Full Width HP44/9" Build-Up

After reading about the unloading problems that are characteristic of a radius arm design, I'm starting to rethink my suspension plans. I know the D44 with cast wedges is rather undesirable for building a link suspension on but it's what I have. How practical would it be to weld link mounts onto the existing C-wedges? I know brianho13 did his this way. What compromises would I be making by welding to the cast?

The new suspension design that I would like to run is a URF-inspired 3 link. I have an AW4 tranny so I know the upper arm clearance will be super tight. To help with this I'd like to run a small diameter, thick wall tube.

suspension.jpg


Thoughts?
 
I have beat the living snot out of mine with no probs. Was so hard on it the last time out I ripped out the ball joints on one side, no probs with arms.

Just make sure you have someone who kows what they are doing do the work for you.
 
BRIANHO13 said:
I have beat the living snot out of mine with no probs. Was so hard on it the last time out I ripped out the ball joints on one side, no probs with arms.

Just make sure you have someone who kows what they are doing do the work for you.
Click to expand...

Can you give me some specifics as to what welding process you used?
 
baseballneal86 said:
Can you give me some specifics as to what welding process you used?
Click to expand...

First, I made all the brackets that I needed and fit them to the castings. Then I tacked them in place and took it to the fab shop that does a ton of work for my company, they welded it for me.

I think it goes something like this.
preheat
high nickle rod
slow cool

I am sure there is more to it but I don't have the specifics.
 
I drew up my high steer arms in CAD earlier today.

highsteerarm-1.jpg


They'll be milled out of 1"x1.5" steel. I built in as much ackerman as I could because I want to avoid any possible bad handling characteristics.

Should I make the balljoint-tierod distance the same as the length of the pitman arm? Since I'm making these myself I can position the tierod wherever it will work best.
 
No real progress lately. I've been slowly collecting parts and saving my pennies.

I did go to a mud bog a few weekends ago and manage to kill my TPS, alternator, K&N filter, and swamp the interior :shhh:. Oh well, it was a good time with friends and made for some cool pics.

n24400453_31400128_6014.jpg


n24400453_31400138_8793.jpg


n24400453_31400129_6344.jpg


n24400453_31400142_210.jpg
 
Sierra Drifter said:
I'm working on a similar build...
This is a pic of my newly installed front HP D44 from a 1978 Ford F250, full width 8 lug. I'm rebuilding the D60 rear now.

jeep2.jpg


Build thread incase you're interested...
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=397243
Click to expand...

Still have not addressed the trackbar angle yet. ;)
Thought you would finish the front off before starting on the rear axle??
 
Gojeep said:
Still have not addressed the trackbar angle yet. ;)
Thought you would finish the front off before starting on the rear axle??
Click to expand...

I only want to do it once. When the D60 is under the back, I will use the ACOS to set the front height where it needs to be, then I will weld on the new track bar bracket at the appropriate height to make the track bar parallel with the draglink. In the meantime it is in the stock location. It's not like I'm going to be driving it like it is now. :D
It's been out of commision for 7 weeks.... I'm missing it now... :(
 
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School and lack of a job have really been putting a hurt on my project time. I've still been slowly gathering parts and only need a few more things before I can assemble the front end.

Hopefully over Thanksgiving break I can make enough money to get this thing back on track.
 
I've made a little bit of progress on the Jeep lately. This past weekend I boxed in my shackle hangers and added new mounts for the shackles, ended up moving 3" down and 2.5" forward. This lets them sit at a much better angle for increased flex and a much smoother ride. There's 4 plug welds per side along with all the edges being welded up. Also used the original bolt just for added peace of mind. Thanks to XJ_ranger for the inspiration and writeup.

IMG_0561.jpg


IMG_0560.jpg


My shackle angle is so bad in the pics because of how flat my leaf pack is. I found 2 cracked leaves on both sides so right now there's only 3 leaves per pack. I'll be adding a few more before all is said and done. This should pull the shackle closer to a 45* angle like it should be.
 
I haven't posted much of what I've done to my D44HP and 9 inch on this thread. So here's an overview.

Here's a drivers side front view, you can see the frame side track bar mount.
IMG_2250.jpg


View of the axle side track bar mount.
IMG_1862.jpg


Axle side track bar mount and hydro assist mount.
IMG_1855.jpg


An overall view, but the axle side track bar mount was rebuilt to help parallel the track bar to the drag link.
IMG_1809.jpg


IMG_1808.jpg


IMG_1799.jpg


Here's the 9 inch. No shock mounts on for this photo. Standard spring perches. But you can see the disk brakes that I added.
IMG_1720.jpg



I'm open for comments or questions.

DAryl
 
JEONLYEP said:
I haven't posted much of what I've done to my D44HP and 9 inch on this thread. So here's an overview.
Here's the 9 inch. No shock mounts on for this photo. Standard spring perches. But you can see the disk brakes that I added.
IMG_1720.jpg



I'm open for comments or questions.

DAryl
Click to expand...


DAryl.

Who makes the Hi-9 Skid you have? that looks clean..
 
Clean-RC said:
DAryl.

Who makes the Hi-9 Skid you have? that looks clean..
Click to expand...

Blue Torch Fab. I've gotta say that it is a sweet guard. There isn't that much to it, wouldn't be hard to make. If you were so inclined and had the right tools.
 
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god dam man i am doin the same thing u are and i like what u have done there . did u end up with any bindage with the steering and or trac bar??
 
ranger125 said:
god dam man i am doin the same thing u are and i like what u have done there . did u end up with any bindage with the steering and or trac bar??
Click to expand...
Both sides droop well. The only problem I have is that my Jeep isn't high enough. The I have it bump stopped to where I only have about 4 inches of up travel. Because more than that and the links contact the oil pan. I have 4 inch spring and the ACOS. I'm getting things together to link the rear and raise it a couple more inches, then I can get some more lift up front and gain some up travel.

.
 
yeah i am sitting at 7 inches and i have yet to get my axles unr there but i chatted with the fellahs at tnt and they said i still may run into clearance issues at full stuff but i am just gettin a feel for this hight steer stuff
 
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