Damaged parts replacement advice

94xjstud

NAXJA Forum User
Location
San Jose Ca
So after Hollister I need to replace some parts.

Bent drag link that I straightenish until I get my HD tnt customs replacement. Is there anything that I should do when i put it on? And No I am not considering changing or upgrading my full system yet.

Upper control arms are S shaped now. I have RC drop brackets that need to be installed so might as well do it now. I have some rustys lower's but I want to get all four new adjustables because the rustys have a manufactured bend in them and do not adjsut. I am semi budgeted and I know how long they need to be, just looking for some suggestions?

My rear brakes don't seem to be working any more. The brake pedal is very soft and I can't slow down nearly as fast. The front brakes get really hot while the rear stay cold to maybe luke warm. Could there still be mud and rocks stuck in the drums?

I wil need to to drain and refill my diffs. What fluid/thickness should I use?

I still need to clean out my engine/fans/radiator and most of underneath of the jeep is there any you guys can suggest anything that I should i do or look for?
 
HEY!!!! i bent my steering the same weekend at hollister. haha.
im actually making a solid tie rod now because i bend rods there a lot. haha...and i never can find zj v8 rods at the jy. well, wash the whole underside. get wet and dirty. but clean out your breaks, and check the fluid level.
 
So after Hollister I need to replace some parts.

Bent drag link that I straightenish until I get my HD tnt customs replacement. Is there anything that I should do when i put it on? And No I am not considering changing or upgrading my full system yet.

Upper control arms are S shaped now. I have RC drop brackets that need to be installed so might as well do it now. I have some rustys lower's but I want to get all four new adjustables because the rustys have a manufactured bend in them and do not adjsut. I am semi budgeted and I know how long they need to be, just looking for some suggestions?

My rear brakes don't seem to be working any more. The brake pedal is very soft and I can't slow down nearly as fast. The front brakes get really hot while the rear stay cold to maybe luke warm. Could there still be mud and rocks stuck in the drums?

I wil need to to drain and refill my diffs. What fluid/thickness should I use?

I still need to clean out my engine/fans/radiator and most of underneath of the jeep is there any you guys can suggest anything that I should i do or look for?


Drum brakes are an ongoing issue with getting mud trapped in them. Just pull the drums and wash the mud off using water at first, and then some brake parts cleaner. Not sure if you know how to adjust drum brakes or not, but they probably need to be tightened up a little.

Gear oil should be 80-w90 or better. If you like playing in the mud and water, then don't bother with synthetic until you get gears and lockers.

To clean then engine, just cover your distributor (and TPS/throttle body if you got an 87-90 4.0)with a plastic bag and spray it down with the garden hose. No need for the engine to be warmed up or to use any degreaser at this point. Get the mud off first and go from there if you want it extra clean.

Stay away from Rusty's parts. The guys around here usually recommend Rubicon Express parts, these guys are local and they make great entry-level bolt on parts.
 
x2 on the rubicon express parts. i bought my jeep with a four inch tomken kit, and i have replaced everything with rubicon express, except for my shackles and my custom control arms. oh, anybody interested in four inch tomken coils that ride great and flex amazingly?(not trying to jack your tread)
 
I got the control arms from RC because I thought that it would go better with the RC drop bracket, Yes I know that the RE would be fine, but over 100 bucks less and the RE UCA were about .25" to long which for me would probably end blowing my jeep up.

Cleaned the mud out of the brake drums seems to be braking better. When the tires were off the ground I could stop them in drive fairly quickly, but I could not stop them at all in reverse.
 
That $100 bucks less is quality, and a lack of quality can cost you alot more in the long run.

Some parts made by Rustys is really good stuff, but some parts are not even worth looking at.
 
Yeah I started with a rustys lift and have changed everything, but the front and rear springs. I think that the RC controls arms will do just fine. Especially since I got upper and lower.
 
I bought a new 3.5 inch rubicon lift from a member on here, and the quality is stunning.

I've yet to install it, but its good stuff, I have the 2 inch BB now.
 
if you need steering i think mpslayer on here has a full currie steering setup for a very good price, i would have taken it if i wasnt so broke
 
I finished replacing the broken parts. I've got the tnt heavy duty tie rod in, 4 all new adjustabe control arms and drop brackets from RC. They were adjusted evenly abd as small as possible but they pushed the axle to far farward. The coil spring is hitting sway link on the pass. side.

I am going to lift more. Right now I've got rustys 4.5 coils and 2" spacer's with warn's bumper and winch.

I am planning on going with the the RE 7.5 lift spring which I hope with the bumper and which will net around 5.5 "

I am also going to add a 1.25 boomerang shackle on the back.

I've got a hack and tap in box and a D44 in the yard that is going to replace my 8.25?

I still need to work on the 44, but when I lift again I think that I will need to do the H&T. Will the Front DS work with both the 44 and the 8.25

This is my DD
What do you guys think? Suggestions? Cautions?
 
currie steering uses tie rod ends that are not any larger then stock, so how much of an upgrade is it? answer: not very much.
ever wonder why they are ALLWAYS up for sale around here?
 
currie steering uses tie rod ends that are not any larger then stock, so how much of an upgrade is it? answer: not very much.
ever wonder why they are ALLWAYS up for sale around here?

The bolt is not any bigger, this is so it can fit in the stock pitman & knuckles, but the tie rod and drag link ends are alot bigger then stock.
 
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