Dark Days... :(

[RCman]

Sorry to hear Rich!

How's the oil look?

If the oil is still clean and doesn't have any coolant contamination, go for it. Maybe slap some new bearings in and plastigauge em if you are feeling froggy.

If the oil has a bunch of sludge in it... new engine. Or pull it and rebuild it completely. Coolant loves bearings, but it sure aint mutual.

I don't think he'll have bearing issues if the coolant hasn't been in the oil long (from the sounds of it not many miles driving and an hour idling).

 

[Hammered]

This also happened to two JFC guys this month. this week doesnt look like its going to warm up... Plus its like 50 degrees in Alaska this week... WTF

J.E.E.P.

 

[pajeepman]

I got my new head for my 2000 from clearwater cylinder head(ebay store is odessa cylinder heads). longer warranfy from cch vs odessa. check pricing of all 3(alabama, cch, oddessa). cch was very nice and easy to deal with . 3 years and 50k miles and no issues. should get new head bolts as they are torque to yield. got mine from summit, jegs or amazon can not remember which. I got ARP's.

 

[OverlandZJ]

Rich, I have an 0331 head here I kept for a spare after swapping the wife's WJ engine out, yours if you can use it to get you back on the road.

The original WJ engine broke a piston skirt, I believe the head is usable.

PM if I can help..

 

[kastein]

Wj blocks are different from xj... I know you're saying just the head, but just warning you before anyone gets any ideas about swapping that whole motor.

 

[OverlandZJ]

Wj blocks are different from xj... I know you're saying just the head, but just warning you before anyone gets any ideas about swapping that whole motor.

Yeah, learned that lesson after I brought home the WJ. But.. BrownDog makes conversion mounts to put a WJ engine in an XJ.. just not the opposite.

 

[H8PVMT]

My he brown dog mounts are $350, ask me how I know

 

[kastein]

And then you have to deal with the accessory changes

 

[H8PVMT]

I should add that even with the custom mounts you still have to drill/tap 6 bosses

 

[John__505]

How's the oil look?

If the oil is still clean and doesn't have any coolant contamination, go for it. Maybe slap some new bearings in and plastigauge em if you are feeling froggy.

If the oil has a bunch of sludge in it... new engine. Or pull it and rebuild it completely. Coolant loves bearings, but it sure aint mutual.

As for putting an earlier motor in, there are a few options.
Earlier motor, that adapter plate Adam mentioned, adapt the coil pack mounting or put a Viper 6 stud coil pack in it like Talyn did.

Earlier motor, throw a new 0331 head casting or a TUPY 0331 on it.

Earlier motor, throw in an earlier wiring harness and modify your exhaust to match up with the old style manifold. Lose the precats, lose the extra O2 sensors, back to 97-99 style, the only thing I'm not 100% on is if the 00-01 dash harness will plug right into the 99-down engine bay harness or not. I've offered to help Anthony with his if he needs it, we'll go through the FSM pinout for the two connectors and repin things and document it.

Earlier motor, 00 Federal emissions ECU, 99 down header, adapt to 00+ exhaust system.

This all assumes your emissions testing won't check if the ECU is from the proper model year vehicle. I don't know if JTEC ECUs even report that.

This was done down here once and no it will not work, you will have to change the complete harness under hood and in dash along with the PC.
It will run but will turn on the check engine light and you will not pass the NJ Emission test. It all has to do with the O2's and the plugs. Pain in :gag:

I would replace the head with a after market unit. Most of the time even with coolant getting in the lower end. I will not destroy it.

Rich call me if you have a ? on this deal. I will let you know why.

 

[kastein]

I know you have to change the under hood harness, wasn't sure if you had to change the dash harness or just repin things a bit. The 97-99 and 00-01 instrument clusters have slightly different connectors and pinouts but speak the same data protocol so I figured repinning would be possible to a suitably motivated person.

 

[Rock2pus]

I drove it maybe 5 miles to get back home, and stopped actually 3 times to allow for cooldown and depressurized the system when the dieseling got out of hand..I checked the oil when I got home and just now, and though its almost black, there is no sign of any sludge, and no sign of coolant contamination at all, sooo...
I'm going with an aftermarket new-casting head...Alabama's are pricier than the others from what I've seen but its a new beefed-up casting, and no core nonsense that I really dont have time for. Thanks for the reminder on the headbolts, though. I'll just do ARP's and call it a day.
Not for nothing, but I'm pretty confident with the bottom end from its still-super-smooth idle, and the fact I was running Mobil1 in it..I wouldnt insist that that saved the bottom end, but it did get VERY hot, and I'm much happier just having to swap a head than another motor...this one only has 75k on it!

Thanks for the input guys,
Rich

 

[foxwar71]

Needs more LS swap......

 

[RCman]

Jeez guys, a whole harness swap and re-pins for a cracked head?

Rich, get a good, heavy duty "fixed" version of there 0331 that a few places sell and call it a day.

Good luck!

 

[Rock2pus]

Thank you bill, that's exactly what I plan on doing.

 

[pajeepman]

the cch heads are new beefed up versions like the alabama heads, may even come from same chinese foundry/factory. that was the impression I got when I was looking for head.

 

[kastein]

Jeez guys, a whole harness swap and re-pins for a cracked head?

Rich, get a good, heavy duty "fixed" version of there 0331 that a few places sell and call it a day.

Good luck!

It also eliminates the stupid exhaust system and a number of other issues, and I wasn't sure how much time vs money he wanted to spend on this. Gave the full list of options because of that - I'd probably go the all time, no money route personally, but a drop-in replacement head is a solid choice too.

 

[Rock2pus]

Point taken, Ken, but I've had no issues with the exhaust system or anything else up to this point, and messing with the exhaust and harness swaps/repins is a colossal waste of time in my opinion. Saving the money doesnt mean squat to me, my time is way more precious with all the other things I have going on right now.

 

[Rock2pus]

Update...ow that the daytime temps may actually be rising to above 30 here, I've been amassing parts and poking around a bit. There is no coolant in the oil at all, and the engine runs quiet and smooth..
Strangely, the crack that should be apparent looking through the oil fill cap is not there, although I've seen it can happen in other places. What is apparent is that the motor is weeping fluid down the passenger side of the block and coolant disappears rapidly now. I have actually driven it around the block a few times, and the heat works again and the is no CEL. It does feel down on power, like compression loss. As noted, I'm going to pull the head first to get a better look and to make sure the cylinder walls haven't scored.
One dumb question...bought a few things like oil, filter, gaskets, etc...at Advance today and noticed when I got home that I was given a 160 deg. thermostat. From previous experience I've always run 195's in my 89 and 98 before. Tried a 160 in both and they never ran real well...should I exchange it now before I go all out? Is there anyone running a 160 in their 01? With success?

 

[ROBZ95Xj]

One dumb question...bought a few things like oil, filter, gaskets, etc...at Advance today and noticed when I got home that I was given a 160 deg. thermostat. From previous experience I've always run 195's in my 89 and 98 before. Tried a 160 in both and they never ran real well...should I exchange it now before I go all out? Is there anyone running a 160 in their 01? With success?

return it, get a 195