Comanche lift kits?

Why do you want to go SOA so bad? If its for cost, understandable. If not, I would really keep it spring under. There is less axle wrap and overall work that way. The only downfall I see is dragging your u bolts through the mud, unless you get square ones and flip em over.
X2 , your going to get a better ride quallity including more suspension travel. Remember, your diff is the lowest point to clear usually. There are also u-bolt skids if your worried.
I second XCM's warning, be careful, Hellcreek on the other hand has a great reputation.
Anyone try rearching chevy 64's yet?
 
Rustys also does a 4.5" SPOA rear kit as well as the spring replacement 4.5" kit...

and this is an 18 month old thread, I'm sure the OP has found an answer by now.

Regarding going SOA, I'm at nearly 5" SUA, and will be going to SOA. I'd rather build a traction bar than keep dragging those ginormous sping plates on the ground. Not to mention that it puts the shocks in a very vulnerable location. I've bent both shock mounts and completely detroyed a shock in the rocks.

If it's going to be a mud truck it's not abig deal. If you play in the boulders, do SOA, or you'll hate the spring mounts getting hung up all the time.
 
and this is an 18 month old thread, I'm sure the OP has found an answer by now.

Regarding going SOA, I'm at nearly 5" SUA, and will be going to SOA. I'd rather build a traction bar than keep dragging those ginormous sping plates on the ground. Not to mention that it puts the shocks in a very vulnerable location. I've bent both shock mounts and completely detroyed a shock in the rocks.

If it's going to be a mud truck it's not abig deal. If you play in the boulders, do SOA, or you'll hate the spring mounts getting hung up all the time.

I agree. The factory spring plates on the MJ are comically large. And with your 20 year old springs it shouldn't put you up too high.
 
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