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Grand wagoneers

imma honky

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Augusta, Ga
anyone own one before? There is one listed local for cheap, and I need a new ride. Anything I should know about it?
 
I didn't buy one, but I was looking pretty hard.

Typically very poor gas mileage, and lots of potential for misc wiring issues. QuadraTrac may have vacuum (line) issues.

Overall pretty stout and comfortable vehicles IMHO. Very Retro (front trim from Gen I or II fits right on Gen III, all the rest was just driveline evolution.) Easily and cheaply lifted... other than the MPG, little to dislike as a FS (cheap) SUV.
 
well, while I should care about gas mileage, I don't...so scrap that (I don't drive around too much anyways). I want something fullsize and in my current budget. It's listed as a 90's with 180k power windows/locks. I am gonna go look at it on saturday. I also like the retro look too. I will be sure to look at the vacuum lines and whatnot. Anything else?
 
imma honky said:
well, while I should care about gas mileage, I don't...so scrap that (I don't drive around too much anyways). I want something fullsize and in my current budget. It's listed as a 90's with 180k power windows/locks. I am gonna go look at it on saturday. I also like the retro look too. I will be sure to look at the vacuum lines and whatnot. Anything else?

Check that all of the windows go up and down (rear can be a PIA). Check the body for rust... engine for the usual leaks and oil consumption. Heavy bugger.... I usually avoid them. :)
 
My brother in law has one. We have been putting in some hours getting the carb adjusted. Dealing with a carb makes me glad to have fuel injection. Some of them have dana 44's front and rear others have an AMC 20 rear that isn't that great. They are neat and people love em. My brother in law gets 10 times more comments on his jeep than I do mine with the same size tires. Check out http://www.ifsja.org/index.shtml

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This is a 4 inch rustys kit with 33 inch TSL's. The engine is a 360 V8 with a Truck avenger carb on it with an edelbrock performer intake manifold. The carpet has been stripped out and the floor Rhino lined.
 
I didn't buy one either, but really spent a crapload of time looking a them.


Biggest culprit, and probably main reason I didn't get one was it is carbed. A 2 barrell carbed 360.

I alos found out, check the frame for rust near the fuel tanks, this is kinda of a hidden bad spot.
 
My boss has had about 4 or 5 different GWs since I started working for him. He didnt care about them at all and in 6 year he only changed the oil on one of them that I know of. They ran okay and held up to us beating on them pretty hard for the condidtion they were in.

Biggest things are oil consumption, gas milegae which you said you didnt care about, that 2 barrel card on the old 360 and frame rot. Besides around the gas tank, also check around the steering box real good. Do NOT plan on towing with it, bad idea. Even when they were brand new the handling wasnt good at all. The entire frontend got rebuilt on one of the trucks I drove and I couldnt even tell a difference, just naturally bad handling.

Other than those few things, I must admit they are pretty stout trucks even when they are in really crappy condition.

Dean
 
I recently purchased one
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So far I love it, I purchased it for a DD and a Tow rig, the guys over at www.ifsja.org have been a great help, many of them use them as tow rigs, seem to be fine. I am in the process of redoing this one pimpin it up if you will, and also will be getting another one in the next 2 weeks a 2 door cherokee laredo edition.
 
w_howey said:
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I alos found out, check the frame for rust near the fuel tank, this is kinda of a hidden bad spot.
Thats were mine is rusted. and is very common. There are kits to repair it though. But besides the fuel milage I love my 90.
 
welcome to the dark side. =)


i personally prefer the pre 79 models. th400 is better imho, and less emissions crap and wiring to go bad. 360 came with optional 4barrel carbs in the 70s. also the yummy 401.

frame rail by ther gas tank skid plate. take a good long look.
 
I love 'em... if it wasn't for the poor mileage I would have gotten one (or a J-truck) a few years ago when I rolled my XJ instead of the MJ I did get. Now that I've educated myself on diesels, I plan on eventually getting a GW with a bad motor and swapping in a GM 6.2 diesel to replace my wife's thirsty '01 XJ.
 
I have a 1991 Grand Wagoneer Final Edition (hence the name 91G-Dub). I looked for 3 years before buying the one I have.
89, 90 & 91 are easy to spot they have the rear window wiper.
Biggest issues with all GWs: fuel mileage if you're lucky 11mpg, carbs are hard to deal with, look for rust on driver side frame rail near rear wheel they're notorious for that (although it can be repaired), rear window motors fail on a regular basis, parts are sometimes difficult to find and on and on and on.
Haveing said all of that I love mine! Wouldn't sell it for any amount of money. Very cool to drive!
Look on IFSJA.org. Lots of good info about them and knowledgable folks to help out.
 
its all about the 401...

ben has a few that i have ridden in - great rides...

also check out wagon master
 
I had a '78 full-size Cherokee -- same vehicle, before the name change. Excellent vehicle. Most previous comments are correct, except the one about handling and towing. They handle very well, IMHO, and also tow very well. My brother also had a '78, and we both used them for snow plowing and as tow rigs.

The AMC Model 20 axle is an excellent heavy-duty axle. Larger ring gear than the Dana 44. The Model 20 used in CJs had axle shafts with separate hubs that were splined and bolted on. In the SJs, the axles are one-piece, so that weakness does not apply.

All AMC V8s from 1970 through the end of production share the same block configuration, so you can buy it with the crappy 2-bbl carb and either find a junker with a 4-bbl intake or buy an Edelbrock Torker, then dump the factory carb and go for one of the Carter AFB clones. The AMC engines delivered excellent gas mileage in the 1960s when they came with Carter AFBs (typically 550 CFM, IIRC). In 1970 AMC changed over to Autolite carbs and fuel mileage went down the flusher. A nice 4-bbl in about a 600 CFM range will give you small primaries for economy at cruise, and larger secondaries for power when you put your foot in it.

You live in Georgia so it should not be a problem for you, but I second the suggestion to check the frame carefully for rot. IMHO the biggest weakness of these trucks was the tendency for the frames to rust out.
 
ok, went to look at it today. Rust is minimal to none. The inside (leather) was cracked bad,the headliner is saggin, but all power options worked except the rear window (go figure). The 4x4 does not work all the time and it has had the tranny replaced already. The body is fairly straight with a few dings. Sounded nice when running (I did not drive it yet). It was listed at 1900 but as I was leavin, he said he would take 1300! So...what should I do? Also, how easy are parts to find (body/mechanical)? Anything I should know about the tranny? I was gonna ask if I could borrow it for a few hours one day and take it to work so I could lift it up and look at everything better. Need soem input. It did look nice though.
 
I have no idea on price. I think this comes down the the classic definition: The "right" price is what a willing seller will accept from a willing buyer. If it's worth $1300 to you, buy it. If it isn't -- don't buy it.

Headliners sag. The headliners in both my '88 XJ and my '87 MJ are almost completely separated from the mold board. Not a big deal. The rear window problem could mean that the track the riser mechanism slides in is rusted out. That's fairly typical and not difficult to repair. Don't remember what the part cost, but I went through that on mine.

The most important thing is to ensure that the frame is free of rust.
 
Eagle said:
The rear window problem could mean that the track the riser mechanism slides in is rusted out. That's fairly typical and not difficult to repair. Don't remember what the part cost, but I went through that on mine.
IIRC the mechanism is SPRING LOADED. Could take you hand off if not dealt with properly.

OTT....get it.
 
robz95xj said:
What year is it?
90. nearly rust free (only noticed it on the doors). I didn't see any rust un the underside, but I also didn't have a light handy. Is there a place that still makes/sells body parts and engine parts? The engine sounded good, but was a little ruff at low idle, went away with gas. I am trying to figure out a way to get it to my shop to look at it. The place that is sellin it closes at 6....I get off work at 6. So finding the time is hard. I think it's worth 1300, but I still need to know about parts.
 
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