help! stroker running rough

G

GoliathJeeper

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Winnfield, Louisiana
I'm having a problem with the stroker running rough in my jeep. 97 auto. it was built to the "poor mans stroker" and I've solved all the fuel and ignition issues it takes a shot of ether to get it cranked every time. once it idles for a few seconds it seems to be idling smooth but it won't take any throttle without backfiring badly. I checked the timing with the #1 cyl to tdc and the rotor is pointed in the right direction (about 5 o'clock at the #1 cyl plug). I also checked the plugs and they showed it to be running lean. It still has the factory injectors and fpr. could this be the cause for it not getting enough fuel?? I really needed to get this thing running so any advice would be great.
 
Sounds to me like you have a backfiring problem due to excess fuel in your carborator. If you try tweaking you alternator then you should have no problem properly adjusting the gear ratio to get that stroker to stfu once and for all.
 
WhiteTrash4HotRods said:
Sounds to me like you have a backfiring problem due to excess fuel in your carborator. If you try tweaking you alternator then you should have no problem properly adjusting the gear ratio to get that stroker to stfu once and for all.
Click to expand...

:huh:

Smells like a troll
 
look, i'm new to this whole world. cut me some slack if i mess up a few terms here and there. I'm just trying to help. And by the way BRYSON, you can't smell anything through a computer and I am not a troll. I'm just another engine lovin man without a plan.
 
crap! all I've got is pb blaster... now another trip to Almaty where I'm sure there will be 300 people and 2 cashiers. but seriously. could the stock injectors be starving this engine for fuel? dino's site listed it able to run the stock injectors with stock fpr. just trying to get this thing lined out or else I have to leave it in Memphis for 3 weeks. and after 1500 or so invested I'd really like it to be back in la with me.
 
Curious, what size injectors, and are you 100% sure about the ignition timing? I only ask because I've had problems with timing being one tooth off three different times.
 
I'm 100% sure that the timing is accurate. I installed the chain and gears myslef and the dis location checked out so that ruled it out as well. and as far as inj sizing I couldn't be sure as their size but I know they are the stock units that came in it.
 
Bryson said:
...scratching head at previous posts...

...anyways, Is your O2 sensor good? Any codes? It does sound like it's going lean, but the computer should take care of it no problem if you O2s are good.

Also, what you've mentioned is very commonly a bad TPS sensor/wiring/not hooked up
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I replaced both upstream and downstream O2 sensors before I ever tried cranking it. as far a TPS I couldn't be sure. is there a voltage reading I could test it with? my fsm is in Louisiana along with all my diagnostic equipment so I'm kinda going at this with just hand tools. but I do have a voltmeter here.
 
Do you have an aftermarket cam? The dist body is locked relative to the rotor when you install. Mine would not fire until I rotated the one tooth counter clockwise. The rotor was at the right place, but the points werent. You may need to break off the ears so to speak to get to to line up correctly. I believe the TPS should read 5 volts wide open. I could be and probably am wrong.
 
seanyb505 said:
Do you have an aftermarket cam? The dist body is locked relative to the rotor when you install. Mine would not fire until I rotated the one tooth counter clockwise. The rotor was at the right place, but the points werent. You may need to break off the ears so to speak to get to to line up correctly. I believe the TPS should read 5 volts wide open. I could be and probably am wrong.
Click to expand...

no the cam is stock for now. I made the judgement call to just leave the jeep here and come back in 2 weeks for it with the super duty. the orignal plan was to leave the lowrider in memphis so the paint and body work could be done but it looks likes I'll just trailer it back here and trailer the jeep home. could the wires be crossed where the O2 sensor is spliced in causing it to run this lean? the cat is removed but the bung is welded back into the pipe and the O2 sensor was reinstalled. but it was a splice in style sensor which makes me wonder. also does the dist body turn independtly of the shaft? I'm not really understanding the way to go about that. sorry. I know you cannot just rotate them like on small block gm engines. this advice is really helpful guys thanks.
 
