Front axle?
- Thread starter XJjosh
- Start date
Zed Mikey
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Denver, CO
Old Ford axles would be your best bet. They are driver's side drop (to match your NP231) and you can get them with a high pinion! 
They came in various widths, but I believe 65" and 67" are the main ones. Drums brakes until the mid seventies, discs in the mid to late seventies. They were in F series trucks up to the F250 and in Broncos. F250 was leaf sprung, the others were coil sprung. Be aware that on some of them, the stock radius arm mounts are cast into the housing, so they are not easily removable... others had them welded on and are much easier to cut off. Do some searching and I'm sure you can find info on the exact years and applications for the different widths and options.
They came in various widths, but I believe 65" and 67" are the main ones. Drums brakes until the mid seventies, discs in the mid to late seventies. They were in F series trucks up to the F250 and in Broncos. F250 was leaf sprung, the others were coil sprung. Be aware that on some of them, the stock radius arm mounts are cast into the housing, so they are not easily removable... others had them welded on and are much easier to cut off. Do some searching and I'm sure you can find info on the exact years and applications for the different widths and options.vintagespeed
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Upland, CA
Ford axles, the scoop:
There were actually 4 Dana 44 front Ford axles commonly used, all are hi-pinion. Some are better for some setups than others.
1/2 ton D44, 5 x 5.5" BP: F150, Bronco's used 3 versions of the D44. All are 65" width (essentially) there is a closed & open knuckle version. Closed knuckle D44s are not generally used because the u-joint is hidden inside a round cover that the knuckle rotates around on kingpins. The knuckle is weaker than a standard D44 and the felt seals are tough to keep sealed. However, if you run deep mud exclusively this axle will keep the junk out of the tubes better. The open knuckle (you can see the ujoint) D44 comes in 3 flavors, all with radius arm mounts, cast mounts, stamped steel mounts and either king pin (rare) or ball joint. Cast mounts are more difficult to remove because they're solid and take alot of cutting & grinding to get off. If you're using the stock 4 link than cast mounts will be more difficult to get out of the way of your new CA mounts. The 1/2 ton D44 uses standard length axles and makes getting aftermarket units easy. To do hi-steer on these axles you'll need to find a flat top passenger side steering knuckle. I believe (?????) a 10 bolt knuckle will work which is flat top.
3/4 ton D44, 8 x 6.5" BP: F250 leaf sprung. These are 67" wide and are all open knuckle ball joint. This is a good choice if you want it wide or are going to cut it down for a standard F150 long side axleshaft. The short side axleshaft is essentially the same length as an F150 model. The long side is almost 2" longer than an F150 and there are no aftermarket shafts specifically made for it. Since it's leaf sprung it doesn't have the bulbous radius arm mounts which makes it easy to fab CA mounts. The 3/4 ton model also has the huge 1 ton ball-joints, disc brakes & usually twin piston calipers. Both knuckles are flat top so hi-steer is as easy as tapping the passenger side steering knuckle.
The differential and carrier are the same, as are axleshaft diameters & 297/760 ujoints. The tubes are much thicker on the 3/4 ton. The locking hubs are the same if internal, although the early 1/2 ton D44 used bolt on lock outs.
I'm running a 3/4 ton D44 and I like the extra width to match my rear 14B. I also built all my own TB, CA, shock mounts and didn't have to remove anything but the long side spring perch. If you're building a radius arm front then the 1/2 ton is your best bet.
Hope that helps! :cheers:
There were actually 4 Dana 44 front Ford axles commonly used, all are hi-pinion. Some are better for some setups than others.
1/2 ton D44, 5 x 5.5" BP: F150, Bronco's used 3 versions of the D44. All are 65" width (essentially) there is a closed & open knuckle version. Closed knuckle D44s are not generally used because the u-joint is hidden inside a round cover that the knuckle rotates around on kingpins. The knuckle is weaker than a standard D44 and the felt seals are tough to keep sealed. However, if you run deep mud exclusively this axle will keep the junk out of the tubes better. The open knuckle (you can see the ujoint) D44 comes in 3 flavors, all with radius arm mounts, cast mounts, stamped steel mounts and either king pin (rare) or ball joint. Cast mounts are more difficult to remove because they're solid and take alot of cutting & grinding to get off. If you're using the stock 4 link than cast mounts will be more difficult to get out of the way of your new CA mounts. The 1/2 ton D44 uses standard length axles and makes getting aftermarket units easy. To do hi-steer on these axles you'll need to find a flat top passenger side steering knuckle. I believe (?????) a 10 bolt knuckle will work which is flat top.
3/4 ton D44, 8 x 6.5" BP: F250 leaf sprung. These are 67" wide and are all open knuckle ball joint. This is a good choice if you want it wide or are going to cut it down for a standard F150 long side axleshaft. The short side axleshaft is essentially the same length as an F150 model. The long side is almost 2" longer than an F150 and there are no aftermarket shafts specifically made for it. Since it's leaf sprung it doesn't have the bulbous radius arm mounts which makes it easy to fab CA mounts. The 3/4 ton model also has the huge 1 ton ball-joints, disc brakes & usually twin piston calipers. Both knuckles are flat top so hi-steer is as easy as tapping the passenger side steering knuckle.
The differential and carrier are the same, as are axleshaft diameters & 297/760 ujoints. The tubes are much thicker on the 3/4 ton. The locking hubs are the same if internal, although the early 1/2 ton D44 used bolt on lock outs.
I'm running a 3/4 ton D44 and I like the extra width to match my rear 14B. I also built all my own TB, CA, shock mounts and didn't have to remove anything but the long side spring perch. If you're building a radius arm front then the 1/2 ton is your best bet.
Hope that helps! :cheers: