D30 wheel bearings
- Thread starter pwa2
- Start date
RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
You havent mentioned your tire size,wheel size, or backspace.That all has an effect on bearing life also!
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
pwa2 said:
Half marks. If you feel a wobble, you'll want to isolate it, since it could also be ball joints (if it wobbles vertically) or a blown tie rod end (if it wobbles horizontally.)
Ideally, you'd use a dial indicator with a magnetic base to isolate what is or isn't moving - but, an observer who knows what to look for can also help.
I'm not saying that you're outright wrong - but that your test is used for a number of checks, and it's good to know what to expect in that situation, so you can isolate what is wrong when you note a problem...
If the tyre wobbles:
Vertically Only - check ball joints
Horizontally only - check your tie rod end
Horizontally and Vertically - check your bearings.
5-90
xrayjeeper83
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Jax, FL
Thanks for the info. I was wondering cuase I can shake mine side to side some but I know my tre's could use a changing.
Andrew
Andrew
- Location
- Colorado Springs, CO
Torque and anti-seize: Warning!!
It's my understanding that one needs to increase the torque applied to a fastener when anti-seize is applied to the threads. Whether it is more or less, 1/2 of the recommended torque sounds way low to me.
My .02.
Fred
It's my understanding that one needs to increase the torque applied to a fastener when anti-seize is applied to the threads. Whether it is more or less, 1/2 of the recommended torque sounds way low to me.
My .02.
Fred
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
Re: Torque and anti-seize: Warning!!
You've got it reversed.
Torque is given (unless otherwise specified) for "clean, dry" threads. Adding anything that can reduce friction will actually reduce installation torque by a certain factor...
Clean, Dry - 100% of given value
Teflon "pipe dope" - 80% of given value
Engine Oil - 75% of given value
Chassis Grease - 75% of given value
Light Machine Oil, Tapping Lubricant - 70% of given value
Never-Seez - 50% of given value
Note that threadlockers and RTV do not effect friction between the internal and external threads - therefore, you can use the full torque value for those compounds.
If you were to use the full torque value when using never-seez, you run the risk of pulling out the threads. Increase the installation torque, and you're going to pull out the threads! You don't want to do that, do you?
5-90
Fred said:
You've got it reversed.
Torque is given (unless otherwise specified) for "clean, dry" threads. Adding anything that can reduce friction will actually reduce installation torque by a certain factor...
Clean, Dry - 100% of given value
Teflon "pipe dope" - 80% of given value
Engine Oil - 75% of given value
Chassis Grease - 75% of given value
Light Machine Oil, Tapping Lubricant - 70% of given value
Never-Seez - 50% of given value
Note that threadlockers and RTV do not effect friction between the internal and external threads - therefore, you can use the full torque value for those compounds.
If you were to use the full torque value when using never-seez, you run the risk of pulling out the threads. Increase the installation torque, and you're going to pull out the threads! You don't want to do that, do you?
5-90
mikeny59
NAXJA Member #300
- Location
- NY and/or Fl.
This is my response from another thread, relevant to this topic, hope it helps...
minor hijack, i'm trying to do my d30 ujoints, hubs popped off easily even in the relatively salty area i live in, but my bench vise wasn't being very cooperative, so i threw the clips back in the joints and slapped front end together again (preventive maintenance, joints fine, need a bigger vise).
point is, pulling everything apart gave me the opportunity to check everything out up close and personal, gave me a feel on how not to mangle diff seal when r/r shafts, vacuumed out diff tubes, and most importantly, allowed me to wire wheel the daylights of the unit bearing and knuckle.
Then I mixed up some copper anti-sneeze (high heat properties) Boeshield spray (areonautic lube made by Boeing) some mobil 1 gear oil, and slathered this magical concoction between the hubs and knuckle. Maybe overkill, could have used regular anti-seize, but that's me. Also put a big glob of mobil 1 grease on the axle shaft adjacent to that crappy plastic washer, THAT part of shaft actually had enough rust on it that I swear it shrunk by a few thousands when I finished wire-wheeling it clean.
Point is, by tearing everything apart, got some good hands on experience, especially in cleaning/inspecting, even actually seeing rear rubberish seal of hub. I don't imagine well in three dimensions, holding that hub in my hands and pulling/pushing in different directions was worth the price of admission, yes zen-like...
Makes one appreciate the high cost of Timkens.
minor hijack, i'm trying to do my d30 ujoints, hubs popped off easily even in the relatively salty area i live in, but my bench vise wasn't being very cooperative, so i threw the clips back in the joints and slapped front end together again (preventive maintenance, joints fine, need a bigger vise).
point is, pulling everything apart gave me the opportunity to check everything out up close and personal, gave me a feel on how not to mangle diff seal when r/r shafts, vacuumed out diff tubes, and most importantly, allowed me to wire wheel the daylights of the unit bearing and knuckle.
Then I mixed up some copper anti-sneeze (high heat properties) Boeshield spray (areonautic lube made by Boeing) some mobil 1 gear oil, and slathered this magical concoction between the hubs and knuckle. Maybe overkill, could have used regular anti-seize, but that's me. Also put a big glob of mobil 1 grease on the axle shaft adjacent to that crappy plastic washer, THAT part of shaft actually had enough rust on it that I swear it shrunk by a few thousands when I finished wire-wheeling it clean.
Point is, by tearing everything apart, got some good hands on experience, especially in cleaning/inspecting, even actually seeing rear rubberish seal of hub. I don't imagine well in three dimensions, holding that hub in my hands and pulling/pushing in different directions was worth the price of admission, yes zen-like...
Makes one appreciate the high cost of Timkens.
Last edited:
I have 33x12.5 GOodyear WRangler MTR on American Racing Black Steel 15x8 inch wheels with 4" backspacing.
The mechanic rocked the wheel in and out while i was watching and said "wheel bearings" so I'll go ahead and check that the new one's they installed did in fact stop this wobble. If that didn't do it, I'll assume my bearings are ok, and I'll check ball joints and tie rod ends. It still floats and sways side to side quite a bit on the road...
The mechanic rocked the wheel in and out while i was watching and said "wheel bearings" so I'll go ahead and check that the new one's they installed did in fact stop this wobble. If that didn't do it, I'll assume my bearings are ok, and I'll check ball joints and tie rod ends. It still floats and sways side to side quite a bit on the road...
lawsoncl
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- North Idaho
andyr354 said:
The unit bearing I pulled apart certainly looked like the two inner races seat against each other, "bottoming out" and the bearing preload is determined by the internal dimensions. That's why applying more torque doesn't tighten up the bearing. I'm betting the original poster is not torqueing correctly, thinking he's supposed to be tighten snug and backoff 1/4-turn as you would on many tapered roller bearings.
Not quite related, the rear wheel bearings on a non-clip D35 are the same way. They just need enough preload to keep the bearing pressed together.
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