does anybody feel like they still need more crawl with 4.88, AW4, 35s ?

BrettM

NAXJA Forum User
Location
michifornia
I am going to be back in NorCal this summer with my truck and plan to do a lot of wheeling, Rubicon and Fordyce several times each, maybe even a trip down to JV and the Hammers. By then I will have an AW4 auto, 4.88s in the diffs,locked front and rear, and 35s (probably MTRs). Does anyone have this gearing setup and find it lacking in California wheeling?

Even if it was, I don't really have the money to get any more gearing, so maybe it's a pointless question, but I'd like to not be disappointed. Of course anything will be better than the 3.55s, BA10, 33s, and open diffs I had last time I ran Fordyce.

There was a big thread on PBB about crawl ratios with autos, and everyone seemed to agree on 40-60 being best, but it seemed a little bit competition minded, and 37s and larger. I will be pretty close to that with the setup described above.

thanks

brett
 
Currently I'm running 4:56 w/ AW4 and 35"s and I would like to be lower. I feel the 4:56 were perfect when I had 31"s & 4:88's work well with 33"s. Goatman runs 5:13's with AW4 and 35"s and feels it is a great combo. I'd say with 35"s & AW4 5:13 or 5:38 is the way to go.
 
hmmm... I think I'm gonna have to suck it up and keep the 4.88s, I already got the gears for the D44 front, and have a hookup on a 4.88 third for my Toyota rear... plus D44/Toy8" don't match ratios deeper than 4.88s. Lots of guys run 5.29/5.38 but again would involve buying new and more expensive gears...

oh well, I'll have a big tranny cooler with an auxillary fan, so I'll be able to keep the tranny nice and cool...
 
It will be fine for Nor-Cal trails. The only time 4.88's get old is in JV.

You can always 4 to 1 your t-case.

Or get a stroker. :D

CRASH
 
CRASH said:
It will be fine for Nor-Cal trails. The only time 4.88's get old is in JV.

You can always 4 to 1 your t-case.

Or get a stroker. :D

CRASH


And what part of the stroker helps with gearing?

Must be a cross dressing thing!

:D

hinkley
 
CRASH said:
You can always 4 to 1 your t-case.

$$$

CRASH said:
Or get a stroker. :D

$$$



though maybe in a couple years I will have both, but 4 to 1 in a D300

Hinkley, the stroker doesn't help with gearing but with the extra torque and the right cam it would increase low-end power making gearing less neccesary.... nah! you're probably right, it's just a cross-dressing thing
 
Mark Hinkley said:
And what part of the stroker helps with gearing?

Must be a cross dressing thing!

:D

hinkley

The only reason I need more gearing is because my engine stalls.

More torque = no stalling.

CRASH
 
I'm running the AW4 with 4:88's & 35 MTR's. I'm quite happy with the setup wheeling wise. It's plenty of gear for the auto to work well in the rocks without over stressing. I wasn't happy with it driving down the freeway. The rig just didn't have enough power to pull it. It would down shift into 3rd at any hint of an incline. Driving up a mountain pass would mean 2nd gear at about 40mph. With the stroker in it now this isn't an issue anymore. If I were to regear again I would put in 5:13's. Considering you're running the auto you should worry more about drivability on road rather than off. IMO 4:88's are marginal with 35's & 5:13's would be better along with giving you better crawling capabilities.

Matt
 
FarmerMatt said:
I'm running the AW4 with 4:88's & 35 MTR's. I'm quite happy with the setup wheeling wise. It's plenty of gear for the auto to work well in the rocks without over stressing. I wasn't happy with it driving down the freeway. The rig just didn't have enough power to pull it. It would down shift into 3rd at any hint of an incline. Driving up a mountain pass would mean 2nd gear at about 40mph. With the stroker in it now this isn't an issue anymore. If I were to regear again I would put in 5:13's. Considering you're running the auto you should worry more about drivability on road rather than off. IMO 4:88's are marginal with 35's & 5:13's would be better along with giving you better crawling capabilities.

Matt

Matt:

I'm slightly taking this thread in a different direction, but...How extensive was your stroker rebuild? Was it just the crank/rods/pistons or did you fully massage it? How many ponies do you est. your stroker is putting out. Thinking this is the route I'll take when the time comes. TIA.
 
XJZ said:
Matt:

I'm slightly taking this thread in a different direction, but...How extensive was your stroker rebuild? Was it just the crank/rods/pistons or did you fully massage it? How many ponies do you est. your stroker is putting out. Thinking this is the route I'll take when the time comes. TIA.

He built his stroker by writing a check.......

:D

CRASH
 
I bought the motor complete from lazy Gary who bought it along with the rest of the jeep from another guy. The motor was built by a shop in Pheonix & has records for about $7000 worth of prep & parts. I'm guessing it's putting out in the neiborhood of 280hp, but I've never dynoed it or anything, could be more or less. The head was ported & polished with chevey 2.02 / 1.60 valves... & the list goes on & on. I feel I got a pretty good deal on the motor & it runs really good & reliable. Thanks Gary!

Matt
 
FarmerMatt said:
I'm running the AW4 with 4:88's & 35 MTR's. I'm quite happy with the setup wheeling wise. It's plenty of gear for the auto to work well in the rocks without over stressing. I wasn't happy with it driving down the freeway. The rig just didn't have enough power to pull it. It would down shift into 3rd at any hint of an incline. Driving up a mountain pass would mean 2nd gear at about 40mph. With the stroker in it now this isn't an issue anymore. If I were to regear again I would put in 5:13's. Considering you're running the auto you should worry more about drivability on road rather than off. IMO 4:88's are marginal with 35's & 5:13's would be better along with giving you better crawling capabilities.

Matt


I'm thinking this won't be much of an issue because I have a shortbed MJ that is quite a bit lighter than an XJ, also I have a Renix motor which has a lower power curve... I have 4.10s, 33s, and a .79 overdrive in it now and it's decent on the highway, could use a little more. With 4.88s, 35s, and .75 overdrive the rpms will be a couple hundred higher. Also, I will still have my 33 inch all terrains that I will put on for any long road trips.
 
Hell no. My whole kitchen is going to be torn out in two weeks. I could have been ready, but alas, work and home is killing me.

You know, being a bureaucrat is really taxing. :D

CRASH
 
FarmerMatt said:
I bought the motor complete from lazy Gary who bought it along with the rest of the jeep from another guy. The motor was built by a shop in Pheonix & has records for about $7000 worth of prep & parts. I'm guessing it's putting out in the neiborhood of 280hp, but I've never dynoed it or anything, could be more or less. The head was ported & polished with chevey 2.02 / 1.60 valves... & the list goes on & on. I feel I got a pretty good deal on the motor & it runs really good & reliable. Thanks Gary!

Matt


280 hp, that's a stone col' groove, my man!! Sounds like it's very well put together. Any problems at all with smog?
 
I posted a new thread about the smog. It went in yesterday for the biannual check & sailed through the first time. I was a very happy camper yesterday afternoon. As I stated before I can't verify any of the power or torque #'s, but by all rights it should be in that neighborhood. In reality I don't care either. It's got enough grunt to carry my butt down the road nicely & make the desert races back to camp much more interesting.

Matt
 
Thanks for starting this thread. I've been considering going to 4:56's when I move up to 35's, based solely on rpm/gearing charts :doh: . But after reading what Matt has to say about his highway performance I'm glad I didn't. I guess it'll be at least 4:88's now.

Rob D
 
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