Hesco Stroker ?

[Pharaoh XJ]

Hi guys I was thinking of building a stroker from Hesco 4.5 or 4.7 but I live in Egypt (hot weather) & low fuel quality = need low comp ratio engine

anybody knows the figures of the Hesco stroker kit ( bore, stroke, comp ratio) ??

 

[Israel]

I can't help with the specs on the Hesco stroker, but you should contact Dyno. He is living in UAE if I remember correctly and has to deal with hot temps as well. I believe he is running a 9.25:1 CR.

Here's his page:

http://www.jeep4.0performance.4mg.com/index.html

 

[Dr. Dyno]

Hi guys I was thinking of building a stroker from Hesco 4.5 or 4.7 but I live in Egypt (hot weather) & low fuel quality = need low comp ratio engine

anybody knows the figures of the Hesco stroker kit ( bore, stroke, comp ratio) ??

Hesco supply either +0.030" or +0.060" pistons so you can end up with either of the following:

+0.030" pistons = Bore 3.905", Stroke 3.895", 4587cc or 4.6L
+0.060" pistons = Bore 3.935", Stroke 3.895". 4657cc or 4.7L

A Hesco stroker built with their pistons will usually end up with a compression ratio of ~9.2:1 and since they run zero deck clearance and a tight quench, you'd have no problem running low octane fuel.
My own stroker has a compression ratio of 9.25:1 and runs happily on the lowest octane gas available in the UAE (91 octane). The detonation threshold is sufficiently high that I could probably also run it on 89 octane if it was available.

 

[Pharaoh XJ]

Thx man,
but which of them would have a slighly lower comp ratio the .03 or .06 (we get realy bad quality) I saw a KJ fried its pistons just because fueling with regular!!!!!

 

[corbinafly]

My hesco built stroker has about 9.4:1 compression.

Kyung

 

[Dr. Dyno]

Thx man,
but which of them would have a slighly lower comp ratio the .03 or .06 (we get realy bad quality) I saw a KJ fried its pistons just because fueling with regular!!!!!

The difference is so small that it doesn't matter. Regular fuel in Egypt is probably only 87 octane (maybe less) so I think you're gonna have to use premium.

 

[XJJack]

Make sure you get the alluminum head so you can get away with a little more compresion.

 

[Dr. Dyno]

Make sure you get the alluminum head so you can get away with a little more compresion.

Since Hesco charge a cool $1850 for the aluminium head, Karim would be financially much better off keeping the stock iron head and running premium fuel.

 

[XJJack]

Since Hesco charge a cool $1850 for the aluminium head, Karim would be financially much better off keeping the stock iron head and running premium fuel.

Except he said they only have low quality fuel. So you get the aluminum head because thats all they have, and if you are buying there motor anyway, you get the head upgrade for $1000.

 

[Pharaoh XJ]

90 octane is 1 LE = 20 cents
but actualy 90 octane is around 87 or 88
I expect the price to rise
But since I am going to take it a part which interior parts are recommended to change other than the stroker kit and the aluminum head (expensive)
What about the valve train ?
PS: seeking reliability and efficiency (engine has 130 miles on it)

 

[Dr. Dyno]

You could either go for Hesco's 264 degreee camshaft or buy a different aftermarket unit (the Crane 260/272 degree cam is my favourite for a stroker). Whichever cam you choose you're going to need stronger valve springs than the stock units, and that means buying the matching spring retainers and valve locks as well. The only other valvetrain parts you'll need are new pushrods. You can reuse the old rocker arms but if your wallet is overflowing with cash, you could opt for some Yella Terra roller rockers.
As for the aluminium head, it's up to you if you want to splash the cash but I'd say you don't really need it unless you want the ~20hp gain over the stock head plus the 30lb weight reduction. A Hesco stroker should still be able to run on low octane gas even with the stock iron head.

