Flop resurrection

garrett83 said:
Bah! The wife sits there... You know what they say, happy wife happy life
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you on a Jeep, therefore she already isn't happy with you. even with my UCA thru the floor I never noticed that much of a loss in foot room
 
garrett83 said:
Yup, wife! We got married in September.

Oh, and she's pregnant and due in May... I'm going to have to add a third row seat for the, soon to be, 6 children we have combined...

I gotta get this thing done before that baby is born, otherwise it will be on hold for a while.
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damn dude, congrats! you move fast!
 
Love the build man, looks great. That cross member brings the wood.
 
COjeeper said:
Love the build man, looks great. That cross member brings the wood.
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Thanks! I tweaked knuckleheads design a bit to fit my own.

I don't have much For Progress or pictures, but I have decided to stick with the single Y link design. I ordered a couple 3/4" solid rod ends from polyperformance, and I found a local guy in Anaheim, RPB manufacturing, that makes 3/4, 16 threaded bungs that are 1.5" in diameter.

While waiting for parts, I have started stripping the engine compartment so I can start building the engine cage and coil over tie in points. Doing this has revealed a huge mess. I found a few broken connectors, split wires, bad vacuum hoses, and an air filter covered in oil... It's looking like an engine swap will be in the very near future, along with a complete re wire.

The fun never stops!
 
garrett83 said:
I ordered a couple 3/4" solid rod ends from polyperformance
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couple? One for a spare?

You can only use one at the point were the UCA meets the LCA
 
Updates!

I got the front almost complete, it is sitting on its own weight right now!! :greensmok

I ended up revalving the front coilovers. I used someone else's valve chart that I felt was a pretty close match. It's pretty much just a stack of .008s on the rebound, and a mix of .015 and .012s with a flutter stack on the compression. I'm still pretty clueless when it comes to shock valving, but with some trial and error and I hope to learn a little.

I still have some work to do on the engine cage, relocate the battery and fuse block, and build a new drive shaft. Then I can torque it all down.

I am currently working on the rear. I have spent about 6 hours messing around on the 4 link calculator and I think I have it down. In between crunching numbers and pulling my hair out, I was cutting up the rear and starting in on the new 4 link.
 
Chopping off weeks worth of grinding and plating that was done a year ago.



Templating and building the new rear axle bridge.






And the start of the lower link cross member.



I hope to have the 4 link done by the end of the week. Then I can get some more of the cage done, rear coilovers revalved and installed, new driveshaft built, bump stops in, then get a fuel cell set up and installed.
 
Interested how the stack of .008's will act for you. What's your flutter stack look like? I tried one before but couldnt get it to work well.
Looking good man!
 
Vanimal said:
Interested how the stack of .008's will act for you. What's your flutter stack look like? I tried one before but couldnt get it to work well.
Looking good man!
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Thanks bro, this is the chart I'm going off of.




And this is what I'm running on the front. My numbers are in metric because that's how bilstein does it.



It's not an exact match as I don't have a complete valve kit, but it's pretty close. I think in theory, a flutter stack works better if you are using soft springs with stiff compression valving, it allows the piston to compress easier at slow speeds. But then again, I have no idea what I'm talking about.
 
garrett83 said:
Thanks bro, this is the chart I'm going off of.




And this is what I'm running on the front. My numbers are in metric because that's how bilstein does it.



It's not an exact match as I don't have a complete valve kit, but it's pretty close. I think in theory, a flutter stack works better if you are using soft springs with stiff compression valving, it allows the piston to compress easier at slow speeds. But then again, I have no idea what I'm talking about.
Click to expand...

That's similar to what i had for compression actually. The issue i had was i went from a stack of 12's to a flutter stack of mostly 15's and it bottomed out considerably sooner than with the stack of 12's, and i didnt notice much ride quality improvement with the flutter stack to boot. So i ended up just going to a stack of 15's in my old shocks (i havent revalved my current ones yet but i know i need to badly, and it's a stack of 12's and 10's for rebound).
Also, on bigger bore shocks, it's good to have the first rebound shim at least .01" thick. .008's are known to get sucked into the piston ports on the compression stroke.
BTW, don't bother going to anything .02" thick, if you need more valving you can double up on the .015"s per diameter. Usually that's done on the 3 biggest shims. Start with one extra .015" big shim, then add one .015" for the next biggest size, and then for the next biggest size if you need more valving. If you need even more than that, you can go to 3 big shims, and so on down the line. It sounds like a lot but is still less of a jump than going to .02"s.

disclaimer: i am not an expert.
 
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