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Any tricks for new balancer install?

My "GRAYWERKS" by ATP balancer #102005 came in, looks to be well made and painted black. Made in China.
I'll let ya know how it goes! b5
 
Well this thing is failing quicker than I could get to fixing so I put the Jeep in the shop today. They just called and said the ATP balancer won't fit? (Same as the Doorman part, too small.) They are going to try a Doorman from local parts house. I'll let ya know how that goes! :(
 
good to hear! I wonder if the crank snout changed size over the years? I don't see why it would have but you never know :dunno:
 
Dorman part 594-018 looks and fit just as factory, The ADP part had a much smaller bevel where it starts to fit on the end of the crank. (?)
 
Yours is probably done by now, but for future reference learned the hard way from changing the H.B. on my '89.

1) All the after market H.B.s I could find came out of the same factory in China. The Dorman one came with parts of the of the flange broken off.

2) I bought a genuine factory replacement.
BUT our old 4.0's have an "oil slinger" behind the H.B., so I had the new H.B. shortened to match the original.

F.Y.I. Most of the threads in the crank of my '89 were stripped out from a previous rebuild making it impossible to use a bolt to "pull" the H.B. onto the crank.

~~ What I ended up doing was using a bottom tap to get a couple more threads, buying a long, fully threaded, grade 8 bolt and permanently J.B. Welding the bolt in the crank, cutting of the head off and using stacked nuts and greased washers to "push" the H.B. home. P.S. I have a 4" "stud" sticking out the end of the crank that can't be removed. ~~

3) In the future, to save the threads in the crank, I'd get a long bolt, nuts and greased washers for installation remove it and replace with the original crank bolt hold the H.B. without worrying about stripping the threads.
 
~~ What I ended up doing was using a bottom tap to get a couple more threads, buying a long, fully threaded, grade 8 bolt and permanently J.B. Welding the bolt in the crank, cutting of the head off and using stacked nuts and greased washers to "push" the H.B. home. P.S. I have a 4" "stud" sticking out the end of the crank that can't be removed. ~~

FYI Don't do this ^
 
What would our Cherokees be without a few "mysteries" from P.O.s . . .

I could chop it off if I ever sell it, but the next guy might have a problem if the H.B. even needs to be put back on.

P.S.
My fix was a desperate attempt to fix a problem with the materials at hand.
It worked for me. I can still R & R the H.B. The crank may need to replaced.
The engine was rebuilt by the P.O., the car has 185,000 miles of (mostly) neglect.
 
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