Gear Oil Recommendations?

[kastein]

Diffs... I just run whatever's cheapest. I am in there often enough that it's a waste otherwise, and I don't put oil back into things after it comes out. Most owners go 30, 40, 50k, even the life of the vehicle without changing the oil even though it's supposed to be done regularly, and don't have problems, so I figure new oil > old oil, who cares what it is.

Tcase... any ATF. Doesn't matter what. I use dexron just because I have tons of it on hand from when I had more AW4 equipped vehicles on the road.
Tranny... AW4 gets Dexron compatible, some people like ATF+4, I don't see a reason to run it, there's debate about it, no debate about dexron, therefore I go with dexron. AX15s run brass synchros, which really don't like sulfur based EP lubes in most GL5s, so if you have a manual trans, run either Mobil1 10W30 motor oil or a GL5 that lists yellow metal safe on its label. I know Pennzoil Synchromesh, Redline MT90/MTL90 (forget which), and one other GL5 are rated for it. But Mobil1 10W30 is cheaper and sold everywhere, so I run it.

Engine... whatever 5W30 or 10W30 is on sale. ZDDP vs no ZDDP, whatever, oils these days are significantly better than when this engine was designed in the 60s or earlier, it'll handle it fine.

Everything else gets filled up with whatever is on sale, too.

Lube lockers are awesome. If you don't get them, get a brass (not brass plated, all brass) wire wheel for your drill and use that to clean RTV off diffs/covers/cover bolts, it makes it easy and worst case if you drop a few bristles in the housing, they'll get chewed up without any significant damage to the gears. Brass is really soft compared to hardened gear/bearing steel.

 

[bluejeepkid]

Diffs... I just run whatever's cheapest. I am in there often enough that it's a waste otherwise, and I don't put oil back into things after it comes out. Most owners go 30, 40, 50k, even the life of the vehicle without changing the oil even though it's supposed to be done regularly, and don't have problems, so I figure new oil > old oil, who cares what it is.

Tcase... any ATF. Doesn't matter what. I use dexron just because I have tons of it on hand from when I had more AW4 equipped vehicles on the road.
Tranny... AW4 gets Dexron compatible, some people like ATF+4, I don't see a reason to run it, there's debate about it, no debate about dexron, therefore I go with dexron. AX15s run brass synchros, which really don't like sulfur based EP lubes in most GL5s, so if you have a manual trans, run either Mobil1 10W30 motor oil or a GL5 that lists yellow metal safe on its label. I know Pennzoil Synchromesh, Redline MT90/MTL90 (forget which), and one other GL5 are rated for it. But Mobil1 10W30 is cheaper and sold everywhere, so I run it.

Engine... whatever 5W30 or 10W30 is on sale. ZDDP vs no ZDDP, whatever, oils these days are significantly better than when this engine was designed in the 60s or earlier, it'll handle it fine.

Everything else gets filled up with whatever is on sale, too.

Lube lockers are awesome. If you don't get them, get a brass (not brass plated, all brass) wire wheel for your drill and use that to clean RTV off diffs/covers/cover bolts, it makes it easy and worst case if you drop a few bristles in the housing, they'll get chewed up without any significant damage to the gears. Brass is really soft compared to hardened gear/bearing steel.

That about sums it up perfectly

 

[holysirsalad]

(I believe MoPar has officially superseded this to ATF +4, but this is in fact an Aisin-Warner transmission so I don't understand that - I'd stick with Dex/Merc)

They made that change when the AW4s were no longer covered by any drivetrain warranties and Chrysler didn't want to stock a fluid they paid licenses to GM and Ford for

Toyota and Volvo are very adamant about D/M in AW4s (aka A340).

Regarding manuals, Redline MT-90 is an API GL-4 gear oil. The Pennzoil stuff I think is -3 or -4. I recall something about Royal Purple 75w90 achieving a GL-5 rating without using all the corrosive EP additives... SynchroMax does, but it's a little thinner.

 

[Johnnie Walker]

I typically use amsoil 75-110 front and rear. Do not need any additives if you have lsd. Otherwise, I just use the carquest 80-90.
And, lube lockers ftw!

 

[the_weirdo]

+1 for lube lockers.

Without lube lockers a diff change takes 45 minutes. With lube lockers it takes 5 minutes. Well worth the cost.