go from there.The YJ(and Late model XJ) yokes are clearanced more at the u-joint area.

 

[ericfx1984]

What happens with the linkage misalignment?

you just loosen the linkage nut and pull the slider down (iirc) and retighten

it is really east... just crawl under and look between the trans and the body... you will see it...

might make it easier to have someone up top moving the transfer case shifter up and down...

 

[muddypunk]

So dont listen to half of these guys sye at 3" LOL I have 4.5 or 5 inches of lift half helped build 5 other Jeeps without sye and DIY 1 inch drop is killer.When I ran 3.5 on my 1st XJ I used 4 degree shims and had no vibes and cost all of about 20 bucks