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atlas 4 speed

True but it can do some amazing things in the deeper stuff to pack it down without digging down.

It would be nice to have another option to drop into once stuck. I guess I was referring to the other 10% of snow wheeling.
it does depend on the snow but i have found most times than not, slow is the way to go!
Depends in the snow.... some snow requires lots of skinny and others dont...
this is correct
why the hell would you use a 10-1 low range in the snow, wheel spin is key for 90% of snow wheeling

Not true maybe in the sand but not snow.
 
Most of them have 4 cylinders making under 100 hp. We have twice the usable power with a 4.0.

Any deep snow I've been in has required wheel speed every time. You have to "ram" the next section of unbroken snow in order to create tracks.


Slow crawl air down to nothing and take your time. wider track means more flotation most snow here with 33s i air down and dont drag the diffs. the jeep only sinks down like 3 or 4 inches when i get out i sink deeper most times. but like Goatman said it all depends on the conditions of the snow
 
I don't spin my tires in snow, and I've always out driven everyone else who does. Sure, I see the guys spinning, then I cruise up and pass them by modulating the throttle carefully and not spinning at all. The Toy guys have very little power, which helps. The Toy guys also have stick shifts, and I learned it's good to have a stick in the snow since you can feel the tires breaking loose and can pick a little higher gear and let the engine lug to keep from breaking the tires loose.

I know we have different experiences, and live in different places. My personal experience is higher gears and less throttle works wonders in the snow. Keeping the tracks shallower and dragging your diffs less is important, spinning a lot just digs the tracks deeper and drags the diffs more. If breaking new trail, use some momentum but stop as soon as you feel much tire slip to keep from digging the tracks too deep. I've pushed snow breaking trail piled over the top of my bumper and spun the tires as little as possible.

This ^ and air down as much as you possibly can, always has worked for me. The weight of the rig can also play a big roll in staying on top of the snow or digging in too deep.
 
Do you guys snow wheel on flat ground or do you actually encounter hills and ledges?
 
Sierra nevada mountains..........lots of hills!!!!
 
Snow wheeling around here in the northeast doesnt happen unless you have wheel speed. None of us have had luck "crawling" the snow. I dont even touch my low low range in the snow with my StaK. I've got a 4.0/auto and love the gear selections; 1:1, 3:1, and 5.44:1. I've never felt the need for anything deeper then 5.44:1 with an auto, as it is it seems too deep sometimes. I can wheel pretty much everything in 3:1 but its great to have the 5.44:1 for the rocks or something technical when speed is not needed. My buddy has a 4.0/stick with a 4spd Atlas, its the 8:1 version. He pretty much only uses the 8:1 in heavy rock and even then sometimes it seems a little too deep.
 
want to know if anyone has any pics of an install, where you put the planetary shifter, what shifters you went with cable or standard?
what ratio you bought and how it works with your auto or manual.


I have one! I went with the standard shifters and put the planetary shifter right in front of the twin sticks. I have the 2.72/3.8/10.34 one, but may have done the 4.3 if it were available at the time.

I did not take pics of the install, but it was pretty painless. The only adjustments were cutting the floor board for the shifters and hammering the tunnel out a little wider where one of the upper corners was contacting. It only needed to move about an inch.

I have a manual and absolutely love it. I thought the 10.34 would be practically novelty, but I use it quite often. Most notably for mounting large obstacles where momentum is not a factor, and for difficult downhill stuff. Honestly, if I had an auto, I doubt I would have done it. It doesn't seem like it would have been as beneficial, but I could be wrong.

I'll post a pic of the sticks as soon as I get a chance.
 
DSC00377_zps71757b45.jpg


There it is. The knobs had the low / neutral / high marks on them originally, but that wore off pretty fast. I have somehow managed to remember what position is what all these years....somehow. :)
 
Here it is in action. At idle in low-low and first gear. Freaking love it. :cheers:

If you do one of the 10:1 or 11:1 cases with an auto, give us an update sometime and let us know if you end up using the low low much. I am curious if it would be useful.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZGaOsi1ulJ4

Very nice! Do you have any pics of shifter placement? Also what shifters did u go with?
 
If you do one of the 10:1 or 11:1 cases with an auto, give us an update sometime and let us know if you end up using the low low much. I am curious if it would be useful.
here is my friends 01 with an aw4 and an atlas 4 speed.
View My Video
It is very nice and definitley useful
 
Im the buddy foxwar was referring too. Iv got the 8 to 1 and love it. Click on the "my rig" in my sig to find my build thread with pics. Id post them my self but im on my phone and it would be a major pain in the ass.
 
here are some pics of where my shifters are located, and how I modified my floor to clock it up a bit. it only hangs down about an inch below the frame rails.

I didnt have the knob on the planetary but you can see it over by the passenger seat.

2011-09-25_18-16-20_737.jpg


I had to make a little hump for the shifter on top of the planetary. oh and make sure you locktite the bolt that holds the cable to the little arm on it, cause mine fell out and I had to cut it open again to get to it.

2011-09-25_16-26-05_938.jpg


heres where I cut the floor up to make some more room

2011-09-08_17-11-40_506.jpg


I ran the cable for the shifter through a small hole in the floor, and put a piece of garden hose on it to protect it from any sharp edges.

2011-09-17_18-48-09_281.jpg




It went pretty well considering I had never welded before. but if I was to do it again I would cut the whole tranny tunnel out and make it a removable panel.


I mostly use 3:1 but 8:1 is nice on real technical stuff. and its awesome that it will pull through light breaking in 8:1 1st, makes roll back on take off nonexistent.

if I had an auto I doubt I would have spent the money on this, but it seems you know what you want to do with it so good luck, and it really is an awesome piece of kit.
 
oh and I recommend doing some kind of support for it. I had a really badly broken bell housing and im pretty sure the atlas caused it. I got the ring from roark, but I havent been too happy with it. it keeps falling off. and the bolts he supply's with it only engage 2-3 threads. so get longer ones if you do get it.
 
oh and I recommend doing some kind of support for it. I had a really badly broken bell housing and im pretty sure the atlas caused it. I got the ring from roark, but I havent been too happy with it. it keeps falling off. and the bolts he supply's with it only engage 2-3 threads. so get longer ones if you do get it.

That is something to think about. I had intended on doing something but still haven't. I have had mine in for 4 and a half years now with no issue and no support...but that does not mean it is not going to break something tomorrow :shhh:

It is 125lbs, which I think is around 50 lbs heavier than the 231.
 
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