 

[Pharaoh XJ]

but I heared a member say that after he changed the valve springs he is getting a lot of noise from the engine even @ cruising speeds.
What about the different timing camshaft wouldn t it affect my idle performance ? my main intrest is reliability

 

[Dr. Dyno]

I have the Crane 260/272 degree camshaft and Moper Performance heavier duty valve springs on my stroker. The idle is smooth, idle vacuum is 16inHg, and there's minimal valvetrain noise at idle with none at cruising speed. My stroker's done 44,000km in 2 years and is going very strong (knock on wood).
I think the member you're referring to had some over-aggressive CompCams valve springs installed on his stroker. When he changed them to some lighter Crane units, the noise disappeared.

 

[Cjmartz2k]

This is mostly directed at Dino and kind of a thread hyjack, but what you said about the roller rockers quieting down the valvetrain is way true. Compared to my old 4.0 with the crane 753905 cam, mopar perf. springs, and stamped rockers, my golen stroker with the huge ass compcams cam, springs and yellaterra RR's (1.6 as per your advice) is SO quiet when it comes to the valvetrain. I was amazed at the difference. It even sounds quieter than I remeber it being bone stock (but that was a while ago and I'm drinking right now :viking: )

 

[Pharaoh XJ]

Dr Dyno:thumbup:
can you please give me list of parts needed other than the stroker kit I need to know how much I m gonna pay, seems like a lot
Thx man

 

[Dr. Dyno]

Crane CRN-753905 camshaft $110 from Summit Racing
Crane CRN-99278-12 lifters $74 from Summit Racing
Mopar Performance 5249464 valve springs $114 from Moparts Racing
Mopar Performance 4452032 spring retainers $108 from Moparts Racing
Mopar Performance 4529218 valve keepers (2 packs) $24 from Moparts Racing
Melling high volume oil pump MEL-M167HVS $72 from Summit Racing ($139 from Hesco)
Cloyes dual roller timing set CLO-9-3127 $113 from Summit Racing ($149 from Hesco)

You'll also need injectors that flow 20% more than stock. Depending on what year is your XJ, you can find the appropriate injectors at http://www.fiveomotorsport.com or in Ebay. Hesco will charge you $300 for a set of six injectors whereas you'll get them for half the price elsewhere.
As far as the aluminium head goes, you can buy it from Summit Racing under part no. PAR-1075 for $1350. Even the assembled head (you don't need it) costs $1500 which is $350 less than what Hesco charge for the same thing.
Finally, Hesco's stroker kit costs $2570 while Speedomotive's costs just $675. OK so you don't get as much in Speedomotive's kit but $1900 is still an awful lot of change! I built a whole stroker engine for just $1500 from a rebuildable core and I have my old 4.0 engine as a spare, so that gives you an indication of how much money you can save by shopping around and cherry-picking parts.
Food for thought.

 

[Pharaoh XJ]

I ll go to the jeep junk yard to see the price on those engines I d prefer having a spare. Which blocks do you recommend ?
Other than gasket set is there anything else I needto buy?

 

[Dr. Dyno]

I prefer the '96+ blocks that have thicker main webs and the main bearing cap girdle but any 4.0 block will do for a stroker build-up. Just make sure the junkyard engine that you buy is in reasonably good condition so it can be a rebuildable core.
As far as parts go, take a look on my stroker parts page to see what you'll need. It's a comprehensive list and you can draw up your own shopping list using my parts list as a guide. I've even listed part nos. to make it easier to order those parts that you'll need to ship in from the States.

 

[Weasel]

skip the head upgrade, at 20 cents a liter you can buy alot of gas.

 

[Mike1331]

Finally, Hesco's stroker kit costs $2570 while Speedomotive's costs just $675. OK so you don't get as much in Speedomotive's kit but $1900 is still an awful lot of change!

I would not recomend speed-o-motive. I recently had a friend build a 4.5 stroker from there kit and had several problems with thier products. The 258 crank they sent wasn't balanced properly and the journals were damaged. They kept on sending him a damaged crank, he soon realized they were sending him back the same one, all the while they were telling him it was a new one. They refused to pay for the shipping during all this and were higly un-proffesional. Just thought I'd give fair warning from personal experience.

Good luck