Ford cast Raduis arm mounts....

[XJ_ranger]

So is it the common consensus that running JJ's at the axle end of an extended Ford Type radius arms would not give enough articulation?

nope - PM farmerMatt - that is basicly his setup and it works well for him...

now - extending with out lengthening - that is a big no-no...

 

[Gil BullyKatz]

nope - PM farmerMatt - that is basicly his setup and it works well for him...

now - extending with out lengthening - that is a big no-no...

Thank You for pointing out the obvious...

My argument is that it seems that with a JJ/superflex joint at the frame end, and rubber C bushings, you've achieved optimum use of the Ford type arms...

If you really want more articulation/flex than that...

Ditch the Ford Radius arms and go 3 link or 4 link with JJ's at all ends...

I understand the concept and function of the wristed arm but there's gotta be a point where you're going waaaay past the limits of function and strength of the original design.

The advantage of using the Ford arms is the ease of swapping an HP44 under an XJ and retaining a reasonable amount of articulation/flex.

I dunno...

Maybe to me it would seem more effective to ditch the arms alltogether than to try to obtain 3 link/4 link/wishbone performance out of them...


Discuss...



:dunno:

Lawn Cher' and I came up with a decent idea that we were trying to figure out.
That is if you have a 44 with the welded on mounts, you can cut them off, sleeve the axle with another larger tube and then weld new radius arm mounts onto the sleeve so the one side (passenger side would be the better side) will basially spin on itself allowing the radius arm to not be bound in the one spot. It would keep the axle in place, not weaken the housing and still be able to rotate.

The only downside would be trying to figure out how to make it lubricated or something along those lines so it doesnt bind up.

You REALLY need this much articulation?

 

[0313]

I was going to do something a long these lines.
http://wt4x4.net/tech/heavy.htm
If I don't like it I'll go back to normal arm, and as far as I know I would be the first in an xj with wristed arms so I don't have anyone to ask about it. Most of the bronco guys ive wheeled with are happy with them but they are selective about when they disconnect it, no real off camber stuff, just areas where more articulation is needed. They use it like an exagerated version of a stock sway bar.
This is an option too but it's a little more spendy than the $20 it will cost me to wrist the arm. http://bcbroncos.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=710

You can wrist the arms all you like, but if you still run the bushing on the frame end you are not going to be doing yourself much good. It is limited by the flex of the bushing. You would still need to put a JJ or heim on the frame end to make it worth while.

You REALLY need this much articulation?

It was just an idea, to get more articulation. I dont think it would be feasable to do to begin with. The radius arms are hard enough to get on the axle without making the mounts wider and larger.

I run the radius arms with the bushings on the frame end, and I have NO flex.
Planning on getting extended radius arms with heims.

It was just an idea, thats all.

 

[Ghost]

Ok, so stock arms dont flex as well as the stock xj suspion? Is that what we are saying? THe other Idea I had was to build a LCA mount that bolts to the wedges like the radius arms. Then put UCA mounts on the axle like they do for the standard D44 with the weld on radius arm mounts! Any thoughts on that?

 

[0313]

Ok, so stock arms dont flex as well as the stock xj suspion? Is that what we are saying?

Yes, thats what we are saying.

THe other Idea I had was to build a LCA mount that bolts to the wedges like the radius arms. Then put UCA mounts on the axle like they do for the standard D44 with the weld on radius arm mounts! Any thoughts on that?

I am trying to picture it, and I am not seeing what you are wanting to do.
If it is what I am thinking, it doesnt sound like the best idea. To complicated of a solution to an easy fix. Just extend and put heims.

 

[XJ_ranger]

There is a guy on pirate (sillyneck) who has an EB with the d44, he cut the arms off right behind where they attach - so all he kept was the clamp that does on the wedges and the coil buckets.

then welded tabs for his dual triangulated 4 link - the lowers mounted to the "clamp" and the uppers mounted to a center point on the diff...

not saying that is the best way or anything, just that it is an option...

 

[Ghost]

0313 Think of it this way. Build a LCA mount for the axle that bolts to where the radius arms go. Clear as mud?

 

[CW]

You can wrist the arms all you like, but if you still run the bushing on the frame end you are not going to be doing yourself much good. It is limited by the flex of the bushing. You would still need to put a JJ or heim on the frame end to make it worth while.

I have RE superflex joints on the frame end, wristing an arm might be polishing a turd but it's cheap and it doesn't require reworking my suspension that works well, I'm just trying to counter act the loss in travel from the poly C bushings. I'll see how it works if it doesn't work out well I'll try something else.

 

[XJ667]

I extended my and put a johnny joint in. I didnt wriste them. Heres a few pics one of the arms and two flexed. More than enough for me. I dont think it would flex near as much without extending them and using a JJ. But I could be wrong. If you need more flex than that just wrist the passenger side arm.

 

[hadfield4wd]

XJ667 How about some pictures of the steering. I looks like you retain the factory Ford knucles as well. Nice flex by the way. My HP44 is getting ready to go in as well. Is that a full width axle?

Matt

 

[0313]

I extended my and put a johnny joint in. I didnt wriste them. Heres a few pics one of the arms and two flexed. More than enough for me. I dont think it would flex near as much without extending them and using a JJ. But I could be wrong. If you need more flex than that just wrist the passenger side arm.

Is that a stock arm that you worked over or a custom arm purchased?


Looks good, and I dont think you would want anymore flex than that. Thats damn near ideal.

 

[XJ667]

Its a reworked stock arm. I cut the stock arm off about 8" or 9" from the wedges. Boxed it in and then sleeved it with 2x2x1/4 square tubing.

Heres a pics of the steering. I sleeved part of the ford tie rod and part of the XJ tie rod with 1" id sch 40.

 

[Gil BullyKatz]

Its a reworked stock arm. I cut the stock arm off about 8" or 9" from the wedges. Boxed it in and then sleeved it with 2x2x1/4 square tubing.

Heres a pics of the steering. I sleeved part of the ford tie rod and part of the XJ tie rod with 1" id sch 40.

You also seem to have made your own coil perches instead of flipping the Ford ones around...

Pretty sure I've seen that exact same setup before on here...

Is that 1/4" plate bent 90*?

 

[XJ667]

Yeah this is where I got the idea. And yes its 1/4 plate bent.

 

[Ghost]

I extended my and put a johnny joint in. I didnt wriste them. Heres a few pics one of the arms and two flexed. More than enough for me. I dont think it would flex near as much without extending them and using a JJ. But I could be wrong. If you need more flex than that just wrist the passenger side arm.

Ok do you have any in progress pictures of how you extended them? Look like some tube welded to them. WHat size? I'm a n00b at this and will be gettign someone to build it for me that is a pro, so I need all the details I can get and pictures! How long are they and do you have nay shots of the crossmember? Details my friend details! I need em! Ty all for the ideas.

 

[0313]

One thing you didnt do was channel the unit body for more strength.

Why not? Is it hard on it not to? We did 1/4" L- Channel for mine, and I noticed a huge difference in the strength of it.

 

[XJ667]

One thing you didnt do was channel the unit body for more strength.

Why not? Is it hard on it not to? We did 1/4" L- Channel for mine, and I noticed a huge difference in the strength of it.

No I didnt think of stiffing up the uni body. I got Angle iron to do it this winter. I havent noticed any difference in it not being done. But I am going to for the security of not ripping it off.

No progress pics. Cut the stock arm off about 8 to 9 inches from the wedges. Then box what left of the arm with 1/4 or thicker plate. Then I cut the 2x2x1/4 square tubing and slide it over the boxed in arm. Adjusted it for pinion angle and tacked it. Then drilled some 9/16 holes in the sides for welds and welded it out. As for length you can make them as long as you like. Mine are about 36" I think.

Mark

 

[BrettM]

You also seem to have made your own coil perches instead of flipping the Ford ones around...

Pretty sure I've seen that exact same setup before on here...

Is that 1/4" plate bent 90*?

basalt51 did it a while back, but his plate was much thicker. the 1/4 looks a bit thin for that large a span....

 

[rokjeep]

basalt51 did it a while back, but his plate was much thicker. the 1/4 looks a bit thin for that large a span....

I just used 1/4" as well, I was worried about that span as well so I put in another vertical support near the outer "C" and a gusset running from under the coil to the outer vertical pieces......I'll try to get some pics of my junk up here and see what you all think.