Front brake lines

XJ_ranger said:
try these part numbers for longer lines

RAY 4538620
RAY 4538621

that is what i run - and 17.99 a piece was nice...

OEM, GM 3/4 ton IFS truck front brake lines

here is a pic next to a YJ wrangler line:


Click for fullsize

just another option...
RAY 4538620
RAY 4538620

Just put these on and yes they much longer I don't think I will come close to maxing these line out with my current 4". They are pretty much bolt on however I had to pry the mounting tab to slide it up to the top so it would bolt to the stock XJ location. I then had to drill out the hole on the tap just a little so that the stock XJ bolt would fit through it. I then squeezed the tap back done so it was tight on the line. For these you want to mount the caliper end pretty much straight up, this is the only way the hard line will clear the steering knuckle. Like I said they are definitely long enough however they may rub on the shock sometime so I plan to cut that rubber insulator off the stock line and glue it to these lines. I personally think that these lines are a better option that the YJ lines and are cheaper as well.
 
Here are some pics of these lines on my XJ.

GM Truck lines
Brakeline2.jpg

This is at full steering lock on level ground.
Brakeline1.jpg


Here are some YJ lines from this link http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/technicalfiles/ARyjBrakeHosesOnXJ/YJbrakeHosesOnXJ.htm

Notice how long the hard line is on the YJ lines
YJ_BR013.jpg


Many people have run the YJ lines with no problem however I think that this really long hard line on it is not that good of fit for the JX. Plus when I wanted to do this the local NAPA, Kragen, and Autozone here in SLO did not have all the YJ lines in stock. I went with the GM lines because 1. I think that they are better fit for the XJ. The hard line doesn't really stiick out above the caliper and stays pretty close to the caliper, well protected. 2. They were cheaper 3. I was able to get them the day I wanted to do the job. I still have to put the rubber buffer around these lines where they will rub sometimes on the shock. This is no real big deal since the stock lines did this as well and that is why they had th rubber buffer on them.. Overall a pretty easy job and a decently cheap upgrade.
 
Well the rubber buffer pads went on easy with some glue and zip ties. However when I cut the pad off the drivers side stock line I found something pretty damn bad. This XJ is an 86 and was a hand me down from my parents who had bought it new. Well they had originally bought a 85 but it was a lemon from the factory, it wouldn't stop leaking. The dealer had it for over a month said that they had fixed it then first rain that came over an inch of water in it. So they bought it back and gave my parents a deal on the 86 so they ended up saving money. Well back on topic somewhere along the line the drivers side brake line got cut and was fixed by wrapping it in electrical tape. :eek::scared: Well it seemed that the fix worked because it never leaked but WTF, that could have been a disaster waiting to happen. It was pretty much unnoticeable from the outside because that had covered it up with the rubber buffer pad. Just goes to show that you should really work on your own rig whenever you can becuase you really never know. And when someone else works on your rig really check it out to make sure nothing is messed up, before you leave.
 
I bought the same Chevy truck lines from NAPA for use with my WJ Akebono calipers. They're 25.125" long compared to the Cherokees 18.3". They're pretty darn inexpensive. An if you have one give out for some reason when you are on the road just about every auto parts store is going to stock them.

1990 Chevrolet Truck C1500 1/2 Ton 2WD - Pickup UP
Left - UP 38620 - 25.125" $ 18.49
Right - UP 38621 - 25.125" $ 18.49

Those prices are the list prices, I paid jobber that was more like $13 - $16 a piece.
 
Just yesterday ordered a pair of 22" RE front lines and one 18" RE one for the rear. Hope the quality on the RE stainless ones are okay. Anyone running these?
 
gorman said:
Just yesterday ordered a pair of 22" RE front lines and one 18" RE one for the rear. Hope the quality on the RE stainless ones are okay. Anyone running these?
Ive been running the RE braided lines for about 6 or 7 years on my YJ with no problems. I have a set to go on my XJ when I get around to it.
The thing with braided stainless lines is you need to protect them from abrasion and crimping. I tightly wrap my front lines with several plastic zip ties placed about 1/2" apart or closer at locations that may be pinched, may rub or may be crimped. The zip ties protect them well, are easy and cheap.
 
So, I can verify that the GM brake lines work great. Just picked up a set at NAPA and installed them. I am on a 3 inch lift right now and if anything they are too long. I forgot to measure the stock but I would say they are a good 4-5 inches longer. Deffinetley plenty of length and it is a bolt on affair. Only a tiny modification needed. You have to slightly pry open the mounting bracket and slide it to the top of the line. I am happpy I chose this over SS braided or the YJ lines. I really did not like the way the YJ's had that huge hard pipe sticking out. The GM's hard pipes on the caliper end are only slightly longer then stock yet seem a little thicker.

I will post some :photo:'s if I ever get my lazy arse around to it..

YeaItsSlo said:
What do we do about the rear now?? :)
As far as the rear goes, I went with the '96 Dakota 4x4 rear that people where recomending. Straight bolt on with no mods needed. It does have clips for ABS line on it that I suppose you could cut off so they don't get hung up on anything but I really don't see the need.

NAPA PART NUMBERS:

FRONT GM LINES
38620
38621

1996 4x4 Dakota center rear brake line
38636
 
On my Comanche, I did the UP brake hoses (they are better than OEM) for a Wrangler in front and I moved the rear down the bracket for the load level sensor (which went to trash) I went to rear wheel cylinders for an '84 AMC Eagle which bolted in, but with the larger bore, I got a nicer stop with less pressure. (I can lock them up with 33" tires in a panic stop)
 
WTF_LOL said:
1996 4x4 Dakota center rear brake line
38636

i think that that is the same # for auto zone with a 8.25 axel
i running 6" and have plent of slack ,i did have a problem with the upper frame/body mount . the lines bolted right up tough
 
I know I'm resurrecting an old thread here, but I found it very helpful. I decided to use my resources to provide a list of part #'s for the GM lines that are spoken of above. They are 25.125" long and are a good replacement for too short stock lines.

NAPA----------38620/38621
Bendix---------77760/77761
Carquest------SP8439/SP8440
Dorman--------H38620/H38621
EIS--------------SP8439/SP8440
Mighty----------77760/77761
Pep Boys-----BH8620T/BH38621T
Wagner--------BH116846/BH116847

I hope this helps someone else!
 
I have had the Rubicon Express stainless lines on the original Heep for several years with no problems....I just did a 6.5 lift on one of my MJs and used the Rough Country stainless lines....nice pieces...and DOT approved...even came with new copper washers...nicely packaged.
 
Thanks alot! This is why I love NAXJA, someone has done the work and provided an elegant solution. Thanks to all who've done the homework.

Happy New Years!
Jeremy

Love2Ride450 said:
I know I'm resurrecting an old thread here, but I found it very helpful. I decided to use my resources to provide a list of part #'s for the GM lines that are spoken of above. They are 25.125" long and are a good replacement for too short stock lines.

NAPA----------38620/38621
Bendix---------77760/77761
Carquest------SP8439/SP8440
Dorman--------H38620/H38621
EIS--------------SP8439/SP8440
Mighty----------77760/77761
Pep Boys-----BH8620T/BH38621T
Wagner--------BH116846/BH116847

I hope this helps someone else!
 
also found this thread very useful, many thanks to all those who contributed to it. i am going to put in a 3" lift in my 93 XJ and brake line upgrade is good since i am replacing a lot of other parts while the front end is apart.

happy new years!
Vic
 
That zip tie idea sounds fantastic....I never would have thought of that....
 
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