Few ?'s Insight Needed

[scbourne]

I have a 2000 cherokee. Sometimes I get a rough start, it has shut off a few times and has a light flutter at idle. Could this be a faulty Crank Position Sensor? I replaced spark plugs, coil boots (which I hate), cleaned throttle body and my Idle Speed Motor. With no luck I wonder about the CPS?

Also my trans (auto) has just started to shift late, taking the rpms up too high and producing a slightly harder shift. I really don't think the trans went bad. Could this be linked to the CPS or could it even be the Transmission Control Unit?

With both problems I haven got a true Check Engine Light. The few times it stalled the check engine light came on but when I restarted it the check engine light was off. By chance would my ECU still store a code even if the CEL turned off with the restart?

Thanks Guys, Any Info Would Be Great.
scbourne

 

[ColoradoRaptor]

It is not the CPS! Your symptoms are most likely related to Idle Air Control, Intake Air Temp, Coolant Temp or Mass Air. Check all your Battery/Ground cables too!!

 

[winterbeater]

Codes should still be in there. Transmission problem is often TPS.

 

[scbourne]

Well I know this ? has probaly been beaten into the ground but what is the correct way to test the TPS. If anyone can direct me to a link or even describe it to me.

 

[scbourne]

I have read a little online about adjusting my TPS which I understand. With that said if I were to buy a new TPS would it have to be adjusted when i put in on or would it already be in adjustment?

 

[MaxxXJ]

also, have you checked your transmission fluid lately?... it could be low and causing it not to build up enough pressure until late in the rpm range, my 84 chevy did that, i filled her up and all seemed to go away. and is your air filter clean? fuel filter? i'd chech those while your at it... a dirty air filter can make an engine run like dookie

 

[winterbeater]

Output from TPM should be 0.26 volts at idle and 4.49 at WOT. Input should be 5 volts. It has been suggested that you need an analog voltmeter to look for jumps in the voltage as you vary the throttle from closed to WOT.

 

[scbourne]

About the fluid level yes I checked the first time i noticed the problem, they were normal. What puzzles me is that most of the time it shifts fine, it has only happened 3 times in the last few days. I remember it was shifting funny on the way to the bank then on the way home it was back to normal. I did shut my jeep off and start back up in between. ??

 

[birchlakeXJ]

If you saw a check engine light, you DO have stored codes. Start by pulling those codes; guessing is futile. Use the technology your Jeep provides to you. It's possible that you have more than one issue. Start by troubleshooting the code with the lowest number. This is not a crank sensor problem.

BTW, the TPS on a 2000 is not adjustable.

 

[scbourne]

Cool thanks for that info, going to the local auto parts store to check for codes. I will post with what I come up with.

 

[scbourne]

Weel here's the code I came up with.
P1694

 

[birchlakeXJ]

Read the thread on this link...it speaks specifically to your fault code and diagnostic procedure to isolate. GOOGLE P1694 for other information which may help you as well....Good Luck!

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=63167


DTC P1694 will set if no CCd bus messages are received from PCM for 20 seconds or invalid messages are received for 20 seconds.

Possible Causes
CCD Bus (-) circuit open between PCM and TCM.
CCD Bus (+) circuit open between PCM and TCM.
Transmission CCD bus wiring damaged.
Faulty TCM.

 

[Sonex522]

Weel here's the code I came up with.
P1694

I'm currently dealing with that code, along with 1698 and 1687. My 2000 Cherokee runs perfectly, shifts fine, and the gauges work perfectly fine, but when the emissions test station plugs in, the CEL lights up.

I had a mechanic check and clear the codes, drove over 100 miles, confirmed still no codes, then the emissions station plugged in and set off the CEL and triggered the same three codes. This has happened twice so now the truck is going to the dealer to bleed me dry.

After driving about 25 miles, the CEL goes out on its own but the codes are still stored. It seems to take < 50 miles after clearing the codes to get back to test ready status.

Poking around, I found a severed wire under the driver's seat. That's getting fixed this weekend before I take it in. Anyone know what it's for?

 

[ColoradoRaptor]

Check Battery/Ground cables!!!!!!!! Replace, clean and tighten!! Will probably do the trick!!!

 

[scbourne]

Sounds like it is worth a shot. I have checked them out and they're in ok shape but if I continue to test the wireing harness and various sensor and find out it was a poor ground off my battery I think I will kick my own rear end.
Thanks