calling on karma

Swamprat

NAXJA Forum User
Location
little Tijuana
yup, im in over my head with this engine swap. i currently have no car to drive to work, and i need to get my jeep running again asap. i've never swapped an engine, and i really havent ever screwed with stuff under the hood. i'll defiantly need some help getting my jeep back on the road.
 
Do you have everything that you need as far as parts already and tools? Sensors, gaskets, fluids, etc.

Are you swapping block and transferring your Renix stuff (head, intake, exhaust)over to new(used) block or you still trying to do an HO swap which by the ways is ALOT of work
 
well i have the block, intake, and exhaust from the HO and a set of 19# injectors. pretty much i just want to get all that in the manche. i want to leave as much renix crap as i can for now, i just need it moving under its own power and were it can rely on its own power. then later when i can afford not to have my manche running i want to convert to open cooling and all that good stuff.

as much as tools, i have basic stuff. im buying an engine stand off a friend for $20, and borrowing a hoist. all the sensors are still there, and i have a matching trans. i figured with the wiring its an easy swap. but i havent the slightest clue...
 
i figured with the wiring its an easy swap. but i havent the slightest clue...

Nope not that easy. You have to rewire alot. It's not just switching out motor and easy unplug and ug in new wire harness. Need engine bay harness, underdash harness, new( non Renix computer) or used, have to rewire the whole ignition as far a fuel is concerned. Fuel line set ups are different and many others things that make it not a quick switch to just get it to run right.

That said just use the HO block and put all the Denis stuff on it. It will be MUCH easier and faster to get you going again.
 
No just like I said. Use the HO block only and put all the Renix stuff on it. It will work fine that way. Then everything will hook back up to the factory wiring and you will not have to worry bout it
 
What exactly is wrong with the engine that is in it that's makes you want/need to swap it out?
 
i've thought about swapping blocks, and getting new things in the engine while its apart. it seems labor intensive, but i can turn nuts and bolts all day. but i cant do anything with wire and electrical stuff to save my life.

as for reasons for wanting to get rid of the renix. its tired, ODO read 200xxx+ and i would like to get a new ticker in there before i need one.

but honestly if i can get it running again, i'll probably not screw with it. those 4.0's are heavy and in the trunk of one of the cars i am hauling to the scrapyard might give me a boost in the wallet i really need.
 
I've got 286xxx on mine, and all I had to do was replace the rear main seal. The main bearings still looked good, but worst case you just need some new main bearings,and maybe refresh the valvetrain. I think they are @ $100.00 for a set of main bearings, and get some assembly lube too! Just my 2 cents worth!:wave1: If it ain't broke......
 
What have you checked on it yet? Did it just shut off or did it make noise when it did. How is the oil pressure? My black 98 has 379,000 granted we had to do a headgasket when we got it only to find out it needed a head but thats all we have done to it. So need to do a little diagnosing befor you really call it dead. Jay has a couple links he will pm you later about Renix diaging.
 
nothing, i've been working everyday since it broke down. but i found a thread on here where the same thing happened to some kids jeep that happened to mine. aws for when it shut off, just stalled out the first time. then cranked ran for a few seconds and sputtered to death. after about 10 minutes of that, there was one big backfire and it wouldnt fire up again. it would still turn over, untill the battery died.

sunday when i actually have time, i'm checking the fuel filter, plugs, compression, and dizzy timing. and charging the battery of course
 
Don't forget. CPS, fuel pump ballast resister, fuel pump relay to name a few more things to check. And the distributed is technically not adjustable with out first making it adjustable. You will have to search for threads on that but doubt you will need to do that.

Take off ignition module and get it tested, the parts stores CAN test it IF they have the adaptor so do not let then tell you they can not test it with out first atleast looking for the adapter. The adapter will have a bunch of alligator clamps on the end to hook up to the module.
 
yes cps,(crank position sensor) try un pluging it and pluging it back in...sometimes that will work for a startup....but not for long...lol
 
im a practitioner of KISS sometimes, im starting out with filters, vacuum lines, spark, then fuel, and if all those are good and it still doesnt run, then im checking sensors, timing, etc etc.
 
seeing as i need the truck for school and work i gave in and took it to a mechanic my family uses. i didnt take the distributor out because i didnt want to mess up the timing if the timing was still good. well he took it out and the Cam gear and distributor gear are pretty chewed up he said. im trying to understand what would cause the two gears to go bad? just normal wear over time?

Mitch

Bad news, but now you've gotten to the culprit. Time for new cam, lifters, thinner head gasket, in/ex combo gasket, and valve cover gasket. Make sure to keep rockers and pushrods in same location and orientation.

well he threw in a new distributor and its running now, dont know how long that cam gear will last though.

things are starting to look expensive, luckly i have a discount at work :D
 
If you didn't live so dam far away I would go up there and help you get it running....
 
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