Brake line flaring tool
- Thread starter bails85
- Start date
OverlandZJ
NAXJA Member # 101
- Location
- Bristol,PA
I picked up a double flaring setup at NAPA when i needed it in a pinch, think i paid close to $90, probably cheaper on ebay and amazon. This works fine for me unless i'm working on a hardline to an ABS pump, which needs a bubble flare.. i made due with a double flare not totally collapsed.
Youtube has plenty of vids to teach you the ropes.
Youtube has plenty of vids to teach you the ropes.
I've absolutely hated the bar & yoke style flare tools. I picked up a plier style flare tool 10 years ago, from JCWhitney of all places (no longer available there.) Since then, I've found it on a few hardware store shelves, unfortunately without the double flare button adapters. I've even made a good double flare on the Jeep, upside down and dripping brake fluid.
http://www.generaltools.com/152--PLIER-FLARING-TOOL_p_127.html
http://www.generaltools.com/152--PLIER-FLARING-TOOL_p_127.html
souske
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- The land of competition
I used the HF flare set. Not the best quality, but the price was right, and with a little practice, good flares can be made.
Hint: lube the section to be flared, inside and out, as well as the button adapter inside, and the little dimple where the clamp point goes.
Hint: lube the section to be flared, inside and out, as well as the button adapter inside, and the little dimple where the clamp point goes.
fasteddieyj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hanover, PA
I bought a set from Autozone a probably about 2 years ago and have used it several times all with good results.
- Location
- Roanoke VA
There are three types of flares; single, double, bubble
The XJ uses bubble flares at the MC (for the dual diaphragm models) but otherwise all other flares are double. The factory lines are hard as hell and will give you trouble flaring them. The store bought line flares much more easily.
I use the bar/yoke style flaring tools and they work fine you just have to get the line clamped tightly into the die or it will slip and give you a substandard flare that will leak.
I got mine off of amazon and it worked well. (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00061SGG8/ref=oss_product)
2 main points that will make or break your flare.
1. Tighten the crap out of the clamp thing!
2. Make the distance of line protruding from the clamp the height of the base of the flare die for that size line.
Everything else is pretty obvious.
Kind of a bad angle go to the first level not the second.
- Location
- Roanoke VA
The MC fittings are metric, the prop valve and all 4 ends at the axles are standard. The MC uses bubble flares and has two different size fittings but use the same 3/16 line
souske
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- The land of competition
the prop. Valve is the gold colored block within 6" of the master
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
That plier style one Jeff linked looks pretty nice.
I have bought two flaring kits. The first was the one from the plumbing aisle in home depot, works great, does the job, just has no double flaring buttons.
The second was the HF kit. It SUCKED. The knurling in the bars was so weak (go go chinese metallurgy...) that it didn't hold the tube. Fortunately, it came with fairly good flaring buttons, so I simply threw everything out except those and the plastic case and put my original home depot flaring bars and yoke in it.
I have bought two flaring kits. The first was the one from the plumbing aisle in home depot, works great, does the job, just has no double flaring buttons.
The second was the HF kit. It SUCKED. The knurling in the bars was so weak (go go chinese metallurgy...) that it didn't hold the tube. Fortunately, it came with fairly good flaring buttons, so I simply threw everything out except those and the plastic case and put my original home depot flaring bars and yoke in it.
FordGuy
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- San Clemente, CA
It was mentioned earlier, lube the flair well, I have found the drill oil works great.
