Construction help/question

[zfinger]

So heres the quick summary. My parents bought an old farmhouse like 5 years ago where we live now. It's the house of their dreams so I know they will own it pretty much forever. And we have a garage set back against the tree line. My dad lets me use the garage to work on my car, but I cant store it in there through the winter. And I dont want my 240sx sitting outside once its finished...

So I may propose this idea to my dad. I want to build/have someone build a carport off the back of the garage. It would be against the treeline so no one would be able to see it. Theres already a p00pty little shed back there full of my car parts that could be torn down and the stuff moved to the carport. I just want a slanted roof, and the back/side enclosed. I could make a door for the front but I'm not concerned with that at the moment. Having concrete put down would be nice, but digging up the grass and putting in gravel may have to do. Does 10'x20' sound like enough to back a car in, and still store some boxes and walk around the car? I would pay for it with the note that I'm allowed to keep my car/a car in it forever and ever, or until I get my own garage and house.

And if any of you guys have ever done construction how much would having this built by a contractor cost? I may do it myself with the help of a neighbor, he stick built his house so he knows what hes doing. Give me a rough estimate of what bulding a carport may cost.

 

[SCW]

you'd have to make up a parts list and check the prices in your area, there is a lot of variation in lumber cost.

If you want a cheap roof without walls youi could make an attached pole barn. Get enough poles to space them every 8-10 feet, run 2(2x10)s (nailed together) over the top of them and 2x6 rafters every 2 feet from the existing barn to 1-foot over the 2x10s. Make sense? Then get enough sheathing to cover it, tar paper and shingles will finish it off.

You will also need some 2x8 for a ledger on the side of the barn you attach to, for someothing to nail the rafters into.

For now, put only the posts in concrete, later you can finish the floor if you want.

So-
(4) or (5) posts (treated 4x4)
(11) 10-ft 2x6
(7) sheets 4x8 wafer
(2) 10ft 2x8
(2) 10ft 2x6 or 2x4 for facia or blocking inside the rafters or both
(4) 10ft 2x8 or 2x10 for header over posts
(2) square of tar paper & shingles - 2 square means 200 sq ft.

 

[RichP]

You have a bunch of stuff to look into before you even think about what kind.
1. Property lines, setback from the property line.
2. Permits
Personally just from your picture I'd consider adding on to the front of the existing garage. that looks like at least a 20x20 or more. You could put up
several poles as uprights and put a roof over it like a big overhang.
You could also put a leanto on the back side 12 ft x the width of the garage.
Alot of how you do it is also going to be driven by the frost footings in maine, etc.

 

[zfinger]

Well I lucked out I guess because my dad is on the planning board, so I know we can get a permit no problem. Plus weown a little ways back. Also I think the car-port is the lean-to that was mentioned. It would be on the back slating away.

Do you guys think I do this for under a grand? 2 walls and a roof is pretty basic? I'm ok with parking on the grass if I have to. Its just for storage, not working.

If any of you guys are contractors what would you quote me for this job? I do think I'll end up doing it myself with the help of my neighbor though. Thanks for the info guys.

 

[mylt1]

if you do it yourself you can do just a simple lean to type car port for under a grand. but i would go bigger than 4X4 i would do either telephone poles or a min. of a 4X6 because of the snow you get up north. also 2 square wont be enough to figure that out you will have to determin if your just gonna have a flat roof or if your gonna do a normal pitch roof. if you do a flat roof you will have to determin slant so that water runs off correctly. i can get you a rough drawing if you would like. i was in construction for 6 years total that includes summers when i was in school.

 

[8Mud]

My local Home Depot sells kit car ports, patio roofs and galvanized garages. The wood kit car port is cheaper than buying the lumber alone (the lumber usually comes treated) and you get a roof with it. Our Home Depot has a bunch of do it yourself books. Digging some holes, making up some forms and pouring your own footings, is no big deal.
I've made garage floors and patios, out of compacted sand and cement mix over a bed of compacted soil and pure sand. Inside of a wood form to keep things level. And compacted the stabilized sand/cement/lime mix in layers, till it was about 4" deep (lightly watered it) and then layed concrete 18"X18" patio stones on top. I usually make the floor semi floating, a mix of sand, cement and lime, with poured concrete borders or curb stones. We get hard freezes here and my floors have never moved or buckled. Tree roots will move them around a bit though. My garage floors, walkways and patios have been in place for decades, the semi floating system works.

 

[corbinafly]

I don't know how much snow you get there, but a flat roof would not be wise is you get heavy snowfall. You'd be wise to seek the advice of a structural engineer if you can. Maybe your dad know one.

As mentioned by others, you need to make sure the footings for the posts at deep enough below the frost line or they'll heave upwards during a freeze.

I'm a contractor on the west coast so I'm not too familiar with all the details of building in a cold climate, but I know the basics.

Oh yeah,...no shingles for a flat roof. The water will get underneath them too easily.

Just my $0.02.

Kyung

 

[zfinger]

Ya, no way I would go with a flat roof in Maine. Especially because its partially under a large pine tree, the snoww bulds up on the branches, then dumps hard onto the small sheds roof. Sounds like its time for me to make a trip to Home Depot and check into these carport kits.

 

[8Mud]

The footings aren't much more than holes in the ground 10-12" in diameter and four feet deep. A small raised form and fill it up with concrete and stamp it a little, with a long rod, to remove the air bubbles. Set the anchors in the concrete when it's still wet. Bolt the uprights to the anchors and don't put the wood directly on the concrete, either use a plastic or tar paper spacer, actually a little air gap is best. If you get an open car port, wind is more a concern than snow. Closing one end with shear panels, isn't a big chore and really increases the strength, especially if the shear panels are butted up against the cross pieces. You have to keep the wind in mind, two open sides so it blows through or one open side pointed where it rarely blows. I wouldn't attach it to an existing structure if it can be avoided. Butt it up against an existing structure, but don't connect it if possible, design it to be self standing.
Snow weight can be factored. A self cleaning roof needs a pretty sharp angle.
One reason I prefer galvanized steel roofing, that stuff will really hold some weight, depending on the type, and usually bows way before it bends. Plastic gets brittle in the cold and looses some of it's strength (flexibility). Think about using galvanized water pipe for the roof cross braces, check the local metal salvage yard.
I made a complete patio with galvanized pipe (three closed sides) It's been up there for thirty years. Wind, weather, snow it's seen it all, even a 5 year old dancing on it. Plastic ripple sheet roof, anchored with hooks so it can flex some.
When I build a shed, patio or car port, I always keep the lift from the wind in mind. I'm not as much concerned about it crushing from the weight of snow (no matter how you build it, there may be a one in a century snow fall), but lifting and taking off in a Strong wind. They often have a really large sail area.
Look for sales at the Home Depot or reduced items.