Directions - map sensor adjuster for 98 4.0

cherokee4.0

NAXJA Forum User
Location
California
Well work was
Well work was slow today so I thought I’d make my contribution to this and the other Jeep forums I’m a member of.
I know many of you have been waiting for something like this. I apologize in advance for no photos as a digital camera is not available. Also, DO NOT DO THIS MOD IF YOU HAVE A CHIP OR ANY COMPUTER MODS!

First off, a little background…

What you will be building is a device that has a constant 12-volt input and puts out a constant 5+ volts output.
The output from this device will take the place of the existing source of 5-volt input power to your map sensor.

On my 98 4.0 (and probably on the 96 – 01 XJ 4.0’s) the map sensor is a black, flat rectangular device that is bolted into the driver’s side of your throttle body. It has a 3-wire connector that plugs into the front of it. It is the passenger side wire of the connector that you’ll need to splice into. This happens to be orange on my rig.

I followed this wire back a few inches and lifted it out of the black plastic 3-wire cover. I then snipped it and put a small female crimp-down connector on one of the snipped ends and a male crimp-down connector on the other snipped end. You should do the same cause when smog time comes you can just plug these 2 back into each other and hide them back in the plastic loom where they came from. Bend out of the way the end that no longer goes to your map sensor and see that it does not contact anything metal. This end is not used again until smog time.

Now the device itself takes (only a little) more skill and effort. Click on the link below and focus on the photo that is next to the text that reads “This shows how you would hook it together using the terminal strip.”

http://www.jeepbarracks.com/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=18


My device is much simpler looking than the photo. I simply grabbed a piece of ½ inch pine that I cut into a 2.5” X 3.5” rectangle. On this I screwed down the “terminal block” and wrote on the wood 12v input, 5v output and ground.
There’s no need for that “heat sink” thingee.

Yes, there’s only 3 wires involved in this guy. You’ll need to solder and assemble as their photo shows.

Now what no write-up tells you is the following…

Get a left hand finger under the left lowest corner of the radio/climate-control dash cover and a right-hand finger under the right lowest corner and pull STRAIGHT backwards. Have no fear because the 97+ years have metal clips that allow you to pull the thing on and off a thousand times without wear.

Pull the connector out of your cigarette lighter and use its positive for your 12v source and its black wire for your ground. The remaining wire you will punch through your firewall rubber grommet and connect to the spliced wire the goes to your map sensor. DO NOT TRY TO USE YOUR NOW-DEAD LIGHTER ANY MORE.

Before you connect to your map sensor, turn your ignition to the on position (not start position) and check that you’re putting out about 5 volts.

After connecting to your map sensor, start it up. You will now appreciate the fact that you’re locating your little wood-base adjuster next to your gear shift. Meaning, you can turn the screw thereby adjusting it while you drive! After you get the setting you want, you just rest the device at the bottom of your dash panel and snap it back on! Cool huh…

The cigarette lighter is your power source cause you only get power with the key in the on position.

If done and adjusted correctly, you will feel improvements in all pedal positions.

This is only for rigs that already have many flow improvements – exhaust, bored-TB, high-flow intake.

DISCLAIMER – THE AUTHOR TAKES NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY DAMAGES TO YOUR VEHICLE.
DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!

I’ve had this on my rig for several hundred miles and had to adjust it leaner (counter-clockwise) from my original setting about 5 times. The parts cost $17 at Radio Shack.

Good Luck!
 
Awesome, thanks for the info. Thats exactly what I am planning right now........ordered the parts yesturday. So what you are saying is 5 volts is too much?
 
Carts.

No. When I say 5volts I mean "around" 5 volts. Don't get hung up on the voltage my rig uses.

I have a lousy gauge that I swear reads just over 4 volts for stock. That gauge shows my best setting to be less than 5 volts. Again, its a lousy gauge. You need to just hook up yours, start the voltage at about 5 volts and go from there. This is the beauty of having the wood block just sit there next to your stick shift. You do a coupl runs to 80, you pull over, you turn it clockwise for richer or counter-clockwise for leaner and you do a couple more runs to 80.

When your done, you just rest the thing inside the dash cover so nobody sees it. Come smog time, you just roll up your new line to the map splice and tuck it next to that round brake thingee under your hood. Then u just plug your stock line back in for the smog guy.

Oh, did I say this is "for off-road vehicles that are never to be licensed for on-road use in California" :-)
 
I do plan on installing it inside the jeep and having it adjustable from the drivers seat. Did you use a volt meter to read the settings?
 
I've been running a MAP adjuster on my '92 XJ for more than 3 years without any problem and I have the JET Stage 2 chip, so you will NOT necessarily have problems if you have computer mods.
For the first year when I still had my highly modified 4.0 and Ford 24lb injectors, I had to reduce the voltage to 4.15v to lean the A/F mixture. This improved gas mileage and emissions dramatically.
After I swapped in the 4.6 stroker (1 July 2004), I had to increase the voltage to 5.15v (same injectors) to allow for the larger engine displacement and higher volumetric efficiency. Here's my write-up:

http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/MAP_adjuster.html
 
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