My TPS volatge was wandering like yours before I fixed the last of my ground wire problems. A noisy, wearing out, at the end of its life TPS can also do that. It has to be the TPS, The wire or connectors, or the ground for that idle voltage to wander, unless the supply volatge to the TPS is wandering, but that would also likely be caused by loose dirty connector pins.
That data on the old TPS sounds VERY good. Reinstall it and see if it does not solve the last of your problems, or at least change the problem, which might help the diagnosis work.
On second thought, I just looked at the other data you posted on the other TPS, they are nearly identical, and look very good.
I would focus on the wiring harness, harness connector pins (the female pins can be tightened and both M/F pins can be cleaned) and the ground. Have you checked the ground, that is between pin B on the harness and the battery negative post cable, while wiggling the wires of the harness all around the engine and the ground wires on the block and firewall to see if the ground resitance is changing any. For instance there could be a nearly broken wire under the insulation somewhere. This technique would help find it, if it is there.
At some point the C-101 bulk head connector pins also may need to be checked, but for now I would stick with the above first. You can wiggle the C-101 connector while watching the TPS idle voltage! It is a 4" long black plastic connector on the firewall just above the Brake vacuum booster. It is reported to be a source of electrical continuity problems as well (I have not had the pleasure of that problem yet with mine, only read about it).
In conclusion, looks like enough data to prove the TPS is generaly OK, except for the possiblity of a noisy, drifting idle volatge signal, for that reason alone I would still try the spare again, and even at some point buy and try a new one, as the noise test is difficult to do, requires a special, old style analog volt/ohm meter, and the noise test is not really conclusive, that I know of.
Then work on the TPS connector pins. You might try some houshold ammonia and water. Ammonia is great at removing copper oxidation off connectors and is easy to wash off with water.
One thing is for sure, the drifting idle volatge is the source of the problem!!!! So you know what to focus on. Forget the ECU, it is OK and is not the problem.
mattbred said:
Well my high idle returned.. After-driving idle is 1200 RPM's and after shutting if off and restarting it is 900-1000 RPM's.
However, when it was idling at 1200, I unplugged the IAC, then restarted the engine, and it idled at 900-1000, so the IAC is NOT the contributing factor to the high-high idle. I still think it's either the TPS or the wiring to the TPS, or even the ECU.
I noticed something odd though. When cold, I had my TPS set for 0.79 volts, ok, yet after hours of driving, we come back and I check it and it's more around 0.76 - 0.77 volts, with engine OFF ignition ON. hm.
I could order a TPS from that innernet site and see if it fixes the problem. If it doesn't, then I have NO idea what the hell.
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Edit:
Loose unmounted, Old TPS, ohmmeter prods going right into TPS connectors
B to C - 2.175k ohms at Idle
A to B - 4.55k ohms at idle
A to C - 6.71k ohms at Idle
Loose unmounted, Old TPS, ohmmeter prods going right into TPS connectors
B to C - 6.8k ohms at WOT
A to B - 4.55k ohms at WOT
A to C - 2.09k ohms at WOT