Building a 70mph rock crawler.

[Tony_SS]

On the tie rod, what the pros and cons of over vs under the knuckle?

 

[zachandandy]

The tie rod needs to match the drag link. The pros of the drag link being over the knuckle are flatter drag link, more droop before the steering binds, and it keeps it up out of the rocks. If you raise the steering mounting location then you need to go ota on the trac bar. Design and build the steering then mount the trac bar where it needs to be to remain parallel to the drag link and as close to the same length as you can.

 

[floyd]

This was my last project... sold and shipped to the Netherlands.

Sorry to jump back to a non-xj reply, but that is one sweet Monte! I've had a dozen from several different generations, still have a 1972 I bought right after college in 1990. It is currently in drag racing trim but is going to get the full pro-tour treatments starting next fall. Excellent work on yours, Tony!

 

[zachandandy]

The trac bar needs to match the drag link. The pros of the drag link being over the knuckle are flatter drag link, more droop before the steering binds, and it keeps it up out of the rocks. If you raise the steering mounting location then you need to go ota on the trac bar. Design and build the steering then mount the trac bar where it needs to be to remain parallel to the drag link and as close to the same length as you can.

Fixed it, trac bar not tie rod.

 

[PahlMc]

Assuming no gnarly control arm angles and control arm bushings are in good condition, trac bar and steering should be the focus. My track bar bushing split on a crawling trip and staying in my lane was fun. Small things matter!

 

[XJEEPER]

Great example of why I recommend running heims or spherical joints on the trackbar.

 

[sunburned]

Yup, I went from the RE track bar that had one bushing and one 'RE joint' to heims on both ends and hems on all the steering. And weld the track bar frame mount to the unibody.

 

[Tony_SS]

I did buy a RE track bar with heim, but heard it starts 'popping' in no time. So I got a TRE for it. I've read some pros/cons to heims/Jonny joints/TRE and its really hard to come up with a consistent conclusion on them.

I feel like I'm hodge-podging this build together and am trying to gather info so I can do it right and do it once for my intended purposes. I hate having to source parts from different companies.. I wish there was a solid go to vendor that covered all the bases. I'm not trying to climb mountains, so it doesnt have to be an all out "best of the best" for everything. I just want an all around capable touring/expedition machine.

I would rather spend the coin and get it done right. Now I'm looking at going from my 3" lift to a 4-4.5 one so I can run a TnT long arm kit. But I'm still looking into it.

My idea is a low COG build, cut and trim all kinds of room for flex and what I'm reading about long arms is they are just better all around so I'm leaning that way for now, but still learning along the way.

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

I did buy a RE track bar with heim, but heard it starts 'popping' in no time. So I got a TRE for it. I've read some pros/cons to heims/Jonny joints/TRE and its really hard to come up with a consistent conclusion on them.

I feel like I'm hodge-podging this build together and am trying to gather info so I can do it right and do it once for my intended purposes. I hate having to source parts from different companies.. I wish there was a solid go to vendor that covered all the bases. I'm not trying to climb mountains, so it doesnt have to be an all out "best of the best" for everything. I just want an all around capable touring/expedition machine.

I would rather spend the coin and get it done right. Now I'm looking at going from my 3" lift to a 4-4.5 one so I can run a TnT long arm kit. But I'm still looking into it.

My idea is a low COG build, cut and trim all kinds of room for flex and what I'm reading about long arms is they are just better all around so I'm leaning that way for now, but still learning along the way.

the problem with the RE1600 trackbar isnt the heim, its the stock trackbar mount. it wallows out quite quickly. you can remedy this by buying a double sheer trackbar bracket. you can machine spacers down on a lathe to fit a narrower bracket, or ruffstuff offers a 2.5" "wide" misalignment spacer that will for wider brackets that are intended for a johny joint. i run the RE double sheer bracket, which has a 2" mounting width with my RE1600 track bar.



also, on long arms... considering i got them for $50, i have been very happy with my drop brackets. my only gripe is how close the UCA is to the pinion on the drivers side. with that said, long arms > drop brackets. im on ~ 4.5" of lift running 35s. bump stopped accordingly, itll spit out a coil if i let it.

 

[Vanimal]

Also, RE used the cheapest heims possible. Buy a quality FK heim or something and you'll never have a problem. I think i got 3 months out of my RE heim, and i have probably 2 very hard years on the heim i replaced it with, which is currently being used in a different track bar i made.