Broke oil pressure sensor thing- I can drive right?

[jpars]

So I broke that little stem off above the oil filter while changing my oil. The part screwed into the block is still attached, just the black little stem came off. It has a green end to it which seems to insert into the more metallic looking thing screwed into the block.

Searches showed me this is part of the oil pressure sensor, I can drive with this, right? It will just read an improper sensor?

This is a DD and I need to be able to drive before I get this fixed.

COuld I wait 2 weeks to get this thing fixed? Thanks.

 

[jpars]

please any help would be great. it is just a dash feeder- it serves no mechanical function necassary to the jeep, right? So I can keep on driving for a while? I am moving soon, and want to get it fixed where I am going. Thanks

 

[old_man]

If when you start it you don't have a leak, you should be fine.

 

[jpars]

there was no leak, I will go out and run it for a few minutes and make sure it doesnt spew anything. Then I should be ok, right? Would it be alright for the 300 mile drive I have to make when I move? I am just in a bad spot right now and can't get that fixed.

 

[5-90]

Then go get a pipe plug - I believe it's 1/8" NPT. A brass plug (won't seize, easier to remove) shouldn't run you more than a couple of bucks. Apply some Teflon paste, install, and fix later.

The oil pressure sensor works on a diaphragm and a variable resistance (I won't go into that right now...) but without the end of it, there's not much support for the diaphragm. On a long drive, it could blow out on you - and your oil as well. Put in a pipe plug and you're good, just keep an eye on things manually.

If you can't get a brass plug, galvanised iron will be fine - but definitely use Teflon paste! Don't use plastic - the heat will soften it and it will blow out handily.

Simply remove the plug when you replace the sensor - problem solved.

 

[jpars]

so just screw the pipe plug into the metal piece that is in the block? So you are saying that it can actually blow and spew oil out of that little metal thing attached to the block? Only the black plastic piece has broken off.

 

[jpars]

The way it is broke off, I am almost tempted to just duct tape it really hard right back on there. It fits back in perfectly.....

 

[Shorty]

remove the entire assembly and screw a plug into the hole in the engine. Any other "solution" will be asking it to leak at the most unfavorable time and you'll have no idea it's leaking (since it's broken) until you are stranded on the side of the road with a seized engine. That would be bad.:explosion

 

[jpars]

remove the entire assembly and screw a plug into the hole in the engine. Any other "solution" will be asking it to leak at the most unfavorable time and you'll have no idea it's leaking (since it's broken) until you are stranded on the side of the road with a seized engine. That would be bad.:explosion

that sounds like the best idea yet. Do I need to do the teflon paste stuff or not? Cant I just screw a plug into it and leave it at that?

i havent tried to take that metal peice on the block off. does it just screw right out?

thanks.

 

[Shorty]

yes, it screws out-- and yes, you want the plumbers poop. Although in a few hundred miles you shouldn't need to worry about the plug getting stuck, you'll have peace of mind that it's not gonna leak.

P.S. I'm pretty sure this is what Jon (5-90) was saying also

 

[5-90]

that sounds like the best idea yet. Do I need to do the teflon paste stuff or not? Cant I just screw a plug into it and leave it at that?

i havent tried to take that metal peice on the block off. does it just screw right out?

thanks.

Don't take the metal bit off of the engine block. Frankly, I'm not altogether certain you can (I've not tried yet.)

Yes, remove the remnants of the sensor and screw a plug in its place. I'm pretty sure it's 1/8" NPT, now that I think of it - you should be able to find a 1/8" pipe plug at your local hardware store.

Teflon paste is always advised on pipe thread joints. For self-grounding sensors (like the oil pressure sensor, and most coolant temperature sensors) that connect with only one wire, use RTV copper instead. If you use a brass plug, you can probably get away without using the PTFE paste - but if you use iron, I'd consider it mandatory. You should keep Teflon/PTFE paste around anyhow... A small tube should run you a buck. The plug another buck or so. And, you now have a solution that should not blow out on you (unlike the remnants of the sensor you now have.)

 

[jpars]

Alright. it sounds like there is a hardware store trip in order. So just get a 1/8 pipe plug, and a small tube of teflon paste, paste up the threads a little, and just screw it into where the black stem had attached before?

 

[Shorty]

remove the entire sensor and plug the hole. If you're not sure what to remove, go to Partsamerica.com and look it up for your Jeep-- there's a picture of it on that site (woulda pasted it here, but I'm a computer retard).
Remove everything in the picture-- it screws right out.:clap:

 

[5-90]

Alright. it sounds like there is a hardware store trip in order. So just get a 1/8 pipe plug, and a small tube of teflon paste, paste up the threads a little, and just screw it into where the black stem had attached before?

Bingo!

 

[funvtec]

not to jack the thread but it seems like his question has been solved.

i just have a quick simple question.

my 88's gauge is always pegged and doesn't move will replacing the sensor fix the problem?

 

[5-90]

not to jack the thread but it seems like his question has been solved.

i just have a quick simple question.

my 88's gauge is always pegged and doesn't move will replacing the sensor fix the problem?

Probably. I believe that when the sensor fails, the gage swings to "full reading."

Also, check to make sure that the electrical connector hasn't come loose. As I recall, a regular 1/4" "spade-type" quick-connect can be used to reterminate that lead, if required. But, it does work loose over time.

 

[Shorty]

pegged pressure gauge comes from little or no resistance to ground in the wire to the sending unit or in the sending unit. Best check is to remove the wire and start the Jeep. If the gauge is still pegged, you've got a short to ground in the wire before the sending unit -start tracing it down looking for a chafe or break. If the gauge reads no pressure when the wire is disconnected, you've got a short to ground in the sending unit (or REALLY high oil pressure)

 

[jpars]

Bingo!

Eek, went out for a second look. I dont think the metal part can have a plug screwed into it, when i finger in it inside I feel no threads, and it is not deep at all, just a moveable pushable filmy thing that must be the sensor.

I think I might have to take it off and stick a plug where it is attached to the engine.

 

[5-90]

Eek, went out for a second look. I dont think the metal part can have a plug screwed into it, when i finger in it inside I feel no threads, and it is not deep at all, just a moveable pushable filmy thing that must be the sensor.

I think I might have to take it off and stick a plug where it is attached to the engine.

That's what we've been telling you to do. Remove the remnants of the sensor, screw a 1/8" NPT plug into the hole, and get a new sensor when you have time/money. Just don't let it go too long - you'll keep thinking something's wrong when the oil pressure gage stays pegged.

 

[jpars]

That's what we've been telling you to do. Remove the remnants of the sensor, screw a 1/8" NPT plug into the hole, and get a new sensor when you have time/money. Just don't let it go too long - you'll keep thinking something's wrong when the oil pressure gage stays pegged.

Oh okay, I was under the impression thats what one guy said, but you wanted me to screw it physically into the metal thing, as opposed to removing it all. Understood now. Thanks