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Hub removal for U-joint replacement

TunaSoda said:
I just replaced my u-joint on the passenger side yesterday, I used a 6" gear puller and the bearing hub came off rather easily

Now if only I didn't strip out one of the holes in my knuckle over-tightening a caliper mounting bolt I'd be driving it today :(

Is this something I can tap out to a larger size?

This happened on both of my knuckles. Get a Permacoil or Helicoil kit. It'll come with a tap. Drill out the hole in the knuckle according to the directions, tap it, install the coil, then reinstall caliper and bolt.
 
Turfzilla said:
I took off one side of mine today. I hit the front hub part a couple good wacks, then lightly tapped the bolts on each of the three corners fell out easy. I was worried it was going to be a bear. DO NOT hit on the bolts that you are going to reuse....you will mess the head up and you will never get a 12 pt. socket back on the head again. Oh yea I got the do the same side twice....put the brake rotor sheild on backwards. DOH!! I found a Master Pro hub at Oreily's for $84 plus tax. Everyone else was about $115.

I did that once, LOL.
 
xjohnnyc said:
This happened on both of my knuckles. Get a Permacoil or Helicoil kit. It'll come with a tap. Drill out the hole in the knuckle according to the directions, tap it, install the coil, then reinstall caliper and bolt.

Hey, what size permacoils am I looking for?
 
Blaine B. said:
The hugs aren't supposed to be servicable, so you need a new hub, unless you can get a shop to press it back together for you. You can try hammering it back on yourself but even then, you probably damaged something if you can see the bearings.

Thanks for the hug Blaine... ...but I pressed the hub back together and all seems to be fine. Having said that, I just teed up Murphy's Law.
 
LOL....d'oh!

Well when I pulled mine I shot alot of grease on the bearings. But the hub was still bad so I replaced it....it was bad before though, I can't say if I added to the failing process or not by pulling it apart.
 
I'm sure by yanking it apart I reduced its useful life... ...but now that I have anti-seized the hub, future removal should be moot.

BTW, what's the deal with anti-seize compound... ...when ever I use it; I end up lathered in the stuff.
 
Perhaps. I dunno I did my ujoints, it was a major PITA to get the hubs off. But now that that's done, it was really easy to remove the passenger side hub back in late June when I had to replace it.

I just picked up another hub today, gotta do the driver's side.....it's on its way out as well. Just a slight hammering should get it loose and I didn't use antiseize.
 
Hoof Hearted said:
Winner, winner, chicken dinner!

After beating on the hub with a 3 pound bfh & chisel... ...still nothing. I then went and got a spark plug socket and placed it how 98stocker suggested (fit perfect). I then went and fired up the XJ while it was on stands and slightly turn the wheel against the socket... ...I hear the socket fall to the ground, UGH! I shut off the truck, shut the door and low & behold the hub is pushed right off!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :clap: Go to the other side with the same procedure (except without all the hammering and cussing) and doink, it pops right off with ease.

Thank you NAXJA & 98stocker!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

BTW, 98stocker's procedure should become a sticky...

I spent about an hour beating and cursing my seized hub this morning! Finally,I came inside, grabbed a beer, and headed to my office to see what my NAXJA brethren have done in this situation. Without a doubt this was one of the most time-saving tips I've read and used in awhile. Thanks! +1 on making this tip a sticky if it's not already!:thumbup:
 
Matthew Currie said:
We make it hard? Ha. You still haven't hit the rust wall yet. I can guarantee there are hubs out there that will not yield even to the chisel.

Been there, done that! I did this on a 91 with 210k all of it in the rust belt (I'm in MI.) Perhaps I was fortunate. A 5lb hammer and a nice cold chisel got it done for me! After that lots of anti seize. I sold that one so I'll have to start again on my 99 when they go! I 'll try the socket thing first.
 
Hoof Hearted said:
...........BTW, what's the deal with anti-seize compound... ...when ever I use it; I end up lathered in the stuff.

LOL! I don't know what it is about anti-seize, or RTV. I also get that all over whenever it comes out of the toolbox. Seems like I just have to look at it wrong......
 
unitb-1.jpg


Since you got it out not sure if this pic matters, but it's similar to the spark plug method.

I got it from http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/unitbearing/unitbearing-1.htm
 
Easiest way I have found is to straighten the steering wheel, place a spark plug socket between the ear of the outer shaft and the inner axle C, then turn the steering wheel as if trying to smash the socket. Mine was a Washington(corrosion) 97 Country and it pressed it right out.

Big Thanks for this tip! I had to do a u-joint today, I used this tip and was utterly amazed at how easy the whole job went. Not only that the entire job could be done with my on-board car tools! (2000 sport)
 
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