fusible link replacement for battery cable upgrade

[Muddzz]

Were mainly discussing the bolt used. Anak's bolt addresses issues of compressing plastic that deteriorates over time.

I'm going to try bending the hd industrial lugs I have ... appear to be almost twice a thick as the copper lugs.

Here's a pic of a bolt, appears use a flanged hex head with the bolt welded on the top of the head.

 

[PhotoJared]

I know 5-90 used to make upgraded cables, where is everyone getting theirs from? I can't seem to find anyone who carries upgraded cables

 

[Muddzz]

I know 5-90 used to make upgraded cables, where is everyone getting theirs from? I can't seem to find anyone who carries upgraded cables

Some people make their own.

I've seen cable upgrades on eBay. I'm sure there are other online stores, that sell parts for hot rods and off-road equipment.

Here's a site with information about electrical upgrades.

http://www.kelleyswip.com/electric.html

 

[Talyn]

I made my own mostly using parts and cable from here: http://www.genuinedealz.com/

 

[donthelegend]

Is 5-90 no longer making them? Pretty sure most people on this forum either make their own or buy from him.

BTW, the link Muddzz posted is 5-90s website.

 

[PhotoJared]

His email address on the website it no longer active and I just get bounce back. And I haven't gotten a response to my pm

 

[Pelican]

The kelleyswip link is 5-90's (Jon Kelley) site. He was still making cables as of the past couple of weeks or so. I know that he has been out of touch recently and has some kind of problem with email.

Del City (http://www.delcity.net/) has a great little video showing how to properly solder cables and terminals with solder slugs.

I also got most supplies from Genuinedealz and I figure their pre-tinned marine cable should last just about forever if properly assembled (certainly longer than I'll be around).

 

[Muddzz]

A 5/16 or M8 carriage bolt, seems to work better than the hex bolt.

After grinding flat, just enough of the top part of a carriage bolt and opposing sides of the square. The bolt seems to fit nice an snug into the plastic fuse holder.

I just made sure the square part of the carriage bolt sticks up above the plastic slot and that everthing fits tight.

Then used a tightly fitting small washer with a larger flat washer on top, before installing the fuse, battery cable and nut.

 

[Muddzz]

5/16" carriage bolt.

 

[four_shot]

Perhaps plastic from a glue gun would be able to distribute pressure more evenly, saving the plastic holder.

Are you referring to hot glue or 2 part epoxy?

I was goofing around a few years back and molded a couple of relay sockets out of solid hot glue. They still work, but it is safe to say that they really don't handle under hood temps well. On a plus they are self sealing :roflmao:

 

[Muddzz]

Are you referring to hot glue or 2 part epoxy?

I was goofing around a few years back and molded a couple of relay sockets out of solid hot glue. They still work, but it is safe to say that they really don't handle under hood temps well. On a plus they are self sealing :roflmao:

It came across my mind while looking at fuse holders, hot melt and glue gun. I've used it to repair things in a pinch, but don't work with hot glue regularly.

There are glue sticks that are suppose to be high heat and oil resistant.

http://www.haradhesive.com/blog/Polyamide-Superior-Hot-Melt-Glue

http://www.cyberbond1.com/adhesive-properties/heat-resistant-adhesives.aspx

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...elt-Adhesive-3731?N=5396113+3294310392&rt=rud


The carriage bolt option seems to work ok. The top and sides were ground flat, once installed it becomes very rigid in the holder and difficult to remove. Using a tightly fitted washer along with a flat washer on top, prevents compression of the plastic holder. (* would not require any hot glue)

Or you could go with another type of fastener as illustrated in the previous posts.

I normally use parts from a spare parts box, otherwise it's usually a trip to the hardware store with a little bit of everything.

 

[CharlesS]

Built the battery cables using 2 gauge fine strand with fusion connectors and 4 gauge fine strand with fusion connectors for the cable between the PDC and alternator.
Used a 32V marine grade fuse with copper bar ends and installed a bolt in the slot on the left side to mount the fuse and attach the alternator cable.
This setup has worked well for over 14 years.

 

[mgrabow]

I lost the nut that goes on the factory fuse panel in all these pictures. It appears to be a 5/16 in size but anyone know what thread it is? It just brought this upgrade to a halt.

 

[Anak]

It is metric.

I can't recall the exact size off the top of my head though.

 

[four_shot]

6mm x 1.0

 

[ninewon]

Don't want to disturb sleeping dogs.... I'm at a point I need to upgrade my cables. Checking threads where I can find info. Don't mean to sound dumb, but why am I upgrading the fuseable link? I'm thinking of putting #4 or #2 cables in cause I'm at the beginning of my build. Was told it would be wise before I start adding things..... lights, winch, etc. alternator is 110. Trying
to stay close to clean as possible. 99xj any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

[CharlesS]

On my '98 the green fusible link wire went between the alternator output terminal and the PDC (Power Distribution Center) and was probably the size of a 8 gauge wire. At the time I upgraded the alternator from the stock 107 amp XJ alternator to the 136 amp '98 Grand Cherokee alternator. I replaced the fusible link to provide better power draw capabilities. As you can see from my post above; I took advantage of what was available and created another stud to mount the bus fuse that I used to replace the fusible link.
Created that replacement location almost 17 years ago and it has worked great.

 

[ninewon]

Will I need to install the fuseable link with new wires with a stock alternator? Is it a good idea and what gauge wire?

 

[CharlesS]

With the stock alternator you can upgrade the negative and positive cables which will provide better cranking for the starter. As for upgrading the power lead from the stock alternator; the stock fusible link is designed for the stock alternator and the vehicles amperage draw.
The location where I installed the replacement bus fuse is the easiest out of the way location.
You will need to decide how much amperage draw your additional accessories will require and plan accordingly.

 

[Hypoid]

As for upgrading the power lead from the stock alternator; the stock fusible link is designed for the stock alternator and the vehicles amperage draw.

... Is sized to the amperage capacity of the conductor (wire/cable) in question. If your wire/cable can handle 100 AMPS, put a 100 AMP fuse on it. If the wire/cable can safely carry 200 AMPS, size the fuse accordingly.