front dana 60 parts list for build?

cracker said:
I had heard some guys were having problems finding front axle seals. Jeff will shime in and he aslo has a build up thread on here somewhere. I don't know if the 44 ground clearance is that much better than a 9" but it is definitly better than a 60 but just put 42s on there and you'll be good :D



Actually 5.38 is available for the high pinion

Thats about right then with 35 or 37's then..

that way the rear 8.8 also would not look like runt, compared to the 60. I think I will look for the D44hp. I have seen those for lower $ lately I thought.
 
vetteboy said:
Hmm, it would appear you are correct. And 5.38 for that matter. Guess I need to update my list...

I would imagine that the pinion gets pretty small at that point though. :eek:

The contact patch does get small at that point so bigger tires may be an issue.

Farmer Matt ran 37s on 5.38s with out an issue (I think).
 
so in a unibearing. What would one use? I figure they would stick out much less then hubs/curb feelers?

I see tera have 33sp "1-ton" ones.

If I do go with sel hubs do they Have to stick out as far as yours avery? Or is that due to some brake/hub fitment?
 
ROBERTK said:
ok well heres the next question though....

Isnt the D44HP smaller in size and fit better in the front? If so why would I not just get one, then put on some D60 inner and outers and build it like a 60 with the 35sp arb or ?

Just askin...


I asked about it and apparently the R&P wasn't going to be up to what I wanted.


I'd consider it a viable option if your final weight is going to be decently low, tire size is kept in check, and you're not going to be putting down V8 power.
 
DirtyMJ said:
I asked about it and apparently the R&P wasn't going to be up to what I wanted.


I'd consider it a viable option if your final weight is going to be decently low, tire size is kept in check, and you're not going to be putting down V8 power.

well only expect to ever see 37's and its I am estimating 3600lbs and its the stock renix with poss a atlas or stak some day...
 
If you aren't going full width get a mid 80's HP D60 ford housing and then only the passenger tube needs to be shorted to get a 63-65" axle width. Chevy knuckles and spindles are stronger and fit the 35 spline outers. If you are interest I do have most of the parts you need.
 
ROBERTK said:
So is the housing that much smaller dia?

And I take it that if I get a full width D44HP that I could have enough material to just cut the inner off and then still have enough tube left to have a D60 inner put on? Or would it be necc. to have all new tubes put in?
Dedenbear makes D60 inner knuckles that will weld right onto a HP44 tube -
http://www.reidracing.biz/innerC.php

as far as narrowing a full width 44, it depends on what axle shafts you want to run...

there are 2 'full widht' HP44's that you can get - F-150 is about 65" WMS WMS, where the F250 HP44 is about 69"WMS-WMS - and the difference is in the tube lengths...

I think you could figure out what you want for a WMS measurement on your axle, measure the length on one side from the WMS to the inside of the inner C on your D60 junk, then measure the lengths of tubes on the various 44's... and make your housing that wide... so - no need to re-tube...

then call alloy USA and ask them how to measure for your custom length axle shafts and be done with it...

if you're not breaking D30 alloys, you wont break d60 alloys... and its not like a front axle shaft prevents you from driving home... I wouldnt worry about having the axle shaft lengths be a production length... its not like NAPA auto parts stocks d60 axle shafts anyhow...
 
TNT said:
If you aren't going full width get a mid 80's HP D60 ford housing and then only the passenger tube needs to be shorted to get a 63-65" axle width. Chevy knuckles and spindles are stronger and fit the 35 spline outers. If you are interest I do have most of the parts you need.

well I think I will just go dana 44HP center and then cut the knuckles off and see how the length looks for the D60 inners to go one and what the WMS would be.
 
XJ_ranger said:
Dedenbear makes D60 inner knuckles that will weld right onto a HP44 tube -
http://www.reidracing.biz/innerC.php

as far as narrowing a full width 44, it depends on what axle shafts you want to run...

there are 2 'full widht' HP44's that you can get - F-150 is about 65" WMS WMS, where the F250 HP44 is about 69"WMS-WMS - and the difference is in the tube lengths...

I think you could figure out what you want for a WMS measurement on your axle, measure the length on one side from the WMS to the inside of the inner C on your D60 junk, then measure the lengths of tubes on the various 44's... and make your housing that wide... so - no need to re-tube...

then call alloy USA and ask them how to measure for your custom length axle shafts and be done with it...

if you're not breaking D30 alloys, you wont break d60 alloys... and its not like a front axle shaft prevents you from driving home... I wouldnt worry about having the axle shaft lengths be a production length... its not like NAPA auto parts stocks d60 axle shafts anyhow...

Fully agree about the shafts. I am prolly just going to get alloy 35sp inners and stock spicer outers with yukon super joints. At least thats what is in my head right now.

My major concern more then anything is all the small or odd stuff that a D30 doesnt have that a D60 outer will and how to fit it all together. I Really dont want some hub sticking out flush with my wheel. And want to have the wheels a 5x5.5, to match a set of adapters I have for the rear 8.8 to that pattern.
 
Anyone have any info on say a 2000 ford superduty f250/350 front d50? Are the stock axle mounts easily removed? I read that its a HP44 center and 60 outer stuff?

Any info would be great. I can get one of these for 410$ complete...
 
ROBERTK said:
Anyone have any info on say a 2000 ford superduty f250/350 front d50? Are the stock axle mounts easily removed? I read that its a HP44 center and 60 outer stuff?

Any info would be great. I can get one of these for 410$ complete...

Nevermind, after doing much reading on pirate's D60 page it looks as though the D50 is a 9" ring gear thingy that is not very supported right now.

Back to D44 adn 60. Reading that the D60 outer stuff in a chevy / dodge fits much better then the Ford?
 
xDUMPTRUCKx said:
eeeewwww!

dude those joints are crap.

What makes you say that? I've been thinking about upgrading the joints and shafts in my 60 and was leaning twords the Super joint. I like the pressurized grease resivour and it has about as much material on the body as possible. It isn't 300m but it doesn't cost as much as a CTM either.
 
jmop said:
What makes you say that? I've been thinking about upgrading the joints and shafts in my 60 and was leaning twords the Super joint. I like the pressurized grease resivour and it has about as much material on the body as possible. It isn't 300m but it doesn't cost as much as a CTM either.

its a gold spray painted copy of a ctm.....


pressurized grease resivor huh? like a hole with a zerk that you use an airpowered grease gun on?

nothing new there in fact ctms have those.

I KNOW why ctms cost as much as they do and they arnt making very much $$$ on them at all. Its the quality that costs.

If your gonna spend the $$$ on something do it once and do it right.
 
xDUMPTRUCKx said:
its a gold spray painted copy of a ctm.....


pressurized grease resivor huh? like a hole with a zerk that you use an airpowered grease gun on?

nothing new there in fact ctms have those.

I KNOW why ctms cost as much as they do and they arnt making very much $$$ on them at all. Its the quality that costs.

If your gonna spend the $$$ on something do it once and do it right.

I agree that IF you need all that then yes go for it. The CTM stuff is bank and it I am sure is worth every penny. But just liek how we all cant afford a tube chassis to start with, we all cant afford CTM's. The super joint is 72% stronger then a stock comparable joint, or so Crawl mag says. SO to me, I have Never broken or needed to do a emergancy D30 ujoint repair, and with a D60 joint and it being 72% stronger then the stock 60 joint, I really doubt I will have any issues.

Given IF I was single or have a Much better finacial situation I would for sure go CTM's. In fact I would go full CDR50R front and Spidertrax rear with all jacks inners and hell might as well throw a new LS6 in there with a stak 3 sp box and make mine a tube chassis...
 
ROBERTK said:
I agree that IF you need all that then yes go for it. The CTM stuff is bank and it I am sure is worth every penny. But just liek how we all cant afford a tube chassis to start with, we all cant afford CTM's. The super joint is 72% stronger then a stock comparable joint, or so Crawl mag says. SO to me, I have Never broken or needed to do a emergancy D30 ujoint repair, and with a D60 joint and it being 72% stronger then the stock 60 joint, I really doubt I will have any issues.

Given IF I was single or have a Much better finacial situation I would for sure go CTM's. In fact I would go full CDR50R front and Spidertrax rear with all jacks inners and hell might as well throw a new LS6 in there with a stak 3 sp box and make mine a tube chassis...
I agree with both Ben and Robert. Both make good points. The "Wish List" that you gave us Robert is what I call Jeep Porno...stuff ya cant really afford, but ya like to at least look at it. :D
 
ROBERTK said:
Fully agree about the shafts. I am prolly just going to get alloy 35sp inners and stock spicer outers with yukon super joints. At least thats what is in my head right now.

My major concern more then anything is all the small or odd stuff that a D30 doesnt have that a D60 outer will and how to fit it all together. I Really dont want some hub sticking out flush with my wheel. And want to have the wheels a 5x5.5, to match a set of adapters I have for the rear 8.8 to that pattern.

8.8 and d60 is no match... get a d44..

I wheeled my stock 79 ford d60 for years till I broke a long side shaft. I just got my alloy USA shafts with 35 spline outers yesterday.

Getting alloy inners and keeping stock 30 spline outers on a d60 is a bad move, if you brake an outer it can easily mushroom the spindle making the hub not removable, you would have to cut alot of it off and buy lots of expensive new parts. Anyone I know chooses alloy outers and some keep spicer inners or do all alloys. Alloy USA is worth the extra money over Yukon.

No need for Yukon, ox, or CTMs for most guys. I bought 806 spice joints those should hold fine with my alloy usa shafts. The 35spline warn hub will be the weak link or my drive shafts. If I upgraded to an ARB, flanges and better drive shafts I could have Ujoint issues. But be realistic I have a v8 auto dualcases and 42s.

you need to keep you d30.. a 8.8 with a 5-5.5 d60 front is recockulious.
 
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ashmanjeepxj said:
8.8 and d60 is no match... get a d44..

I wheeled my stock 79 ford d60 for years till I broke a long side shaft. I just got my alloy USA shafts with 35 spline outers yesterday.

Getting alloy inners and keeping stock 30 spline outers on a d60 is a bad move, if you brake an outer it can easily mushroom the spindle making the hub not removable, you would have to cut alot of it off and buy lots of expensive new parts. Anyone I know chooses alloy outers and some keep spicer inners or do all alloys. Alloy USA is worth the extra money over Yukon.

No need for Yukon, ox, or CTMs for most guys. I bought 806 spice joints those should hold fine with my alloy usa shafts. The 35spline warn hub will be the weak link or my drive shafts. If I upgraded to an ARB, flanges and better drive shafts I could have Ujoint issues. But be realistic I have a v8 auto dualcases and 42s.

you need to keep you d30.. a 8.8 with a 5-5.5 d60 front is recockulious.

ok well ya lost me..

Maybe I wasnt clear. Goin for HP44, and 35sp ARB, all D60 35sp outer stuff in a 8lug even is fine. Then for the rear keep it for a while till funds replenish then do the same thing prolly.
 
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