Another HP D44 build

[traitor5150]

O ok I thought the camber was in the inner c guess not.

 

[rehab]

If you want to use the small bearing spindles, you have to use chevy knuckles.
The C's are all the same, so it doesnt matter what you use.

i remember reading somewhere that some fords had 2 degrees of camber built into their inner c's??

 

[traitor5150]

Bob at TNT told me to run 5 Degrees of pinon angle same as stock and -5 caster same as ford stock. Said this is the best way to run it for my lift about 6 1/2 in with 35's. I see others running arond 13 pinion angle and more than 5 caster between 5.5 and 7. Where the best place to be from experiance???? Also anyone run ino issues with the tierod hitting the steering box/pitman under full compression looks like it could get clsoe unless there is alot of bumpstop... Im think im going to run crossover steering for this reason..

 

[TNT]

I beleive its more like 8 degrees at the pinion and 5-6 degrees of caster.

Stock pinion angle setting will be too low.

 

[Prepmech]

I'm set at 13 degrees for my pinion angle, and 6.5 degrees of caster, running 6.5" lift.

My pinion points just above the centerline of my front driveshaft, which is the correct angle for a front CV driveshaft (you want your pinion pointing just below the centerline of the driveshaft in the rear).

5-8 degrees of caster is the stock setting for cherokees.

This seems to be what most others are running too:
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=52219&highlight=dana+44+tech

Mock everything up and make sure it looks good before you weld everything up.

I am also running the TnT truss.

It sounds like Bob at TnT may be giving you measurments from another reference point. Although, that is 10 degrees seperation between pinion angle and caster, I am only running 6.5 degrees of seperation and everything is working out.

 

[traitor5150]

It would seem to me at least, that you want yor axle side U joint to have some range of motion because if it's a straigt shot it will wear out fast because none of the needle bearing will have any range of motion so they will wear unevenly.. Am I correct in thinking this way or is this not feasable????

 

[Prepmech]

It would seem to me at least, that you want yor axle side U joint to have some range of motion because if it's a straigt shot it will wear out fast because none of the needle bearing will have any range of motion so they will wear unevenly.. Am I correct in thinking this way or is this not feasable????

You want about one degree of difference between the pinion angle and drive shaft angle. Anything too much more than that will give you vibrations.

If you ran it with more than one degree of seperation, you would just have to unlock your hubs before driving at higher speeds. The vibrations would wear out the u-joints faster then them not being stressed evenly.

 

[Prepmech]

Ok so waggy width it is but what about the trackbar should I do everything then mount it up and mark where to put the trackbar?? Has anyone here seen the tnt brace in person

Offset does matter if you are using the TnT brace with the mounts already on it. There is no way to adjust the horizontal location of the pinion. Your axle will be centered, but one of your wheels will stick out more than the other. You can try to compensate for it by adjusting your track-bar length, but then your control arms will be in a bind.

Just making sure that if you are planning on going Waggy width you plan on making your own control arm mounts, and spring perches.

 

[traitor5150]

I have the truss and everything now. Stock xj width WMS is 60 in correct? ANd the ford full width is 67. So If I cut 2 off each side will take me to 63in in the front then If I run some 5x4.5 to 5x5.5 1.25 thick wheel adapters in the back that will make the back 62.5 that should be perfect...Did eveyone else cit 2.5 ?? I dont think that extra 1 in is going to matter but thats my thinking...

 

[adamusmc2002]

Here are a few pictures of mine:

If you have any questions feel free to PM me.

Tom

Very nice Tom!!