??? Best Lubricants ??? Mobil 1, Cheveron, Redline, Valvoline, Quaker State etc.

If I change my oil, it's with the bulk stuff we keep in the shop. For bearings I use Royal Purple synthetic grease.

I do run Royal Purple gun oil in my weapons, however. ;)
 
From billavisat on Pirate4x4:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Oiling/#choosingoil

.....reading an oil's specification, examining the formulation, pouring over the list of additives, arguing over the brand or type (Synthetic or Dino) - none of these things will actually determine how an oil will perform in any particular application. Only laboratory testing, dyno testing, and real-world testing can determine this.

Oil is oil, keep it fresh, and keep it clean, and whatever is on sale will do the job.
 
Tim_MN said:
From billavisat on Pirate4x4:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Oiling/#choosingoil

.....reading an oil's specification, examining the formulation, pouring over the list of additives, arguing over the brand or type (Synthetic or Dino) - none of these things will actually determine how an oil will perform in any particular application. Only laboratory testing, dyno testing, and real-world testing can determine this.

Oil is oil, keep it fresh, and keep it clean, and whatever is on sale will do the job.
Click to expand...
x2 on the testing

www.oillab.com
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

Take your pick.
 
XJRunner said:
than what was it? Mobil 1 doesnt have the zddp flat tappets need. it even says on the bottle for newer roller engines.
Click to expand...

Thats what additives are for!
 
why spend an arm and a leg for mobil 1 than have to put in an additive? Castrol is a great oil and all my 89 Renix needs, hell we broke my cam in with it, no break in additive.
 
It really depends on how you run the engine. Something that just commutes on the highway can probably get away with anything but something that revs past 3k a fair bit will want a oil with more friction modifiers. Weight is also important--a lot of people like to run heavier oils but generally speaking the lighter oils will flow through the engine better and therefore provide better overall lubrication than a heavier oil that doesn't. Unless you need to solve a very specific problem, you should use the weight that is specified in the manual.

I use Rotella T-5 10w30 in both of my older cars and they both run noticeably better with it. It's a heavy duty engine oil that has more friction modifiers, and is the correct weight. The engines make less noise and they 'feel' better, and the flat tappet lifters will last longer with it. For filters I use Wix or NAPA Gold (Wix relabeled).

I would not run long oil change intervals unless the manual called for it. Long interval engines are designed for long intervals, short interval engines are not designed for them. Having said that, I drive less than 3k miles per year and I only change it once a year or when it hits 3k miles or when the oil gets dirty, whichever comes first.
 
I race and rev the crap out of my engine, still runs like a champ, provided it only has 30k on it since a .060 rebuild with a comp cam but it still is a power house for a non stroker
 
What additives do you guys use with zddp in it. A other question does anybody know anything about BG's MOA that they sell at NAPA?
 
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