So it turns out i did bench bled the MC when i put it in, or atleast my dad remembers doing it... Also i jacked up the front and back to see if it's the prop valve but i couldn't turn them by hand and i'm running 35s so i've got lots of leaverage. I am now stumped. today i'm going to check the pads and work on my e-brake more. Was my jeep supposed to be running when i did the test cause i didn't start it...
Booster and rear disks not working well...
- Thread starter nochance9
- Start date
Bump.
I have recently bled my brakes again but still no change in performance, i was reading somewhere that you can remove the rubber seal that goes on the prop. plunger and it will give you even flow between front and back.... Is this advisable? I'm going to Moab this weekend and wouldn't mind a little boost in braking power...
Also i don't have my vac bottle in right now while i finnish my bumper, could that affect my braking at all? TIN guys
I have recently bled my brakes again but still no change in performance, i was reading somewhere that you can remove the rubber seal that goes on the prop. plunger and it will give you even flow between front and back.... Is this advisable? I'm going to Moab this weekend and wouldn't mind a little boost in braking power...
Also i don't have my vac bottle in right now while i finnish my bumper, could that affect my braking at all? TIN guys
joe_peters
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Grants Pass, OryGun
Someone on here reported better performance after repairing the vacuum reservoir, but I don't remember the details of that poster's situation.
Check this article and test the booster:
http://www.ehow.com/how-does_4829365_testing-procedure-brake-boosters.html
Check this article and test the booster:
http://www.ehow.com/how-does_4829365_testing-procedure-brake-boosters.html
Muddy Beast
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- WA
Well if you don't have a vacuum bottle...how are you keeping a vacuum within the car? I doubt that's it...but I suppose it's possible.
I still say bleed the MC, just bleed it by using the lines that come out of the MC.
~Scott
I still say bleed the MC, just bleed it by using the lines that come out of the MC.
~Scott
spinnerdog
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- sj ca
For E-brake cables try Control Cables in southern calif. They make all E-brake cables, and right the first time (562) 949-0455
Would i still get good petal feel if my MC needed to be bled? Cause when the engine is off i can pump the petal to be rock solid...
That's a useful link. When it says to remove the one way valve does it just mean to pinch off the hose from the intake manni and remove the other side from the booster? Is the diagphram in that little piece on the end that attaches to the booster?
Any idea on price? Cause i really like the idea of brand new cables, but i'm not rich either haha.
joe_peters
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Grants Pass, OryGun
Here is a photo of the 90 check valve from rockauto.com:
RAYBESTOS Part # CV89000
{Professional Grade}
It simply pushes into the grommet.
If you have a HARD pedal, you don't have air. Air compresses, fluids do not.
When you get in the vehicle, engine off, pump the pedal about 4 times and then hold it. Start the engine and the pedal should drop about 1"; if it doesn't there is a booster problem.
RAYBESTOS Part # CV89000
It simply pushes into the grommet.
If you have a HARD pedal, you don't have air. Air compresses, fluids do not.
When you get in the vehicle, engine off, pump the pedal about 4 times and then hold it. Start the engine and the pedal should drop about 1"; if it doesn't there is a booster problem.
Ok, so i just checked my booster and vac hoses. Everything is good according to the tests. One way valve is good.... Only test that revealed anything was when i pumped it up and then started it my petal went straight to the floor... My petal hits the firewall and can't go any further. Does that mean i should take out the spacers i put in between the firewall and the booster?
joe_peters
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Grants Pass, OryGun
Wow, you must of had a look on your face when that happened! :gee:
Ok, you may still have air in there OR too much spacer.
Here is a link to the ZJ brake upgrade in JP Magazine, see if that helps.
http://www.jpmagazine.com/techartic...0_cheap_jeep_brake_system_upgrades/index.html
joe_peters
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Grants Pass, OryGun
Once you have the spacers right, do another bleed of the system so that it will be done with full piston travel.
I hope that takes care of it and you finally get to start stopping! (bad pun intended)
Good luck.
Took out all my spacers today and HOLY CRAP did it make a difference! 
Everything felt like i thought it should have. Still going to re-bleed my brakes like Joe suggested because i obviously didn't have full plunger travel. But even without the re-bleed it stops ten times better than it did before. I'm so happy i can't even control myself haha. I was pretty pissed when i did that whole swap and nothing really happened. Swaped the pads, nothing happened. Bled the system twice over, nnothing happened. But now it's ten times better! And just on time for moab on friday! 
Thanks for your help guys!
Everything felt like i thought it should have. Still going to re-bleed my brakes like Joe suggested because i obviously didn't have full plunger travel. But even without the re-bleed it stops ten times better than it did before. I'm so happy i can't even control myself haha. I was pretty pissed when i did that whole swap and nothing really happened. Swaped the pads, nothing happened. Bled the system twice over, nnothing happened. But now it's ten times better! And just on time for moab on friday! Thanks for your help guys!
