anyone know part#/where to buy: AW4 transm dipstick sections o-ring ?

[MikeESoc2]

Got significant leaks dripping from the AW4 in my '87 XJ Limited (started a few weeks after I poured a can of SeaFoam TransTune in)... looks like might be the transmission pan gasket (I hope) ... at 314K miles I never changed the pan gasket nor filter screen ... transmission works great with simple drain-plug fluid changes over the years (~ every 12,000 miles) ... and was not leaking (for last 12 years) until I poured in the can of TransTune last month.

Anyone know what o-ring part# is (where to buy) that seals the top+bottom sections of the AW4 dipstick tubes ?

I've been searching and reading that the dipstick tube sections are possibly 1 of the nasty items during the AW4 trans-pan gasket change, so I want to have the o-ring before I start the gasket-change.

Of all the info that I have found via and google searches, this is the closest description of the o-ring that I have found:

http://www.ilovejeeps.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17510
"...
If you can't get the tubes apart you can remove the bolt holding the upper tube from the front of the dustcover and pull/twist the entire assembly out from the bottom.
My dipstick tube was rotted together so I had to heat it up. Propane will work.
The replacement O-ring is 3/8 ID x 7/16 OD x 1/16 THK -clean the tube sections so it can slide together tight and use some silicone grease on both sides of the O-ring for next time.
..."

Also: I'm thinking of using the Felpro TOS18685 for the AW4 pan gasket:
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?A=FPGTOS18685_0147681907&An=599001+101987+50038+2038004
".... A/Trans Pan Gasket
Product Line: FEL-PRO Gaskets
Part Number: FPG TOS18685
Price: Price Unit: : 8.99 Each
Features & Benefits FelCoPrene Premium Synthetic Rubber Material.; Exceptional Surface Conformability.; Increased Torque Retention. ..."

 

[Talyn]

You don't need a gasket for the pan on the aw4. Just use RTV.

Best bet on the o-ring is to take it down to your local parts store and find one that matches. They usually have an assortment behind the counter.

 

[xjtrailrider]

I use a new gasket for the pan, Advance Auto sells a nice gasket/filter set for $25 bucks.

As for the "O" ring, carefully slide the old one off and go to your local hardware or auto parts store and match it up. "O" rings are sold by I.D/O.D./thickness and will have a 3 digit number for it. Most hardware stores will have a chart you can match the size up with by laying the old "O" ring over the one on the chart.

Use some vasoline to lubricate it with for installation. The dipstick "O" ring is just a plain old "Buna rubber" "O" ring.

 

[xjtrailrider]

I forgot to add that the best way to separate the tube from the pan is to spray the jointed area with WD-40 and let it soak for a few minutes. Leave the dipstick tube attached at the bell housing and just give the pan a good yank after the bolts are all removed. It will pop off.

 

[joe_peters]

As the others have said, OD/ID/thickness and most auto parts stores can fix you up.

Otherwise, you will have to go to the dealer. The 87-90 parts catalog lists J321 2885 O-RING, Oil Indicator Tube, but the part number has likely changed over the years.

Also, source of last resort, Toyota used the AW4 and they might have the O-ring.

 

[kastein]

You don't need a gasket for the pan on the aw4. Just use RTV.

Best bet on the o-ring is to take it down to your local parts store and find one that matches. They usually have an assortment behind the counter.

I hate using RTV on something like that because scraping it off (especially between the bellhousing and the front of the transmission proper) is a pain in the butt. Scraping it off the pan edges is also a pain in the butt, goes best with a BRASS wire wheel and a drill, plus brake cleaner. I much prefer a good nitrile gasket...

Plus, if you use a bit too much RTV (I have a tendency to do so) some will squeeze out the edge and if enough does so it'll separate and float around in the pan till it gets sucked up and plugs the intake strainer on the filter.

BTW, most parts stores computers (at the very least AAP and NAPA) have the XJ's transmission spec wrong, and don't realize that the automatic used on the I4 and V6 (only available 84-86) plus the 3-speed auto on 87-up and the trans on the I6 w/ 4-speed (AW-4) are different. They don't even have the AW-4 mentioned in the NAPA system; the front/rear seal specs are the only ones wrong in the AAP system. If you need a filter/gasket combo for the AW-4 from NAPA, ask specifically for an ATP B112 (will run you $45 or so) rather than the kit their computer comes up with. I'd say go to AAP though, apparently their AW-4 gasket/filter set is way cheaper. Or - if you don't need it in a hurry, go through rockauto, make sure you select the one that has a funny looking metal filter with 4 bolt holes and a square pickup hole rather than the mostly-square fibrous filter.

As for o-rings... pick whatever fits, made from buna-n/nitrile. Twisting the pan back and forth while pulling may help and won't bend things as much as just yanking on it.

 

[5-90]

I don't like using RTV on "maintenance items" - too much of a pain to clean off. Axle covers get paper gaskets, tranny pan gets a cork gasket. Drain plugs get the threads cleaned and a light coat of RTV or PTFE paste - keeps them from seizing. Use brass pipe plugs in the axle covers - they won't seize, even if you put them in dry.

