bedcage

Running without a rear hatch would create a vacuum inside the back of the Jeep, that's why I would recommend making a firewall behind the seats to seal off the cab if you're going to run with out a hatch.
 
As rare as I get to play in mine Im not to concerned about it as long I do get the tubing done up and installed. But I had already planned on pumpers, and also Im building a GPS mount for my dash, as well as an intercom system
 
As rare as I get to play in mine Im not to concerned about it as long I do get the tubing done up and installed. But I had already planned on pumpers, and also Im building a GPS mount for my dash, as well as an intercom system

LOL at 'I don't get to play enough to worry about it, yet I'm going to shell out for pumpers and GPS and an intercom.'

Seat time.

The hatch doesn't do anything. The roof does A LOT for structural rigidity.

I'm not sure I believe this anymore, because I had mad cracking in the upper hatch area corners on a hatch-less, side window-less, two door rock crawler/DD after less than two years.
 
LOL at 'I don't get to play enough to worry about it, yet I'm going to shell out for pumpers and GPS and an intercom.'

Seat time.

Well I am building my Jeep if you havent noticed... between work and school there is no time to go play.
 
LOL at 'I don't get to play enough to worry about it, yet I'm going to shell out for pumpers and GPS and an intercom.'

Seat time.

I haven't driven my truck more than 10 miles since the Baja 1000. I just put glass fenders (painted) and 35" BAjas on it. I also just picked up some cut and turned beams and extended radius arms for it.......when I DO take it out, I'll be happy with what has been done and money that was spent.
 
BEDCAGEFORNAXJA.jpg


Remember when building structure triangle's are stronger than squares and when you map out your tube placement "try" to have no dead tube intersections you'll always have a some but the less the better think about how the force's will travel though the tube's. Just my 2 cents.
 
i dont run a hatch on my 4 door, and i get some exhaust fumes inside if i dont keep the windows down, only below 40mph or so though. of course what's the point of having the windows up if there's no hatch :D not many problems with dust coming in, but i havent been behind anyone kicking up alot of dust and my stock gears keep me out of the silt beds so who knows.
 
Remember when building structure triangle's are stronger than squares and when you map out your tube placement "try" to have no dead tube intersections you'll always have a some but the less the better think about how the force's will travel though the tube's. Just my 2 cents.

Yeah I planned on moving the tubes to all end at a joint or another tube, thats what I meant by some of the tubes being to long and not meeting up right because my computer here isnt big enough to run the program, I actually entered all the numbers to meet right but it put them in like that. I wasnt sure whether to angle the bars or not on something like that, thanks for the corrections Ibeam
 
i think both your original, and ibeam's got waaay too many kickers in the wheel cage, you just dont need that much. it's not the backbone of the truck.

at bare minimum, make it out of smaller OD tubing, theres no bends in em, so you just need smaller hole saws for yer nacher.


...armchair quarterbacking over! im off to go buy some DOM!
 
hm, that is a lot of tubing back there, did I miss why you aren't concentrating on the cab first, then building off of that? It will be much harder to properly box in the cab once all that is welded into place(unless you plan on cutting off the roof to weld the a-pillars).
good luck, looks like fun:).
 
Doing back first because the floorboards arnt the best in the front and dont want to get into that mess just yet, and cant set the jeep out long enough to do the floor. The back tubes I can do a little at a time until its done, putting bars in so I got a tire carrier, jack mount, and so I can mount 5 points and cruise more or less hatchless without pulling a twisty turny cracky on the unibody
 
any progress?
on the last sketch, your b-pilla has some head knockers, hope your planning on a helmet, OR at bare minimum, you should move it back 6-8 inches behind the sheet metal b pillar .... your a-pillar WILL collapse in a roll, theres no point ruining the dd-ability of the truck to get a little more strength at the B, imho. you could also do another bar from the b pillar bend node, backwards diagonally?

AND, as skullvarian has pointed out, your not gonna be able to drop the cage for welding the top. that combined with the warm cookie floor's, leads me to recommend you start this kind of a project on a proper vehicle, one without a bunch of negatives before you even start....
 
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