drilling new hole in leaf spring?

hey at least you had the balls to apologize
 
ok ya ill say im a dumb ass and feel especially stupid now. i just reread his and youre right i read it as him calling mine stupid but i now see he was meaning his own. my bad, im really sorry

:worship:
For having a set and apologizing :cheers:
 
ya that was dumb i just misconvieved how it was to be read, and here i am sayin i dont wanna start anything yet here i was starting crap over something i misread myself. anyway my appologies and i think im going to hit the jy tomorrow after work and take a look at other leaf options not mentioned in this poll http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1004504. im going to just run around with a tapemeasure and get rough measurments on things like ford expo's, rangers, and anything else i see with a 2.5 wide leaf that may not need drilling. ill post up if i find anything along the lines of what im lookin for.
 
I used a carbide burr in a drill press to widen the holes in my springs. Worked like a charm and was quick.

Yah - a good sharp reamer will do the same thing for you - keep it sharp and flooded.

But, he's talking about moving the centre pin in the main leaf, and drilling an all new hole (unless I managed to seriously miss something...)

You're still using the original hole and keep[ing it filled with screw, so you're in good shape. He's going to have that leftover hole that can cause him trouble...
 
ya that was dumb i just misconvieved how it was to be read, and here i am sayin i dont wanna start anything yet here i was starting crap over something i misread myself. anyway my appologies and i think im going to hit the jy tomorrow after work and take a look at other leaf options not mentioned in this poll http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1004504. im going to just run around with a tapemeasure and get rough measurments on things like ford expo's, rangers, and anything else i see with a 2.5 wide leaf that may not need drilling. ill post up if i find anything along the lines of what im lookin for.
Good for you apologizing. :)


Link to help you find the right size springs:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=775943
 
Just a little experience here on relocating center pin holes and or even welding main leaves. I have also used the carbide burr to enlarge and drill holes. Works well and is quick. But you cannot have the hole outside of the area covered by the spring plate. Under the plate, the leaf if properly bolted down flexes very little or not at all. So being able to be bent and not break is not a problem. That does not mean that any hole can be just on the edge. So the bottom line is that it can be moved about an inch. After that, you must have the proper main leaf or it will break at the hole.
 
This question always confuses me. I've built dozen of bastard packs for friends. I'm currently running a f150/s10 set up. I've never had a problem. Good drill and drill bit, do one leaf at a time.

:dunno: How the hell can it be so hard for so many people? And what up with useing a masonry bit?
 
I would also recommend going with a relocation purch VS drilling a new hole

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com....html?osCsid=b16bbdcaf852a9b28aa3dcace68dbbd7

Bronco%203inch%20perches.jpg
 
as stated befor, the goal is for the axle to stay where it is. i DONT want it moved back. im just lookin for a cheap method of getting a better shackle angle. it may end up a pointless attempt but im gonna try anyway
 
get springs with pin one inch further back from front, us relocation perches to correct it.
 
well looks like ill probly get some econoline main leafs, they measure 23.5 front and 29.5-30 rear, gains about 2 inches so it should be perfect, that .5 inch up front wond be enough to matter so its ok
 
and ya 1 inch longer in front and relocation perches would work but i really dont want to cut off the mounts i already had to move once on this 8.8 just to put it in ya know
 
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