You should have pulled the pan on the AW4 at least the first time - to clean the pan, magnet, and screen. Then, probably pull it every third or fourth fluid change to keep an eye on the magnet, and refresh the gasket. The "Trans-Tune" you used is probably a heavy-duty detergent, and it exposed a leak by clearing the sludge off of it (this is usually what happens. You'd have had a leak anyhow, but it was clogged up with crud. By cleaning the crud out, you've exposed the leak. It didn't "create" a leak on you.) Pulling the pan every 3-4 changes and changing the gasket prevents this - you don't usually need to change the "filter," since it's really just a "strainer." Spray it down with carburettor cleaner and put it back to work.

I've had good luck with those tubes by wiping them down with a clean rag and carburettor cleaner/acetone/denatured alcohol/whatever, and then painting the thing with PTFE paste. I don't recommend hardware store O-rings if you look for a replacement, they're usually not petroleum resistant (parts houses usually carry Buna-N or Viton, which is petroleum-resistant. You don't want your O-rings to dissolve on you...)

 

[MikeESoc2]

thanks for the tip "... the best way to separate the tube from the pan is to spray the jointed area with WD-40 and let it soak for a few minutes. Leave the dipstick tube attached at the bell housing and just give the pan a good yank after the bolts are all removed. It will pop off. ...".

I haven't seen that suggestion anywhere else... now that you say it, it makes a lot of sense (similar to using PB Blaster before trying to unbolt rusted fasteners).

And I'm gonna try to go the dealer this week and see if Chrysler lists a cross-reference to that stated 87-90 parts catalog # J321 2885 O-RING (I usually go to the Warnock dealership on Rt10 in NJ... the guys in that parts dept are usually helpful... and if necessary maybe I'll call the Sansone dealership on Rt9 in NJ... they have also been helpful in the past).

Thanks to all for the feedback... it is much appreciated... I feel better about going after this with the extra info.

 

[kastein]

according to mopardiscountparts' search, MSRP is one dollar on that O-ring, so you shouldn't get charged more than a couple bucks.

I'd be incensed about the ~800% markup, but it's a dollar... I can stand parting with some pocket change.

 

[MikeESoc2]

re: "... The "Trans-Tune" you used is probably a heavy-duty detergent, and it exposed a leak by clearing the sludge off of it (this is usually what happens. You'd have had a leak anyhow, but it was clogged up with crud. By cleaning the crud out, you've exposed the leak. It didn't "create" a leak on you.) ..."

Yes,
the SeaFoam Trans-Tune objective is to thoroughy clean (their web-site says that)... and also yes, at this point it looks like I should have changed the pan gasket at some time over the past ~ 12 years (and ~ 202K miles that I have owned the '87)... thing is (no, not an excuse) every once in a while I re-learn the hard way "if it's not broke don't fix it", and my '87XJ's AW4 has been working just fine over the past 12 years (currently working excellent) ... as I mentioned, with the ~ every 12,000 miles drain-3-quarts thru the drain-hole method where I would consistently use 3 quarts Castrol DexMerc to replace...

... however, this time last weekend (due to the leaks that started after the Trans-Tune) I switched over to Valvoline MaxLife DexMerc (states it has "seal conditioners" in it) and drained twice... that is: to attempt to get a significant % of the Trans-Tune out of the tranny... by pen-n-paper calculations: 1st drain+refill = ~ 37% new fluid (3 qts of total ~ 8 qts fill); after driving ~ 7 miles (including short trip at highway speed) then immediate-after 2nd drain+refill accumulated to ~ 61% new fluid in the tranny... however since last weekend the drips have reduced only slightly.

My brother points out that the Valvoline MaxLife DexMerc is 100% synthetic (compared to the Castrol Dex/Merc that I have been using for years) and that maybe (just maybe) now the drips have somewhat to do with the Valvoline MaxLife being 100% synthetic (and yes, as mentioned, the crud-removal that happened via TransTune use).

Regardless, the way the situatioin now feels to me is that going for the pan gasket change is the next reasonable thing to do - and I do hope that that solves the significant leaks that currently are all under the pan.

 

[5-90]

If you're looking at "crud removal" leaks, consider doing an input and output seal sometime in the near future as well. You shouldn't lose the shift shaft seals (which is good - they're a pain to replace) and the front pump housing-to-transmission case O-ring is usually safe (it's a splash seal,) but the input and output seals often let go when the crud gets removed as well...

 

[MikeESoc2]

FYI: today Monday 02/01/2010 I bought the o-ring at the dealer.

The o-ring color is light-green
(for whatever reason I assumed it would be black... like a plumbing faucet washer),
and, the o-ring thickness looks to be very light-duty.

Also: the Chrysler older part# J321 2885
(which shows as available via mopardiscountparts.com for MSRP $1)
has been superceeded by Chrysler part# 5210 7671 (MSRP price $3.10).

Again: thank-you to everyone for the info...
... me and my brother will most likely be changing the trans-pan gasket & filter this coming weekend.

 

[xjtrailrider]

I've been using the hardware store el-cheapo "O" rings for the dipstick tube for years but if the $3 piece of rubber gives you comfort, works for meeace: