Front Crankshaft Seal

[XJoshua]

The crankshaft seal on the timming cover is it replacable or built into the the cover? Ive tried pulling it and all ive done is damaged the seal and havent gotten it removed.

 

[5-90]

It is replaceable (I've done it a couple times,) but you have to be careful. The cover is cast, and there's a lip behind the seal (to keep it from going too far.) That lip gets in the way when you try to pop it out - you will need to work a little closer to the inner edge.

When you put the new seal in, put a little RTV black around the outside shell, and put some good grease or assembly lube on the inside lip. Clean the snout of the harmonic damper with Scotch-Brite and grease it as well before you try to put it on - do not hammer! You'll probably want a selection of 1/2"-20 hex head screws to guide and press the thing - and be sure you don't strip the key by misaligning the keyway.

Torque the retaining screw to 80 pound-feet, after dipping the threads in clean engine oil. (per FSM)

5-90

 

[Blue XJ]

It is replaceable (I've done it a couple times,) but you have to be careful. The cover is cast, and there's a lip behind the seal (to keep it from going too far.) That lip gets in the way when you try to pop it out - you will need to work a little closer to the inner edge.

When you put the new seal in, put a little RTV black around the outside shell, and put some good grease or assembly lube on the inside lip. Clean the snout of the harmonic damper with Scotch-Brite and grease it as well before you try to put it on - do not hammer! You'll probably want a selection of 1/2"-20 hex head screws to guide and press the thing - and be sure you don't strip the key by misaligning the keyway.

Torque the retaining screw to 80 pound-feet, after dipping the threads in clean engine oil. (per FSM)

5-90

x2

 

[XJoshua]

5-90 to the rescue. Alrighty so its just a little bit of a tricky b****.

Harmonic balancer removal isnt to shabby. Desided to fork the money for a remover/installer since Im going to be rebuilding a 5M-GE into a 6M-GE right after the stroker is done and AutoZones loan a tool takes awhile to long to refund the deposit.

 

[DonkRado]

5-90 to the rescue. Alrighty so its just a little bit of a tricky b****.

Harmonic balancer removal isnt to shabby. Desided to fork the money for a remover/installer since Im going to be rebuilding a 5M-GE into a 6M-GE right after the stroker is done and AutoZones loan a tool takes awhile to long to refund the deposit.

I'm going to be doing this soon. I'm all set as far as renting the HD puller, but I'm coming up short on info for the HD installer. Can anyone show me an image or link me to one? I've also seen some mention of doing the work with a bolt and several washers, but I'd prefer to do it by the book. Anyone have a write-up with detail to the job with HD installer or bolt & washers?

 

[mikeny59]

In the last couple weeks I've done two seals/wheel bearings (8.25) and eight u-joints and placing them in the freezer overnite made it much easier to finagle 'em in.

 

[5-90]

I'm going to be doing this soon. I'm all set as far as renting the HD puller, but I'm coming up short on info for the HD installer. Can anyone show me an image or link me to one? I've also seen some mention of doing the work with a bolt and several washers, but I'd prefer to do it by the book. Anyone have a write-up with detail to the job with HD installer or bolt & washers?

The crank nose is threaded 1/2"-20 - I've just used a batch of screws and washers to put the HD back on. I don't recall the exact lengths I made my "kit" from - get everything from 1" to 4" long, and a handful of 1/2" washers.

1) Apply grease or engine assembly lubricant to both the seal inside lip and the nose of the HD. Don't use engine oil - it doesn't stay very long. Grease is better - it sticks. Engine assembly lube is best.

2) Line up the keyway with the keyway and key in the crank snout. Set it in place, and press it in with had pressure - it should stay put once you're done.

3) Find a bolt in the set you just bought that will, with the hardened washer originally there and a couple of flat washers (lightly grease all washers,) engage 3-4 threads using finger pressure. Use a wrench, and turn the bolt until it starts to bottom out.

4) Switch to a shorter bolt, and repeat.

When the HD gets close to flush, you'll want to use the OEM bolt and hardened washer ONLY. Lubricate the threads with engine oil or chassis grease, and torque to 80 pound-feet.

5-90

 

[Kevin3151]

I know this is an old thread, but it was helful to me. I also had to replace the seal up there too. In order to press it in I used a piece of 2" black ABS pipe cut to about 1 1/2 inches in length and then used a 2" 1/2 20 bolt and the washer to press it in.

For the final torque of the harmonic dampener bolt, I used a fan belt and a pair of vice grips to hold the pulley in place while tightening it.

KH

 

[5-90]

A strap wrench or a chain wrench will also work, or put the rig in gear and put the handbrake on or block the wheels.

Torque the nose screw to 80 pound-feet, after lubricating with either engine oil or chassis grease (as called for in the FSM.) I'm going to break down and design a mandrel to push the front main seal on one of these days - I just did another one, and I'd forgotten what a pain in the arse it is to get a hammer in down there...

 

[Kevin3151]

Putting it in gear wont work for me, its an automatic... But yea mines done with the belt used as a strap wrench. The strap wrench I had wasnt long enough to fit aroud the pulley.

The ABS pipe and longer bolt worked great though.

thanks for your tips. I have been putting off this job for a few years! It went much easier than I thought.

KH