WhiteTrash4HotRods said:
Sounds to me like you have a backfiring problem due to excess fuel in your carborator. If you try tweaking you alternator then you should have no problem properly adjusting the gear ratio to get that stroker to stfu once and for all.
Click to expand...
Shut

WhiteTrash4HotRods said:
look, i'm new to this whole world. cut me some slack if i mess up a few terms here and there. I'm just trying to help. And by the way BRYSON, you can't smell anything through a computer and I am not a troll. I'm just another engine lovin man without a plan.
Click to expand...
UP
WhiteTrash4HotRods said:
oh ok Goliath... I see where the problem lies now. You need to loosen the lug nuts and your flux capacitor may need some wd-40 to get the squeek out.
Click to expand...
Fool!
 
WhiteTrash4HotRods said:
Sounds to me like you have a backfiring problem due to excess fuel in your carborator. If you try tweaking you alternator then you should have no problem properly adjusting the gear ratio to get that stroker to stfu once and for all.
Click to expand...
Seriously, just STFU. You have no clue what you are talking about.
GoliathJeeper said:
It still has the factory injectors and fpr. could this be the cause for it not getting enough fuel?? I really needed to get this thing running so any advice would be great.
Click to expand...
Stock plugs won't cause an issue at idle. Its at WOT where they will cause issues. Also, you won't get a good reading from the plugs unless you do a WOT run. However with stock plugs you are most likely running lean at WOT.
GoliathJeeper said:
I'm 100% sure that the timing is accurate. I installed the chain and gears myslef and the dis location checked out so that ruled it out as well. and as far as inj sizing I couldn't be sure as their size but I know they are the stock units that came in it.
Click to expand...
Did you degree the cam? You can't guarantee that isn't a tooth of doing the dot to dot setup. What timing set did you use.
GoliathJeeper said:
could the wires be crossed where the O2 sensor is spliced in causing it to run this lean? the cat is removed but the bung is welded back into the pipe and the O2 sensor was reinstalled. but it was a splice in style sensor which makes me wonder. also does the dist body turn independtly of the shaft? I'm not really understanding the way to go about that. sorry. I know you cannot just rotate them like on small block gm engines. this advice is really helpful guys thanks.
Click to expand...
Exactly when does it do this? Cold start up, after warmed up? The PCM doesn't even look at the O2 sensor until about 5 minutes or so after a cold start. The dis body will turn independently of the shaft if you loosen its hold down. Set it correctly the first time and forget it. There is no adjusting the timing with it. The O2 sensor could be a problem. I never liked the splice in ones anyhow.
When you say you used a stock cam, did you use new cam and lifters or use the original cam, and original lifters? Original cam and new lifters? If you reused the original cam and original lifters did you keep the lifters in order and in their original place on the cam?
 
The rotor should not be pointing directly at the #1 cylinder when the motor is at TDC. It should be pointing at the #1 cylinder when the timing is around 14degrees BTDC.
 
Here is the correct procedure for indexing the distributor: http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/dist_index.html

You don't have to remove the valve cover.. just feel with your finger or a compression gauge for pressure from the #1 cylinder with the spark plug removed.
 
I put a dowel in each cylinder through the spark plug hole, last time I did it. Makes it real easy to figure out where you are in the cycle while rotating it by hand. They all just slide up and down.
 
Hey dude, I have the same setup, but with a 232 comp cam, and had the same problem. actually it was a few different problems.

first, index the dist according to the dino method.. I was surprised to find mine one tooth off. Then you can fine tweak it by hand ( mine still needed a little more adv. I also made an adj CPS bracket for even more, but the dist indexing got rid of most of my stumble. )

The other major contributor to my lean problem, just as you dedcribed, was the injectors. I went with the motorsaport 24s and they helped a lot, but still too lean, so I ended up with 30s.

Another valuable thing to help dial it in is an adj map sensor, while it does seem to make it run a little fat at idle, it really helps once you're moving.
 
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